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Discussion Starter #1
On the second story...

It seems as though it would have 2 points of attachment to the rest of the house. The ledger boards, and also should be attached to the foundation with posts around any 2nd floor balconies.

What's the first step? Attach the ledger boards?
 

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Where's your prints John, this is nothing more than a floor plan. Prints will start with a foundation plan, beam specs and locations. That'll determine what walls are designed to be load bearing. Also will show floor joists sizes and direction, post locations if called for, etc. Not enough information here. That shouldn't be a difficult house to frame, but need more info.
Mike Hawkins
 

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Where's your prints John, this is nothing more than a floor plan. Prints will start with a foundation plan, beam specs and locations. That'll determine what walls are designed to be load bearing. Also will show floor joists sizes and direction, post locations if called for, etc. Not enough information here. That shouldn't be a difficult house to frame, but need more info.
Mike Hawkins
The prints aren't ready yet.
 

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Usually there is a beam in the middle and the floor joists attach or sit on the beam. Search "how to frame a floor".
Not sure but the recessed entrance looks like it has high ceiling. That is one factor that changes the framing and beam locations.
Second floor balcony is another tricky spot. If it's open, you must make the floor/wall water proof but water proofing adds layers that could take the floor level higher than the room floor. This is one thing you must not do. Also it is not a good idea to have a flush deck to the room floor. Deck should step down a bit for best flashing/water proofing.
This isn't kind of framing that novice should attempt. Balcony floor, example, must slope down as well. The rail posts also must be flashed/water proofed excellently.
 

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Usually there is a beam in the middle and the floor joists attach or sit on the beam. Search "how to frame a floor".
Not sure but the recessed entrance looks like it has high ceiling. That is one factor that changes the framing and beam locations.
Second floor balcony is another tricky spot. If it's open, you must make the floor/wall water proof but water proofing adds layers that could take the floor level higher than the room floor. This is one thing you must not do. Also it is not a good idea to have a flush deck to the room floor. Deck should step down a bit for best flashing/water proofing.
This isn't kind of framing that novice should attempt. Balcony floor, example, must slope down as well. The rail posts also must be flashed/water proofed excellently.

Is the beam what I referred to as a ledger board? It attached by it's long side to the concrete walls?


The first floor is 10' ceilings.
 

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Is the beam what I referred to as a ledger board? It attached by it's long side to the concrete walls?


The first floor is 10' ceilings.
Are you asking these questions so you know what to ask the framers when they frame this house?

A ledger board is not a beam... it's a ledger. It spans between the connections it has... usually no more then 16" o.c. to the wall.

You have a 46' deep house... you will need at a minimum 1 bearing line on interior, more likely 2. That is where the beams will be placed.

Still very curious about engineer statement about splicing a 60' ridge beam.
 

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Are you asking these questions so you know what to ask the framers when they frame this house?

A ledger board is not a beam... it's a ledger. It spans between the connections it has... usually no more then 16" o.c. to the wall.
I'm hiring help for this (obviously), but I'll be working along side them and don't want to seem completely ignorant. I see what a beam is after Googling it. They basically support the joists, right?

A purlin is a type of beam for a roof.
 

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I'm hiring help for this (obviously), but I'll be working along side them and don't want to seem completely ignorant. I see what a beam is after Googling it. They basically support the joists, right?

A purlin is a type of beam for a roof.
So you want to help frame your new house? That's awesome... but let the framers frame and maybe just ask "them" what you can help with.
 

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Your Framers will not expect you to know what a purloin is......
Because you won’t have to deal with one since yuo are using trusses. I can’t get your drawings to blow up enough to see them but can’t see any reason that you need to attach a ledger to the concrete walls anywhere. I’d wait for the plans.....and be SURE that you get a detailed plan for the floors that specifies joists, I joists, lvl, beam attachments, point loads if any for first floor, etc.
 

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This is not framing you can do with some helpers. You must look for experienced framers working for a construction company. I hope that is what you mean by helpers. Pros generally will not want home owner help. One is possible accidents on site. Walking on floor joists before decking is one common accident.


I don't know your situation and my responses have been over reactions.:smile:
 
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