I am seeing a lot off bucking out window and sliding foam board up against it. But on my addition I need to match existing layers on the house. Without making the windows look so different. If I’m able to cover the nail flange with the foam board I might have it figured out. Is this okay to do so?
Can ridgid foam overlap window nail flange?
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How thick is the flange? Can you rip out a small thickness out of the back of the foam to allow for the flange so the foam lays flat.
I have a 3/4” fiber? board on existing house with replacement windows And no sheathing. I’m trying to match that without the windows on addition looking completely different in depth and such. I already have sheathing on place on addition. With the extension of window on exterior of flange, laying foam board overt top off flange is the only way to make it a reasonable look. I could defy cut out for flange thickness on back off goam board If that would be okay
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You are supposed to pull the window to add the buck and put in a pan while you are there.
Are you sating that the rest of the windows were not bucked out?
correct. None off the windows are bucked out
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Then i guess you do them the same way.
It’s about the thickness of the wall to match. Nothing really to do with bucking windows out. I’m trimming out all windows. The whole house is getting Renewed
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Sorry, I don't get it.:wink2:
Haha. The title of The thread
If the whole house is getting renewed... I think you would be miles ahead to just pull the windows and buck them out 3/4" with a 1x2 laying flat around the perimeter of the rough opening, then put them back in. Then the foam butts up to the side of the 1x2. The foam surface should be your new WRB. Windows go on top of the WRB and get taped to the WRB.
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Yes you can overlap the flange with rigid polystyrene boards. The only concern is the thickness of your siding and whether it will stick way out past the window frame.
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You didn't show the position of the window on the house.
it’s in the pic? I have replacement windows that i installed years Ago in the entire house. The addition is getting new construction.
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OK, the problem I am having trouble with is the window pan wants to move water out to behind the siding. I don't know if you are planning on a window pan?
What if I was to just shave the back off foam board so it lays flush?
You can as long as window is flashed to the insul boards. Usually flashing is done to the install flanges over house wrap. Insul boards can't be used as a drainage plane because of the joints. People use tape but I disagree there since tape can fail. Your window pan will have to sit over the insul board. I just read that asphalt based adhesive tapes may not be compatible with some plastics. Butyl tapes are but costly. I would: use asphalt based ice dam shield - knowing I wouldn't mix incompatible materials. First put the insul boards and cut the opening along the rough opening. Then house wrap. Then shingles along the window sill frame for slope and use asphalt adhesive ice shield to make the fan and flash to the window and the house wrap.
If vinyl side, come back to ask about how to install j channels for least leaking. With vinyl, there is no not leaking.
If vinyl side, come back to ask about how to install j channels for least leaking. With vinyl, there is no not leaking.
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