[baliva1]

Hi,
I'm looking to remove every other 2x4 post on my screen porch. The porch dimentions are about 10x21. Along the 21 foot span there are 9 2x4 posts, arranged directly under the ceiling joists (2x6's) which are supported by double 2x4's. So there are 9 Joists as well (in between the ends). Spacing currently between the posts is 24", I'd like to make it 48" to make the porch more open. It seems to be over kill to me to have that many posts, but I dont want the thing falling off the house. Any help would be great!

Thanks, PB

 

[ARI001]

No, your porch looks to be framed the way one would frame an exterior wall. The way they are positioned under the joists they are picking up the load. Honestly for a 24" o.c. spacing they should be 2 x 6 studs. If you where to brace the roof you could cut out the stud wall and insert a dbl 2x8 girder. Then you would be able to space 4 x 4 posts 5' o.c. which would open your view up. Big job but possible.

 

[Thurman]

Another idea here: I have a deck on the back of my house that has a roof built over it such as the one you are showing. I didn't like the 2 x 4's so close together either as I have a nice back yard to view. I built a temporary wall to hold up the roof, removed all of the 2 x 4's and the headers. I then used LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) beams to replace the headers with 6 x6 post on each end of the 18' span. These calculations were done free by the local supplier I bought the beams and 6 x6's from. After installing the new 6 x6 corner post, setting the LVL beams on top of them and securing the 2 x 6's, in my case with those metal straps the are sort of diamond shaped, I removed the temp wall and had a nice clear view. I then used vinyl soffitt material to enclose the bottom of the roof to make it look better, and installed an outdoor ceiling fan. Worked for me, David :yes:

 

[Yoyizit]

Hi,
I'm looking to remove every other 2x4 post on my screen porch.

It might work, but with a zero safety factor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Factor_of_safety

 

[baliva1]

Thanks guys, glad I checked...I was about to bust out the sawzall. I had a lot more faith in the doubled up 2x4 than I should have.

 

[Gary in WA]

Could you post another picture of the outside, at the top of the wall.?

!. The horizontal member the roof rafters/ceiling joists are nailed to is called a rim joist. I'm looking to see why the rim joist (hence the pic.) is flush with the wall top plates on the inside. It should be sitting farther out on the wall, allowing the joists to bear 2" on the top plates.

2. 2x4 studs at 24" on center, supporting roof and ceiling, are allowed up to 10' high per code- UBC Table 23-IV-B. You are legal there.

3. I need the pictures as; 2-2x6's will span 5'5 on a building 20' wide. And yours is half that. But, you would double up the studs or use 4x4 (as ARI001 mentioned). You would need to double the 2x6 rims as well. Also adding a hanger to the joist without the stud under and lag bolting the headers together.

4. In the first pic. near the top plate joint, the rim wood grain changes, showing me two different pieces--- Cannot take that stud out.

Be safe, G

 

[ARI001]

Both 2 x 6 and 2 x 8 span are subject to ground snow loads. I erred on the side of caution when I suggested a 2 x 8. GBAR you are correct when you say a 2 x 4 will support roof and ceiling up to 10', however typically that wall framing is blocked and sheathed adding additional support. What you are referring to as a rim joist appears to be blocking to me based on the caulking (or liquid nails used as caulk) and change in grain patterns, however there is not truly enough information in the picture to tell for sure. Also just to let you know UBC codes where replaced with IRC codes in 2003. The LVL is a good idea as long as you protect it from the elements. On a side note baliva put that romex in conduit it is not rated for exposure.

 

[Scuba_Dave]

I'm betting those joists go onto the 2x4 (possibly thru to outside) top plates & the rim joist is just pieces cut & inserted - as blocking

 

[baliva1]

You are right Scuba, the joists go through to the other side to create about a 16" overhang on the outside, the blocking is cut to fit inbetween the joists and caulked.

 

[Scuba_Dave]

Each joist is supported bythe 2x4 underneath
If it was a solid beam rim joist - strong enough - you might have been able to remove some

Best option is probably a new beam under the joists