I can't see a 5/8" concrete floor lasting very long. But good luck.
Bud, you forgot to ask home much homeowner's insurance he has.Well you wouldn't use rebar.
And you also wouldn't want to just pour cement. It would never last.
The first thing you would do is to prepare the floor as if you were installing a stone or travertine tile.
Before you do that and get too far we need to know about your floor structure.
What size are the floor joists?
What is their spacing?
What is the unsupported span of the floor joists?
What is the species of the floor joists?
What are the floor joists covered with (sub floor material)?
How thick is the subfloor material?
How many layers are there?
There are pourable cement products made for this very purpose but there is more to it than just dumping some cement on the floor and staining it.
Be glad to help if you will provide the above information.
Here we go again!!!!I'm looking for help not negative info and I think so's, I want facts if it isn't do-able tell me and give me the reason why so I know not to do it
I would like to pour 3/4 concrete or something like it on my first floor much like to original poster. The total square footage to cover would be about 150s.f. give or take. It is just the kitchen and a little offshoot underneath the wood stove. (I've attached a photo - the OSB, which is painted red in the photo, is what would be covered)
Bud Cline seems to know how to do it and I would like to know if I can, and how to do so.
Here are the answers to your questions that you posed to the original poster.
What size are the floor joists? 2x10
What is their spacing? 16 " O.C.
What is the unsupported span of the floor joists? 11' 2" with solid 2x10 blocking right in the middle of the span all the way across the floor if that matters
What is the species of the floor joists? I believe they are spruce but I am not 100% on that
What are the floor joists covered with (sub floor material)? Advantech OSB
How thick is the subfloor material? 3/4"
How many layers are there? just the 1 layer of 3/4" OSB
I have radiant heat hung underneath the subfloor if that alters anything.
Another added issue is that half of the floor is already hardwood. The concrete would butt right up to it. I assume the wood needs some sort of protection from the concrete? I was thinking of just a layer of plastic or something like it. I don't want a gap between the concrete and wood if that's possible.
I just finished the curved floor project today and wanted to start thinking about the kitchen. I was originally going to do tile, but cutting curved tile will be quite the pain plus the 1/2" backer board plus the tile and thin set put the tile almost 1/8" proud of the hardwood creating a transition issue I don't want (the hardwood is just a bit shy of 3/4").
Thanks for your assistance. Hopefully this can be done.
I checked out their website. Their are a lot of floor leveling compounds, but they all appear to be underlayment specifically stating that they are only for underlayment. They have one specifically for wood substrates, but it is unclear if it can be used as a finished surface. Which did you use? Any thoughts.Self Levelling Compounds are available for this purpose. The subfloor will be fine. The SLC requires a primer to seal the OSB and prevent the edges of the SLC from curling/lifting.
You wouldn't want to pour the SLC tight against the new wood floor. So, you could use a foam sill seal laid up on edge that will later be removed after the SLC has had time to set. This will leave a small 1/8" gap to accommodate expansion and that gap can then be caulked with a latex caulk to match the wood floor color.
After the SLC is in place acid staining can be done but this will require some serious masking of the new wood floor and lower walls and anything that can be splashed during the process.
I would suggest you visit the Mapei International website and research their Self Levelling Compounds used for a wear-surface. Regular SLC's won't work. Then take a look at the website of Gaye Goodman to do a little research on acid staining.
That is a long story, a lot of steps and a lot of work. This might get a little long, so be warned.How did you do the curved edge of your hardwood floor???
All of those products are suitable for underlayments but when you look closely you find that some are suitable for foot traffic and light wheel traffic. Ultraplan M20 Plus is the product to look at closer. Mapei has more than one but I didn't spend a lot of time looking for them.I checked out their website. Their are a lot of floor leveling compounds, but they all appear to be underlayment specifically stating that they are only for underlayment. They have one specifically for wood substrates, but it is unclear if it can be used as a finished surface
Never heard of that product but that doesn't mean it wouldn't be the one to use in your case.I did find this.....