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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our new (to us) house has a damp foundation, it’s not an underground basement, it’s more like a first floor. We ripped out the drywall and flooring, had a perimeter drain and sump pump put in. Water is worse now, but I’m hoping the people who installed the drain and sump pump will fix it. Fingers crossed. Im not doing anything until it’s mitigated, but when I reinstall the drywall, I’d like to take extra measure against mold. Surprisingly, it wasn’t moldy when I pulled it out. But can I paint the back side of the drywall and with like drylok or similar before installing it? Or is this a terrible idea. Or just unnecessary? I’m using foam board insulation and a vapor barrier on the foundation walls. I know there is waterproof gypsum board you can buy, but it expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What causes/allows the water penetration?
the house was built in 1978 in a hilly area with clay soil. There is no vapor barrier under the thin slab. There is a hill that slopes down to one side of the house. And there is about 3 ft of dirt on that side of the foundation. I think dampness just comes up from the ground. But now there’s a perimeter drain, we’re having wet concrete where the patched concrete from the drain meets the old concrete and standing water around the rough in dirt area for the tub in the bathroom. So idk, a huge headache. I’m having a landscaper come out and look how we can mitigate the water away from the house better. One of the reasons I want to diy remodel is you pay someone to do something and they often mess it up anyway. If someone is going to mess it up it might as well we me, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would paint the foundation with Drylok. You could also put a membrane behind the drywall.
thanks, they installed a vapor barrier. I had forgotten about it. I’m still worried about moisture on the drywall side just from condensation. Maybe drylok on the drywall is overkill.
 

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So many possibilities...
Landscaping change is a positive step...
Need a minimum 3 degree negative grade from the foundation at minimum 10 feet.
maybe a French Drain and or swales to carry water away from the structure...
Also... Rain gutters may be failing in some way.

Water is penetrating somewhere and should be remedied with the interior drain being a back-up.

Aside: when you purchased the house, did you read any Owner's Disclosure? I believe most states require them now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Um... this is why they make mold resistant drywall.
[/QUOTE
So many possibilities...
Landscaping change is a positive step...
Need a minimum 3 degree negative grade from the foundation at minimum 10 feet.
maybe a French Drain and or swales to carry water away from the structure...
Also... Rain gutters may be failing in some way.

Water is penetrating somewhere and should be remedied with the interior drain being a back-up.

Aside: when you purchased the house, did you read any Owner's Disclosure? I believe most states require them now.
yes of course we read the disclosure. the owner didn’t disclose the water issue. I spoke with a lawyer. These failure to disclose cases often don’t go anywhere. You pay the lawyer hourly, so you’re taking a risk. It didn’t seem worth it if the fix is under 50 grand. And don’t even get me started on our inspector, he was worthless. Even missed the railings on the banister being more than 4 inches apart, could’ve killed my one year old.
 

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Maybe educate yourself before you assume I'm being snippy. Here is a random Google link to help you.


I'm not the guy who thinks paint will stop mold on the back of regular paper faced drywall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Maybe educate yourself before you assume I'm being snippy. Here is a random Google link to help you.


I'm not the guy who thinks paint will stop mold on the back of regular paper faced drywall.
I’m obviously asking for help. I don’t know much about drywall, which is why I’m asking. I’m not a contractor, I don’t do drywall for a living. I’m just someone trying to put back together a disaster. I’m a mom with two small children and a tight budget. So there’s a difference, ok, good to know. But you don’t have to be rude. This site is called “diychatroom”. I guess people asking questions and not knowing everything makes you think everyone is an idiot. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’m obviously asking for help. I don’t know much about drywall, which is why I’m asking. I’m not a contractor, I don’t do drywall for a living. I’m just someone trying to put back together a disaster. I’m a mom with two small children and a tight budget. So there’s a difference, ok, good to know. But you don’t have to be rude. This site is called “diychatroom”. I guess people asking questions and not knowing everything makes you think everyone is an idiot. Thanks for the help.
Maybe educate yourself before you assume I'm being snippy. Here is a random Google link to help you.


I'm not the guy who thinks paint will stop mold on the back of regular paper faced drywall.
there’s also a thick vapor barrier professionally installed. I was talking about the drylok just as an extra measure. Which is a painted on waterproof membrane, not just paint.
 

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Maybe educate yourself before you assume I'm being snippy. Here is a random Google link to help you.


I'm not the guy who thinks paint will stop mold on the back of regular paper faced drywall.
Good grief!
The gentleman is here asking for help because he doesn't know what might best work. He's seeking answers not chastisement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mold "resistant" drywall is not the answer for the situation and it's really not so resistant.
Thanks, I think you are right. Mitigating water outside will make a huge difference. I really hope we can find someone who can help us do that effectively and for under 10 grand. I honestly wouldn’t even know where to start.
 

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there’s also a thick vapor barrier professionally installed. I was talking about the drylok just as an extra measure. Which is a painted on waterproof membrane, not just paint.
Need to get the water penetration challenge handled first; then the walls.
Be patient, it may take some time to find the answer.
It's a mystery needing a sure solution or the inevitable "do over" is only being postponed.
 

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Foam board and vapor barrier have taken care of the moisture from the wet wall, forcing it to travel down to the perimeter drain. Perimeter drain takes that moisture away... that's how they work, and why you had it installed. You would use a mold resistant drywall in just such a situation, which is better than plain drywall, and better than green board as far as mold is concerned. They call it basement board too, because it's a superior product for potentially/ occasionally damp areas.

Thom has already addressed steps to take to reduce the moisture.

I don't know where you think I'm snippy or chastising. Sorry if it's not what you want to hear.
 

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Thanks, I think you are right. Mitigating water outside will make a huge difference. I really hope we can find someone who can help us do that effectively and for under 10 grand. I honestly wouldn’t even know where to start.
You've done the inside drain, now the outside as I previously wrote in post
#6. It's akin to playing the board game "Clue"
I’m obviously asking for help. I don’t know much about drywall, which is why I’m asking. I’m not a contractor, I don’t do drywall for a living. I’m just someone trying to put back together a disaster. I’m a mom with two small children and a tight budget. So there’s a difference, ok, good to know. But you don’t have to be rude. This site is called “diychatroom”. I guess people asking questions and not knowing everything makes you think everyone is an idiot. Thanks for the help.
You'll get some help here, Ma'am. As much as can be given without actually being at the scene. There are several Pros frequently visiting here. I am one.
 
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