DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks, I want to move my toilet but its on concrete and I really don't want to have to jackhammer it up. So my question is can I redirect it up into the wall thru the framing? Sorry I have zero knowledge in plumbing but will read up if I have to. Just wanted to know if its possible.

I want to move it to where the toilet paper thing is. The pipe coming up from the ground is no problem cause I would extend the shower (from the left side) all the way to the other wall (where the toilet paper is) and build a seating area to conceal it.






the venting can be easily moved as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,425 Posts
A whole lot of work for little gain.
The floor would have to be jack hammered out all the way under the wall, you would need at least a 6" thick wall for the drain pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
damn, I really need more space on the wall. as of now my max shower size can be 30" wide. I'm assuming If I were to build the wall out with another 2x4 I'd have sufficient space? Moving the toilet like this is pretty much my only viable option
 

·
Bill Kearney
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
Just where do you think the toilet would drain where it to go "into the wall"? There are such things as toilets that recess their tank and have their drain in the wall cavity. They're not cheap and it still has to drain down to a sewer line. Where is the other line you'd use?

It'd be a lot simpler to just rent a jackhammer and do it right. Bust the floor, re-route the plumbing (properly) and concrete it over again.

Honestly, if you didn't know enough to already know this answer, then perhaps you really should consider speaking with a local plumbing professional about it.
 

·
Renovations contractor
Joined
·
324 Posts
Just where do you think the toilet would drain where it to go "into the wall"? There are such things as toilets that recess their tank and have their drain in the wall cavity. They're not cheap and it still has to drain down to a sewer line. Where is the other line you'd use?

It'd be a lot simpler to just rent a jackhammer and do it right. Bust the floor, re-route the plumbing (properly) and concrete it over again.

If you didn't know enough to already know this answer, the perhaps you really should consider speaking with a local plumbing professional about it.
The type of toilet referred to above is typically in the region of $1200 cost (here in BC anyway) ... no idea where in the world you are so that may mean nothing. If you can afford one of these wall mounted toilets then you can afford to do it right ... jack hammer time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Just took it out today, thanks for the tip on covering it, and the placement is fine, theres 15 and 15" to each side. Also I'll be buying a rear drain toilet, so the drain can come from the wall they're pretty much the same price

Heres my idea on paper, I think my post was misunderstood. All I wanted to know was If i could move the drain from the toilet to a new location by moving the drain thru the wall

 

·
Renovations contractor
Joined
·
324 Posts
Ok so all the pros who have responded are telling you bad idea ... And also if you are in North America or UK (the areas I am generally familiar with) then this does not meet code in most if not all areas. Not only would you have to notch out studs in that back wall totally (is it a load bearing wall) but also you will have to raise the shower such that the curb would be a silly height. I guess if you want to spend way more time and money and end up with a bathroom that is not to code (depending where you are of course as we don't know) then go for it ... But if you actually want constructive feedback then jack hammer the floor and do it right.
 

·
Bill Kearney
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
You're planning on running behind the wall and back into the existing toilet flange? And how do you expect that to work? As in, it will not work. Do not do this. Mistakes with sewage get expensive and nasty. Do not do this. If something goes wrong with your re-routed nonsense then you'll have to bust open the whole shower bench covering it.

Just do it the right way. Bust open the concrete and move the toilet flange properly. This is not a hard job. Fixing a half-ass nightmare WILL BE.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
25,769 Posts
Opening the slab with a jack hammer--3 hours tops---

Your plan will not pass code--it will be a drainage failure---and the elevated floor will look like a mess.

By the time you allow for the shower P-trap your shower will be 10 inches above the floor--
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright I'll look into the jack hammer way, thanks

but to be clear, nothing is elevated. the drain pipe will be concealed under a shower seat and the wall is not load bearing, i was going to build it out to accommodate anyway. and i live in canada.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
516 Posts
Toilet Bowl said:
does someone wanna tell me why it'll fail tho? adding the pipe up, and behind a wall back out to the new location seemed like a quick fix to me
You'd have to cut off the flange, attach a 90 facing back, pipe into the wall, another 90 to turn sideways, run new pipe in the wall sloping up, 90 out of the wall,stub out to the toilet flange location, add another 90 pointing up, attach a new flange, box in the pipes and build a sturdy platform about 16+ inches high to sit the toilet on top of, which means steps... Etc etc

Hmm come to think of it, that really would be a throne wouldn't it?

Plus with all those turns, it would tend to clog. And, if takes you more than about 5 feet, you'd have to open the floor any way to remove the existing trap and move it to the new location because you can't have 2 traps on a fixture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
You'd have to cut off the flange, attach a 90, run new pipe sloping up, add another 90 pointing up, attach a new flange, box in the pipes and build a sturdy platform about 16 inches high to sit the toilet on top of, which means steps.

Hmm come to think of it, that really would be a throne wouldn't it?

Plus with all those turns, it would tend to clog. And, if takes you more than about 5 feet, you'd have to open the floor any way to remove the existing trap and move it to the new location because you can't have 2 traps on a fixture.
lol yea it would but i will be buying a new toilet that has a rear end drain like this (though not that expensive/high-tech)



I never thought of the clogging, it'll have 3 turns. and yea itll move about 3-5ft

also this is a gut job, a lot of walls are already down cause of mould
 

·
Renovations contractor
Joined
·
324 Posts
You'd have to cut off the flange, attach a 90, run new pipe sloping up, add another 90 pointing up, attach a new flange, box in the pipes and build a sturdy platform about 16 inches high to sit the toilet on top of, which means steps.

Hmm come to think of it, that really would be a throne wouldn't it?
Not to mention reframing the wall to build it out far enough to run the correct diameter of pipe in the wall which includes being able to make a turn from the
wall to come out to the toilet while the whole time maintaining a slope. There's a reason licensed plumbers the world over install toilets in much the same way ... and in Canada sh#t still flows downhill (and not great round a loop of 90 degree turns) :whistling2:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top