[kennykenny]

I have a food pantry off of my kitchen that is very warm in the summer and cold in the winter. The outside wall of the pantry, on one side, is the garage and the other side backs to the interior of the home.

There is a wall register about 10 feet away, on the outside of the pantry. The register is exactly what I need for my pantry just in the the wrong spot.

My question is, I am not sure how ducts "typically" run through walls. The opening in the duct in the wall pictured has the opening on the bottom. Is it possible to cut a hole through the wall into the duct and simply add a wall register to all air to access my pantry if the duct does run parallel? Since the hole in the existing vent has the hole on the bottom, does that mean that the duct work would not run parallel in the wall to the pantry area? As you are looking at the picture, the desired vent would go to the right into my pantry which is on the other side of the brown stained wall.

I hope that I am explaining my thoughts correctly. Please let me know if I can clarify better.

 

[Bitters]

Yea, I'm a little confused. Are you trying to extend that duct over to the right?

 

[kennykenny]

Yea, I'm a little confused. Are you trying to extend that duct over to the right?

Yes, I want to have a register in my pantry, beyond the stained wall to the right in the pic.

 

[Colbyt]

As high as that is on the wall I suspect it might be a return. When the heat is on does warm air blow out or is there a draft in? Hint: a blown out match which is still smoking is a great indicator of air flow direction.

Additional info that might be helpful. Is your furnace in the attic, basement or or on the same floor.

There is almost always a way to add a vent but the existing furnace and duct work determines the method.

 

[beenthere]

That down runs vertical, as in up and down. Not left and right.

 

[kennykenny]

As high as that is on the wall I suspect it might be a return. When the heat is on does warm air blow out or is there a draft in? Hint: a blown out match which is still smoking is a great indicator of air flow direction.

Additional info that might be helpful. Is your furnace in the attic, basement or or on the same floor.

There is almost always a way to add a vent but the existing furnace and duct work determines the method.

When the heat is on, I feel a slight draft and no air blowing out like I feel blowing out of the floor vents. So assuming that it is a return(?) I guess that what threw me off is that the vent that I took of the opening has the lever to open and close it. I guess that I didn't think of it being a return since it had the open/close lever.

The furnace is in the basement. I have a reverse 1 1/2 style home and the furnace is on the bottom floor.

 

[Colbyt]

Returns are rarely full metal in residential. It might be either. One might have a close lever on a return if there was a high and low in the same room. Use the high to try and return the hot air in the summer and the lower one for cool air in the winter. That would be a pretty custom job not commonly seen. I actually had one in a room with a wood stove to move some of the warmer air around the rest of the house.

Tapping into the main trunk and bringing a warm vent up to the pantry is your best option. Room size determines duct and register size. Probably a 4" duct and 2x10 boot for the average pantry but get one of the HVAC to confirm that as I am just guessing.

 

[beenthere]

4 or 3" is plenty for a small pantry. 4" is slightly better. As its easier to damper it down, then to get more air out of a 3".

 

[ZTMAN]

We have a about a 60 sq ft pantry with a floor vent, and I actually close it off because it gets to hot/cold in that small room. Same set up as you. one wall on a, three on interior walls. Before reconfiguring your hvac, you may be able just to cut a vent in the door, or an interior wall. just to get some interior air flowing in the pantry.
If you tie into the main system, just have a way to balance the air flow