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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I'm developing a piece of property in Western North Carolina with a house, a small cabin, and an RV spot. I have buried 800 feet of Triplex URD Cable and I'm a bit concerned that I should have buried a fourth conductor (an equipment grounding conductor). The diagram below shows how I thought the wiring should be done, but I think I have the grounding wrong. I understand that the Neutral-Ground Bonding should only be done in the main panel and sub panels need to have the equipment grounding conductor, but what I don't understand is why these would be considered sub panels. If there is a way I can avoid digging another 800 foot trench, I would be eternally grateful. Also, considering the Meter Socket is 200' from the house, do I need disconnects at the socket for the house and the run to the Cabin?
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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Assuming there are breakers in that meter main, you need 4 wire feeds to both the house, cabin and RV post. And you can't tap into the middle of he run for those lights.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't purchased the meter main yet but I do think I need one that has a 200 amp breaker for the house service cables. The Main Panel in the house is not on an exterior wall and has about 15' of cable running through the walls before the panel so I expect that I would need a cut off panel for the house anyway.

I am ok with removing the Park light. In that case, I'd like to use the cabin Panel as the main panel and the RV pedestal as a sub panel. Luckily I haven't yet buried the trench from the Meter to the House or the trench from the Cabin to the RV spot.

At this point, my question is if I can have a disconnect for the house in the meter main, but no disconnect for the cabin. I understand that the service cables to the cabin would not be over current protected until they reach the cabin panel, which would be on an exterior wall.
 

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Sewer, water, and electric and what inspections have you scheduled, those need to be done before the trench is filled.

Bud
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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Don't use a meter main. Install a meter with dual lugs. From one set of lugs go to the house with 3 wire and install a disconnect outside and run 4 wire to your inside panel. From the other set of meter lugs run 3 wire to the cabin and install a meter main out side. From a breaker in the meter main you can run a 3 wire, 30 amp 120 VAC to the RV post. If you need a 50 amp 120/240 RV connection you will have to run 4 wire. From another breaker at the cabin panel run your lights.
 

· wNCmountainCabin
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you are proposing, or at least you have a photo of a large 'RV SERVICE' panel, but are you really 'needing' this whole piece of equipment? Is this for your own needs for your own RV, or are you anticipating 'hosting' various sizes of RVs?

For me, if it was just for my own use, I wouldn't need anything more than the most common 30amp RV outlet*, placed somewhere close to where the RV would most likely be parked, within 20' anyway. They have very easy and inexpensive 30amp Outdoor boxes that are simply for the outlet itself. You can run this from your Cabin's Main Panel, via a 30amp 120v breaker, rather than the amount of cost and work for the full equipment you have in your drawing.
Even still, if 50amp RV service is needed, you can really do just the same. Outdoor/underground 4 wire protected line is available...UFB, I believe. A 50amp outlet box is all you'd need at the site, with the 240v double-pole 50amp breaker within the Cabin's panel.

*most RVs parked near to their owner may not necessarily need to be connected to the 'power' that they may be designed for(i.e., 50amp RV Service) if just for 'some' electrical in case they want to keep the batteries charged, or use the RV for an additional sleeping area when extra kin are coming. 30amp power provides plenty even for the 50amp RVs, unless you are expecting the RV usage during the very HOT summers or COLD winters.


just some thoughts. I've done it plenty of times.
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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rjniles, I think your right. Do you agree with this diagram....
Looks good to me. Using outside disconnects on the house and cabin is required as URD can not be brought into the building. Use Sch 80 PVC risers to bring the cable up to the panels.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks good to me. Using outside disconnects on the house and cabin is required as URD can not be brought into the building. Use Sch 80 PVC risers to bring the cable up to the panels.

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I'm still waiting on a call back from the inspector, but I did talk to an electrician and he said it is not to code. He said the disconnects must be within 6ft of the meter. The diagram I made has unprotected wiring leading to the house and cabin. I replied that if the meter was on the house, they would be unprotected as well. To this he replied... doesn't matter, those would belong to the power company and they bury deeper and in conduit.
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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I disagree with the electrician but see what the inspector says. Also ask the inspector if you can install and unfused safety switch at the meter and run 3 wire to your 2 panels.
EX. Meter - safety switch - 3 wire - exterior panels with neutral ground bond - 4 wire - subpanel in house.

And the POCO in my area (coastal SC) only buries 2 feet deep and not in conduit.
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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you need some overcurrent protection between your meter and cabin, you cant have 600ft unprotected wires, this is only accepted for very short distance in homes
Disagree, the unprotected wire is not in the home. Think about the wire the PICO runs to your meter, either aerial or buried- not protected.

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· A "Handy Husband"
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This is POCO rules not nec ones, anything after the meter must be protected within 30ft ( a lot of places doesn't accept more than 5-10 ft)
That rule applies when the unfused conductors enter the building, never heard it applied outside. And have seen many runs outside the building after the meter.

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