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Right off, this was hoping to see if there is anything else I may be able to change, watchout for, fix, and maybe give someone else some ideas.
I finally got around to doing my water softener setup. I knew what to do from the loop at the time, (and too bad, I didn't just know how to do it all then). So I started here (installed by plumber), In from the street and up on the right, down and to the house on the left: PIC 1.
PIC 2: (with metal valves) This was so I would have a bypass ready, and could install it without interfering with my water depending on whenever that would be. I didn't do the tape right, and there was a slight leak at the threads. It wasn't much, but I didn't feel comfortable doing it that way. So I returned the metal ball valves, and used CPVC ball valves
PIC 3: All CPVC setup. I had it running through what would be the bypass, and tried to figure out what I would buy, how I would have it set up, etc...
PIC 4 then PIC 5. Is where its at now. I forgot to get the salt, which I will do tomorrow, and then finish it up. Just the brine line, add the bulbs, and finish the insulation.
From PIC 3 to PIC 5: I went a few inches up, and added another Tee and valve right off the tee. That line is the only one visible in 5. Its all pre filtering, and going to go down to a hose bib just so I have the option since It seemed easy to do now. Goes up to a 90 then a 1" CPVC to 1" male thread. to a 12" water softener 1" hose. This into the (blue) house filter, (3m aqua pure AP903). I wanted to keep it 1", and options were limited. This was $173 and should be good for about 4 years for me or 100K gallons. I used a small scrap piece of wood with (2) 3 1/2" wood screws holding it to the stud, and two more wood screws going through the bracket into the wood, then partially the stud.
After the house filter is another 1" CPVC to 1" male threaded CPVC, CPVC to water softener hose to water softener.
Leaving the water softener through a water softener hose into that big metal tube.
That tube is a UV light purification system. This was not only overkill but oversized (which is fine), but wanted to keep it 1" piping. The UV light tube has the volume to hold no more than 2 1/2 gallons. With the tube it should weigh no more than 30 pounds. I lined up the holes for the bolts to hold the tube to the board, traced the washers, and used a Dremel to cut down 1/2" so when the bolts were tightened down the heads would sit flush with the board on the wall side, (Bolt, lock washer, then washer). I used (9) 5/16" x 3 1/2 construction lag screws (3 in each stud) to secure the board to the wall. (I dremeled cuts into the end of the bolts so I could use a flat head to help hold the bolts while I tightened down the nuts to secure the UV tube.
After the UV light it goes right into a water softener hose, then to CPVC back into the original loop and into the house.
Its right at the corner of the garage, and wanted to stabilize it. I added that 2x8 (because that extends out farther from the wall then pipe). I used three of the big brackets that let me get three screws in each going into the studs. I cut out a section so it sits flush on the wall, and (purposely) left an 1" gap off the floor. I cut a piece to fit behind the bypass section, along with two more custom cuts. I mounted them (2) 3" screws on each and pipe 1 1/2" pipe clamps to secure to the wood.
I went overkill adding a water softener pipe between each section, so that I had the option to remove any of it if needed.
I used 1" foam insulation over all the CPVC pipe and WS hoses. Over top of that to cover the ball valves, (and WS hose connections, after I verify there are no leaks), I used 2" pipe insulation I had to get off amazon. I used zip ties to secure the foam insulation, and going to use yellow zip ties to mark the 2" insulation over the WS hose connections. I'm even using a battery backup on this, because I'm a goofball that doesn't do things the easy way.
The only other thing I may do is, take the WS hose off after the UV light, then adding a Tee. This would be the first spot when all filtering is done. One side would go back the way it is now. The other side would be a to a small tap/spigot/big so that I can get purified water like I would in the house, right there in the garage for when I'm working in the yard or on the pickup.
I had a pressure regulator valve installed upon move in, and pressure went from 126psi to 80psi (so I know the piping can handle it). The unfinished pipe that is going to be unfiltered is going to go down and angled out so that it if I turn it on or use it, its at least angled towards the garage door. I will put some kind of screen perhaps even a second valve just to keep bugs/dirt/other from going up into the pipe. I considered using pipe wrap on the UV tube, but the UV light should generate some heat. I'm in south Texas where it snowed two days ago for 18 seconds, so I should be good for another decade.
The zip ties, vertical pipe next to the board and insulation is just there so its handy, and will be cleaned up.
Sooooo. Got any thoughts on what I can do to improve on it, or any problems I may have? Thanks.
I finally got around to doing my water softener setup. I knew what to do from the loop at the time, (and too bad, I didn't just know how to do it all then). So I started here (installed by plumber), In from the street and up on the right, down and to the house on the left: PIC 1.
PIC 2: (with metal valves) This was so I would have a bypass ready, and could install it without interfering with my water depending on whenever that would be. I didn't do the tape right, and there was a slight leak at the threads. It wasn't much, but I didn't feel comfortable doing it that way. So I returned the metal ball valves, and used CPVC ball valves
PIC 3: All CPVC setup. I had it running through what would be the bypass, and tried to figure out what I would buy, how I would have it set up, etc...
PIC 4 then PIC 5. Is where its at now. I forgot to get the salt, which I will do tomorrow, and then finish it up. Just the brine line, add the bulbs, and finish the insulation.
From PIC 3 to PIC 5: I went a few inches up, and added another Tee and valve right off the tee. That line is the only one visible in 5. Its all pre filtering, and going to go down to a hose bib just so I have the option since It seemed easy to do now. Goes up to a 90 then a 1" CPVC to 1" male thread. to a 12" water softener 1" hose. This into the (blue) house filter, (3m aqua pure AP903). I wanted to keep it 1", and options were limited. This was $173 and should be good for about 4 years for me or 100K gallons. I used a small scrap piece of wood with (2) 3 1/2" wood screws holding it to the stud, and two more wood screws going through the bracket into the wood, then partially the stud.
After the house filter is another 1" CPVC to 1" male threaded CPVC, CPVC to water softener hose to water softener.
Leaving the water softener through a water softener hose into that big metal tube.
That tube is a UV light purification system. This was not only overkill but oversized (which is fine), but wanted to keep it 1" piping. The UV light tube has the volume to hold no more than 2 1/2 gallons. With the tube it should weigh no more than 30 pounds. I lined up the holes for the bolts to hold the tube to the board, traced the washers, and used a Dremel to cut down 1/2" so when the bolts were tightened down the heads would sit flush with the board on the wall side, (Bolt, lock washer, then washer). I used (9) 5/16" x 3 1/2 construction lag screws (3 in each stud) to secure the board to the wall. (I dremeled cuts into the end of the bolts so I could use a flat head to help hold the bolts while I tightened down the nuts to secure the UV tube.
After the UV light it goes right into a water softener hose, then to CPVC back into the original loop and into the house.
Its right at the corner of the garage, and wanted to stabilize it. I added that 2x8 (because that extends out farther from the wall then pipe). I used three of the big brackets that let me get three screws in each going into the studs. I cut out a section so it sits flush on the wall, and (purposely) left an 1" gap off the floor. I cut a piece to fit behind the bypass section, along with two more custom cuts. I mounted them (2) 3" screws on each and pipe 1 1/2" pipe clamps to secure to the wood.
I went overkill adding a water softener pipe between each section, so that I had the option to remove any of it if needed.
I used 1" foam insulation over all the CPVC pipe and WS hoses. Over top of that to cover the ball valves, (and WS hose connections, after I verify there are no leaks), I used 2" pipe insulation I had to get off amazon. I used zip ties to secure the foam insulation, and going to use yellow zip ties to mark the 2" insulation over the WS hose connections. I'm even using a battery backup on this, because I'm a goofball that doesn't do things the easy way.
The only other thing I may do is, take the WS hose off after the UV light, then adding a Tee. This would be the first spot when all filtering is done. One side would go back the way it is now. The other side would be a to a small tap/spigot/big so that I can get purified water like I would in the house, right there in the garage for when I'm working in the yard or on the pickup.
I had a pressure regulator valve installed upon move in, and pressure went from 126psi to 80psi (so I know the piping can handle it). The unfinished pipe that is going to be unfiltered is going to go down and angled out so that it if I turn it on or use it, its at least angled towards the garage door. I will put some kind of screen perhaps even a second valve just to keep bugs/dirt/other from going up into the pipe. I considered using pipe wrap on the UV tube, but the UV light should generate some heat. I'm in south Texas where it snowed two days ago for 18 seconds, so I should be good for another decade.
The zip ties, vertical pipe next to the board and insulation is just there so its handy, and will be cleaned up.
Sooooo. Got any thoughts on what I can do to improve on it, or any problems I may have? Thanks.
