[bp8va]

What is this HVAC make/model as the sticker has lost color and is now white. The house was built around the year 2002 so the HVAC should be from around that time.

The Problem: No cool air upstairs (this is the upstairs unit, the other unit for downstairs is cooling and is newer).

Checked this HVAC unit outside (the gray one pictured) and there is a buzzing sound and the fan area above the unit is hot to touch. If the piece is taken out of the shut off switch and left out for several minutes, then upon putting it back in there is a sound like the unit wants to start but it does not.

The picture with numbers and text is of fan's sticker, maybe it helps with identifying the unit. Also a picture of the compressor and its wiring for the same reason.

Thank you for your input and help.

 

[user_12345a]

Very likely a bad run capacitor. With the power off, remove the electrical panel and see if the cap is bulging or leaking.

even if it's not, can still be bad - next step would be to check the capacitor with a meter that can, spin the fan by hand to see if it has seized and ohm out the windings.

Compressor is probably off on thermal overload and will take a while to reset.

btw that white wire should be in conduit.

 

[bp8va]

Checked a neighbor's unit and found the HVAC make and model:
Brand:
York

Model:
H2RA030S06D

Product:
Heat Pump

One puzzling thing is if the a/c circuit breakers at the fuse box are shut off the buzzing noise WON'T go away. The buzzing noise only goes away if the sliding connector at the shut off switch near the HVAC unit is taken out. What is going on?

It could be a bad capacitor as there was another unit in another house some time ago that had a bad capacitor. It is getting dark here so I can't go out and check the unit right now, but I did not see an access panel on this HVAC where the capacitor could be. Where is the access panel and the capacitor on this HVAC?

Thank you.

 

[user_12345a]

One puzzling thing is if the a/c circuit breakers at the fuse box are shut off the buzzing noise WON'T go away. The buzzing noise only goes away if the sliding connector at the shut off switch near the HVAC unit is taken out. What is going on

The buzz comes from the contactor - powered by air handler's transformer.

The electrical access panel is in the first pic, the compartment where the white wire is going in.

If you have zero experience working on anything electrical it may be better to call a tech.

 

[bp8va]

Thank you for your reply.
Will take off the access panel when it is daylight again and will check the capacitor visually for bulge. If no bulge will try to do some capacitor testing too.

Did spin the fan earlier and it spined OK, not seized.

Any idea why turing the circuit breakers labeled small a/c and large a/c at the fuse box won't make the buzz noise go away? Buzz goes away only when the sliding contact is removed from the shut off switch.

To clarify: the buzz noise is more like a low level vibration that can be felt when hand is placed on top of the unit.

I have heard from others that the contractors that installed these HVACs did not do a very good job, hence the white wire sticking out like that. Can you suggest the type of conduit to use to hide this wire? Or post a picture of how it should look?

 

[user_12345a]

see last post - contactor buzzes and has a separate power source.

 

[57TinkerMan]

Leave the electric disconnect out for tonight. If the buzzing stops when you pull it out it's probably not the contactor but the fan motor trying to start. Let the system cool down. Follow "user_12345a" suggestions to check the capacitor when you can see better. By looking at your other pics, I don't think your unit is a Heat Pump.

 

[bp8va]

I did take out the slider contact from the shut off switch and left it out because I was afraid it may heat things up even more and cause more problems. So hopefully the unit will cool down and any thermal shut off reset themselves.

I doubt if the buzz is from the fan motor because it can be felt by putting the hand on the top of the unit above the access panel, and away from the fan motor. But with that mentioned the fan motor area was quite hot to touch.

I only copied and pasted what a website showed about this unit model specs. The website stated it was a heat pump. Google search states: "Air conditioners do not provide heating, but heat pumps do." I assume a heat pump has the ability to run the gases in HVAC in the other direction thereby causing heat generation instead of cooling. Is this correct?

How can I verify if this is a heat pump or not?

Thank you.

 

[surferdude2]

If/when you get the failure to start/run problem fixed, it looks like your condenser coil needs some attention. It's severely clogged, unless the picture is lying to my old eyes. You should be able to shine a light through the fins to see if the coil is clear and getting ample air flow.

 

[57TinkerMan]

The picture you posted doesn't show the necessary components you would have if it were a heat pump. It's possible that you have a control transformer in the outdoor unit that would shut off when you pull the disconnect stopping the buzzing noise. Take a pic of the controls when you open it up tomorrow.

 

[bp8va]

Thank you for mentioning the condenser coils so that is something that needs to be checked and cleaned if necessary. I have access to compressed air and also water hose. Is there a neat way to clean the condenser coils if they need cleaning without making a mess of my clothing or getting a ton of stuff up my nose? If this does need cleaning I will wear a mask.

I will take a photo of the controls tomorrow and post it here.

 

[surferdude2]

I did take out the slider contact from the shut off switch and left it out

Are you referring to the push-on connector that connects the thermostat's control circuit to the contactor? If so, and that stops the buzzing, then it's just the normal buzzing of the contactor. If it's bothersome loud, you should replace it but that likely isn't your immediate problem unless it's causing poor operation of the contactor and dropping the voltage being delivered to the fan and compressor. That isn't likely but could happen. Inspect the capacitor and replace as needed.

If you get lucky, it'll start and run again. Then clean that condenser oil if need be.

 

[surferdude2]

Backward flushing gently with hose water spray is the normal way to clean the condenser coil. Sometimes a chemical solution is needed to free the gunk up... not always but sometimes. Protect the electrical from the water as necessary, especially the compressor junction box.

You'll have to remove the top panel along with the fan (unplug as need be) to gain access to the back of the condenser for back flushing it.

 

[user_12345a]

the mesh on the coil may need to be removed to clean that coil effectively, and it's a huge pain.

 

[bp8va]

Are you referring to the push-on connector that connects the thermostat's control circuit to the contactor? If so, and that stops the buzzing, then it's just the normal buzzing of the contactor. If it's bothersome loud, you should replace it but that likely isn't your immediate problem unless it's causing poor operation of the contactor and dropping the voltage being delivered to the fan and compressor. That isn't likely but could happen. Inspect the capacitor and replace as needed.

If you get lucky, it'll start and run again. Then clean that condenser oil if need be.

I am referring to the slide contact of the shut off box that I posted the picture of in the original posting. It is picture number 2. The buzzing sound is not loud and being outside certainly won't bother anyone but I thought it may have been indicative of a problem.

If backward flushing is necessary and top panel has to be remove to gain access to the back of the condenser coil do all those screws at the top of the HVAC have to come out? I saw a lot of screws at the top of the unit so was wondering.

What part is the compressor junction box? I did a search for it and it showed the shut off switch that is on the wall of the house, but I think you are referring to something else.

 

[surferdude2]

Yes, all those screws will have to come out and the fan wires will have to be disconnected and made free to come along with the entire top when removed. Take care not to bend the fan blades.

You'll also need to remove the grill so you can get that net off the outside coil face.

The compressor junction is on the side of the compressor... just be careful not to direct the hose at it or cover it with kitchen plastic wrap.

 

[surferdude2]

You can use 1/2" or maybe 3/4" would be easier seal-tite flex with the proper connectors to protect the exposed uf cable.

 

[bp8va]

One last question before I call it a day. Where can I find a capacitor on a Sunday in Northern Virginia near DC? Thanks.

 

[57TinkerMan]

Home Depot usually has them. Make sure you get the proper rating, bring your old one with you.

 

[bp8va]

Took off the access cover today. The capacitor has bulged. Can't get the capacitor today. The capacitor is a 440V 35/5uf. Home Depot does not carry any capacitor in our area (DC Metropolitan). Have to wait till Monday or order it online.

Took off the fan and top of the HVAC as a unit to inspect the condenser coils for cleaning. The condenser coils looked remarkably clean perhaps due to the placement of the HVAC unit in the narrow passage between the houses. The coils also passed the flash light test (see picture).

Should not have taken the top of the unit out UNTIL the flashlight test was done, perhaps using an access point such as loosening the fan and propping it and then using the flashlight or use a flashlight with a fiber optic extension. Taking the top of the unit was problematic as inadvertently the condenser coils get some damage. Lesson learned (hopefully).

The capacitor terminals were extremely corroded, since could not get the capacitor today, cleaned the terminals real good hoping it might work at least temporarily, but no luck, still the system did not work. (see picture of the terminals of the capacitor).

Once a new capacitor is installed I will report back if the system works normally or if there is still issues.

Had some questions about the programming of the unit (see pictures). We really don't use the programming. We need to set it at a temperature for it to come on for cool when the temperature rises above 76 and for heat to come on when the temperature falls below 74. How is this accomplished?

Normally I push the "i" button on the panel and then set the above temperatures for cool and heat separately. Then as needed switch the system to heat or cool manually using the "system" button.
This works but I am just wondering if it is the correct procedure or not.

Thank you.