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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Busted the HWH drain pipe elbow on outside of house with the mower - oh the humanity of it all...

It's cpvc (cheapskate builder) - how do the pros (that's you all) fix this (before I open up the wall from the inside and run a new piece of pipe) ?

Thx so much.
 

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If you have access to the pipe from inside, you should be able to cut, twist it a couple of times, and push it out half an inch or so to get a new elbow on it. You'll have to splice in a piece inside to make up the gap. I would forego the glue from the elbow to the pipe in the wall, so next time you hit it with the lawnmower, you can just pick it up and put it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry my bad - live in Texas so water heater is in the attic and the pipe runs down through the wall and brick to get outside.

Only way to get to it would be open up an inside wall, cut it off, drill it out, and add new piece down there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have access to the pipe from inside, you should be able to cut, twist it a couple of times, and push it out half an inch or so to get a new elbow on it. You'll have to splice in a piece inside to make up the gap. I would forego the glue from the elbow to the pipe in the wall, so next time you hit it with the lawnmower, you can just pick it up and put it back on.
That's the plan if have to open inside wall to get to it. Actually going to glue a coupling on the end of new pipe but like you said NOT glue elbow back on so I can slip it off when mow.

Just hoping you all have a trick to this so don't have to open wall.
 

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Only way to get to it would be open up an inside wall, cut it off, drill it out, and add new piece down there.

In that case, I can only suggest chipping around the end of the pipe where it comes through the outside wall enough to get a coupler on it (at least 3/8"), and glue it on (a thin film of solvent cement in the coupler should be adequate just so it doesn't come apart there). Then use a street ell to make the turn close to the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In that case, I can only suggest chipping around the end of the pipe where it comes through the outside wall enough to get a coupler on it (at least 3/8"), and glue it on (a thin film of solvent cement in the coupler should be adequate just so it doesn't come apart there). Then use a street ell to make the turn close to the wall.
I'm thinking if I start chipping at that mortar I'll just crack the pipe
 

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The pipe you are dealing with is CPVC. It is diferent diameter than PVC and is rated for hot water, PVC is not.

You asked how a pro would do it- use a cheap screwdriver with a wide blade and starting about a 1/4" away from the pipe start chipping away at the mortar. Using light taps with a hammer and the screwdriver at a slight angle, I believe the mortar will come out with no damage to the pipe.
As mentioned earlier, you only need about a quarter inch of exposed pipe. Use 1-step Flowguard CPVC glue to apply a new CPVC 90- done deal. Once you have the material, it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes....
 

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Happened to me once replacing a main shutoff valve for a friend. Luckily it was drywall so I just opened the wall up and fixed it. But I hate CPVC. That crap gets so brittle, seems like a flood waiting to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Now, drill some holes in the brick and bolt a cage over the new repair so you don't bust it off again the next time you mow!
Ha ! LOL I went ahead and glued the 90 in place cuz I figured if I'm not smart enough to just go around this when mowing I am obviously DE-volving and likely won't be walking upright any longer soon, so no more mowing grass - GITTER DUN !
 
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