Building stairs
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Joined
·
737 Posts
What type of stair is it? Interior or exterior? What do you mean by closed stringers? Is it a box stair going between 2 walls? Will it be finished with hardwood or just carpet. In most interior stairs the rough stringers are made of 2x12 KD Spruce. Unless they are housed stringers, in which you do not need rough stringers. Exterior stringers are usually Pressure treated material.
Closed meaning I router out the pockets in the stingers to accept the treads and risers and use wedges to hold them in. They are interior stairs and they will be boxed stingers, I am not sure how I will finsh them but I am planning to leave 3/4 of an inch for finishing.
If you scroll down on this link http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/qa/routing-closed-stringer-stairs.aspx you will see the type of stringer I will be building.
Thanks
If you scroll down on this link http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/qa/routing-closed-stringer-stairs.aspx you will see the type of stringer I will be building.
Thanks
Joined
·
737 Posts
im no sure what you are referring to
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
I’d use Oak.
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
Who said anything about 2x. but sure I would. They must be exposed or you wouldn’t be building them that way.
Couldn’t count how many sets of stairs I’ve built but since this is your 4th what did you do on the first 3.
Couldn’t count how many sets of stairs I’ve built but since this is your 4th what did you do on the first 3.
Joined
·
737 Posts
You only need to use 1" thick material for the stringers. I dado in 1" treads 3/8" into the stringer. Wedges hold them in. I use poplar stringers (5/4x10). 1" oak treads. If you like oak I would go with a 1x10 for the stringers.
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
Screwy’s question is vague, for me what species to use would depend on what you want it to look like when your done.
You are talking to a stair master (millertyme)---look at his profile.
And several very experienced finish carpenters---why are you getting snippy?
---Mike----
I am sorry if I offended anyone, not my intentions. I will try to be more specific with my post to help you to help me. I do not know the proper terminology, so it is difficult for me to explain to you when I may not be using the proper words.
I am clearly not an expert at stair building but have but sets in the past. Normally I use 2 x 12 No. 2 spruce KD HT. The sets I have built in the past have been for my basement, to my bonus room over my garage, my deck, and in my barn. This set will be my "main" staircase, so I really want these to be solid and as proper as I can.
Normally I lay out my stringers and router out the pockets that will accept the treads and risers. I make the wedges out of popular. I make the treads and risers out of 2 x 12, 2x10 No. 2 KD HT spruce, depending on the size of rise and run. Then I glue and screw the case together.
What I am trying to determine is am I using the best and/or proper wood for the stringers? Is there a better grade of wood that would make them "more better".
I beleive that these stairs are rough stringer and I will "finish them with a hardwood or carpet later once the wood is "acclimatized" to the houses conditions. I will take into consideration the floor finishes top and bottom to allow for proper consistancy between the rises.
I guess I didn't think that I needed to get into all of this to find out what the best type of wood for these stringer is.
Once again, I apologize for any aggravation this thread cause and really do appreciate any and all info given.
I thought I was being advised to use 2x12 oak for stringers and I thought that was a joke.
respectfully,
screwy
I am clearly not an expert at stair building but have but sets in the past. Normally I use 2 x 12 No. 2 spruce KD HT. The sets I have built in the past have been for my basement, to my bonus room over my garage, my deck, and in my barn. This set will be my "main" staircase, so I really want these to be solid and as proper as I can.
Normally I lay out my stringers and router out the pockets that will accept the treads and risers. I make the wedges out of popular. I make the treads and risers out of 2 x 12, 2x10 No. 2 KD HT spruce, depending on the size of rise and run. Then I glue and screw the case together.
What I am trying to determine is am I using the best and/or proper wood for the stringers? Is there a better grade of wood that would make them "more better".
I beleive that these stairs are rough stringer and I will "finish them with a hardwood or carpet later once the wood is "acclimatized" to the houses conditions. I will take into consideration the floor finishes top and bottom to allow for proper consistancy between the rises.
I guess I didn't think that I needed to get into all of this to find out what the best type of wood for these stringer is.
Once again, I apologize for any aggravation this thread cause and really do appreciate any and all info given.
I thought I was being advised to use 2x12 oak for stringers and I thought that was a joke.
respectfully,
screwy
Joined
·
273 Posts
Housed stairs are finished stairs, there isn't a sub-tread. Treads and risers may be any material you choose. They may be either a suitable hardwood or an exotic wood veneered onto a substrate. The stringers can be poplar or an lvl or built up plywood and then veneered. Everything is then wedged, glued and screwed.
Joined
·
737 Posts
There is confusion here. If you are using housed stringers ( or what you are referring to as closed stringers), then there is no need for any additional framing. You are talking about using 2x material for your stairs and then will be finishing it with hardwood. This is built different than from the housed stringer method.
LVL's are the best to frame out a stair. They are strong and straight, but regular 2x10 or 2x12's will be fine to use. Just make sure they dont have any splits in them or large checks.
LVL's are the best to frame out a stair. They are strong and straight, but regular 2x10 or 2x12's will be fine to use. Just make sure they dont have any splits in them or large checks.
Joined
·
273 Posts
Hold on,
I think you might benefit by describing your proposed method in greater detail and what you are starting with before going off and buying material.
I think you might benefit by describing your proposed method in greater detail and what you are starting with before going off and buying material.
Joined
·
1,586 Posts
I wouldn't waste the money on LVL's. I am sure they would be nice, but they will also be expensive and harder to cut. Unless you are dealing with some ridiculous span, I would stick with 2x12 either spruce or fir. I like the spruce, as it tends to not split as much. Use a lot of glue when you attach your finish treads and risers. We usually pack out against a stue wall with a 2x4 which leaves room for drywall and a 1x skirt board. Don't make this space too tight. Leave an extra 1/4". You will insert the skirt first, and then the treads and risers can be fitted to make everything tight.
Joined
·
273 Posts
These are to be housed stairs, not framer built.
Joined
·
1,586 Posts
Here he says " I believe these stairs are rough stringer" So is the stringer rough, or finished?
Joined
·
273 Posts
Maybe I'm confused. In the 3rd post he talks about mortising the skirt and using wedges.
As a stair guy I agree with everything you said except not using lvl's. Most framing lumber is not dry enough when it is delivered. The framer may well build the stairs dead level when first installed but by the time I get there they have dried out more and now all the treads pitch toward the nosings. Believe me I have to add a lot more to the cost of the bid to fix that the lvl's would ever cost.
As a stair guy I agree with everything you said except not using lvl's. Most framing lumber is not dry enough when it is delivered. The framer may well build the stairs dead level when first installed but by the time I get there they have dried out more and now all the treads pitch toward the nosings. Believe me I have to add a lot more to the cost of the bid to fix that the lvl's would ever cost.
Ok I'll try to explain the proposed process.
I am building a set of stairs that will go up to a quarter landing then from the landing to the second floor.
They will be 36" wide. I have built the landing after reinforcing the floor joists adequately. The landing is 36" x 48", the first set of stairs will sit against the face of the 48" face. The upper set of stairs will sit upon the landing 8 1/2".
My plan is to use 2 pcs. 2 x 12 x 10ft. for the lower set. 1 pcs. 2 x 12 x 12 cut in half for the upper set. I will layout my rise and runs to make a housed stringer. I will router out the pocket, I have done one set before with a circular saw and chisel and made a set with a router. They will look like this when I am done http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/image-files/housed-string.gif.
The pockets will allow for a 2x tread and a poplar wedge. I will make the pockets 3/4" deep.
I will use 2 x 10 x 12 cut to 4 boards 34 1/2" long to make treads. I will use 2 x 8 x 12 to make the risers.
I will cut poplar wedges to match the angle cut on the bottom of the pocket.
I will glue and screw the tread and riser will making sure the stairs are square. I will glue and brad nail the wedges in place.
I will tiling the floor at the bottom of the stairs and this will be 3/4 higher than the sub floor that the stairs sit on. The upstairs will be carpet so I have allowed for the hieght difference. Not sure how I will finish the stairs so I am allowing for 3/4" for hardwood, if I carpet I will build up with plywood to make the rises proper.
I hope I have explained myself well enough for you to understand. I have built these stairs in the past and I really just want to use the best material. I was going to look at the price of LVL but I think I will be using the 2 x's My lumber yard normally has great lumber and I have a good relationship with the yard guys.
Please let me know if you think I am making any mistakes.
I want a solid squeak free house. Thats why I am a bit screwy
.
I am building a set of stairs that will go up to a quarter landing then from the landing to the second floor.
They will be 36" wide. I have built the landing after reinforcing the floor joists adequately. The landing is 36" x 48", the first set of stairs will sit against the face of the 48" face. The upper set of stairs will sit upon the landing 8 1/2".
My plan is to use 2 pcs. 2 x 12 x 10ft. for the lower set. 1 pcs. 2 x 12 x 12 cut in half for the upper set. I will layout my rise and runs to make a housed stringer. I will router out the pocket, I have done one set before with a circular saw and chisel and made a set with a router. They will look like this when I am done http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/image-files/housed-string.gif.
The pockets will allow for a 2x tread and a poplar wedge. I will make the pockets 3/4" deep.
I will use 2 x 10 x 12 cut to 4 boards 34 1/2" long to make treads. I will use 2 x 8 x 12 to make the risers.
I will cut poplar wedges to match the angle cut on the bottom of the pocket.
I will glue and screw the tread and riser will making sure the stairs are square. I will glue and brad nail the wedges in place.
I will tiling the floor at the bottom of the stairs and this will be 3/4 higher than the sub floor that the stairs sit on. The upstairs will be carpet so I have allowed for the hieght difference. Not sure how I will finish the stairs so I am allowing for 3/4" for hardwood, if I carpet I will build up with plywood to make the rises proper.
I hope I have explained myself well enough for you to understand. I have built these stairs in the past and I really just want to use the best material. I was going to look at the price of LVL but I think I will be using the 2 x's My lumber yard normally has great lumber and I have a good relationship with the yard guys.
Please let me know if you think I am making any mistakes.
I want a solid squeak free house. Thats why I am a bit screwy
.1 - 20 of 28 Posts
