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Building Partition Walls

1732 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Gary in WA
I want to put up some non load bearing walls in our basement, but I want to build them and lift the in place.

Now one site said you measure from the joist to the floor and subtract 2 7/8 from that measurement to account for the top and bottom plates. A 2 x 4 is 1 1/2 inches thick so this doesn't leave you enough room.

Does this make sense?
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I wouldn’t “build and stand” walls in a basement, I’d stick frame them in place.
If you build and stand, always allow at least 1/4" play. If the walls are too tight, you will bow the studs, or lift the floor above. If you make them loose, you can shim them after they are up. I build mine in place also. We use a laser which works great in a basement. Too many obstructions in most basements to build and stand.
You can also build the studs and top plate on the floor, then slide them over the bottom plate if you want the wall tighter. If you have room, building and standing the whole thing is the easiest, I think. (Do leave the 1/4" as mentioned, as the wall is longer across the plates (diagonally) than along the face of the studs.) Once in place, shim as suggested or just Paslode-nail several nails into the above floor joists. Unless you are doing karate kicks on the wall, it ain't goin' anywhere. Glue, drill and anchor bolt, or Ramset the bottom plate to the concrete.
Unless the slab is newer and you know there is a vapor barrier under it, use a sill sealer for a thermal/ capillary break so the studding doesn't rot out later from wicking;

Thanks for the info guys.

On a related note, the walls in the basement are insulated above, but not below the foundation. I want to insulate the wall below the foundation as I have heard you will still lose a lot of heat through the concrete. Do I have to worry about the moisture being transferred from the concrete to the insulation?
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