[l008com]

My browser ate the first nice version of this thread, so here's the shorter, grumpier version.

I've got a nice clean hole:

And in the basement I've got nothing:

Doesn't seem like a job that's overly complicated, but there's a bit of geometry involved. Where's a good place to go for general info on stair buildling? Overall stair angle, ideal step length and rise. I think I'll do side walls into the basement, and sheetrock the stair side.

 

[ddawg16]

I feel your pain....been there...done that.

There are some very specific specs on stairs. If you do a search, you will find lots of stuff
Here is one link
http://inspectapedia.com/Stairs/Stair_Dimension_Specifications.php

One important suggestion....don't skimp....especially on the stair stringers. Some people might say 3 would be enough (I'm assuming that opening is 36" wide?). If it was me, I'd use 4 stringers, spaced 12" OC.

Basically, you measure the height of the floor....divide it by about 7.5" (average riser height) and that will tell you how many steps. You end up with a fractional stair....then you adjust the riser height until you have an even number of stairs.

Pay close attention to tread depth (how deep the stair tread is). Don't skimp. Nothing worse than walking on a stair that is too shallow. Not to mention dangerous.

Also consider what you are going to do below the stairs. Are you going with an open look, or are you going to have storage below it? If storage, then the walls can be part of the support.

 

[TimPa]

well depth will play a role on your tread depth to not have a headbanger.

make a good side view drawing, including well.

 

[danpik]

Post a couple of measurements and I will sketch it up in Auto cad this afternoon. I need the measurement between both floors and the length of the opening

 

[carpdad]

To add to Timpa, you need 6'8" between any thread to the ceiling. Your hole is determined so you must adjust the tread width so you can fit all the steps into that well. At the last step, you need that height to the ceiling - not the frame, but finished ceiling. You also need to account for the type of floor you want. Finished flooring goes into accounting for the riser numbers. If you want open baluster posts, you also have to think about how the posts will be anchored. Bolting them to the stringers is one way but the stringers have to be anchored/reinforced well to the slab.

 

[Millertyme]

Simply take your total rise from concrete to finish floor and divide by 14. If your unit rise is more than your local code then divide by 15. If your putting a finish floor in the basement then subtract that thickness from the total rise. Just keep in mind your headroom. You might be limited by that. Also, headroom is not measured from a tread. It is a plumb measurement to an imaginary rake line that connects the stair nosings. It's better described in the code book. I always start with a 10" run. Local codes in mass allow for a 9" run which is often needed for headroom.

 

[CitadelBlue]

You are probably already into this project, but here are some ideas:
http://www.inspirationgreen.com/salvaged-and-painted-stairs.html

 

[l008com]

Not only am I not into it yet, who knows when I'm ever going to be into it. Everything always takes forever :/

 

[Gary in WA]

Wood posts in concrete of slab? Or are those bases? Egress windows?

Gary

 

[Olcrazy1]

Maybe my eyes are playing tricks but I don't see wood posts, look like metal to me.

 

[l008com]

Maybe my eyes are playing tricks but I don't see wood posts, look like metal to me.

Yeah those are steel posts, that I assume are filled with concrete.... I hope.

 

[Olcrazy1]

Yeah those are steel posts, that I assume are filled with concrete.... I hope.

I doubt they are filled but guessing under the slab they are sitting on footers.

 

[l008com]

Some progress has been made. First pics, then more questions:

The treads aren't attached yet. I cut them to fit and then laid them in place. I need to route the edges around first.

 

[l008com]

Ok so heres the glitch. Due to not perfect cuts, my risers are all bowed out a tiny bit. The middle stringer is pulled forward a tiny bit. As such, my treads don't seat flush against the risers. What I need to do is trim a little wood off so the back of the tread has a slight curve to it. Like this:

(Tread, viewed from the top looking down)

The curve is greatly exaggerated in that image. The deepest part of that curve in real life is 1/4" at most, but with most pieces it's more like 1/8". That's a pretty shallow curve, I don't think I can get anything that minor, cut cleanly. The best way I've been able to come up with doing it, is drawing out each curve, then using a grinding wheel to shave the curve in. It will take a long time to do but I think that's going to leave with with a better looking result than cutting with a hand saw.

 

[gary.bruzzese]

Can't you shim out the riser from underneath the stairs?

That's what I would do. But if for some crazy reason I had to trim the tread like you're saying, I'd use a router with a bottom bearing laminate trimmer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hkstroud]

Seems to me that it would be easier and faster to go to the under side and shim out the riser underlayment to be straight. Then install you finish tread. Finish riser would cover any minor gaps. If you can't do that, shim between the underlayment and the finish riser on each end.

 

[WirelessG]

I agree with the shimming idea for sure. A couple comments on other comments in this thread:

Stringers - the interior stringers take twice the load that the exterior stringers do.

Posts - screw jack posts have plenty of capacity without filling them with concrete. And house loads are generally small.

Good luck with the rest of the project. I have a thread going on my stair project too, so I know some of what you are going thru. In my case, however, the stair is already there - I'm just replacing carpet with oak treads and re-casing the skirts/stringers.

 

[carpdad]

You can cover that with 1/2" 1/4 round.
Do you have a plan to the finish? Open sides are tricky. You also don't have a post at the bottom, which is integral to the rough framing.

 

[SPS-1]

Are the risers attached?

You could rout 2" wide x 1/8" deep off the back of the riser so that the riser mounts straight.