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3-2x12's won't even work...... 1/2 of 20' span, plus o.h. is 11' x 16' dr. x 45# per sq.ft. = 7920# (30# live load-snow + 15# dead load-drywall/insulation)

3-2x12's, fb.1600, Doug fir/Larch, #2 = carry max.4700#

You'd need a 6x12, Df/L, Dense #2 ($$$) to match the 2- 1-3/4" x 11-1/4" LVL's.that will carry 9000+#. pp.#5; http://www.parr.com/PDFs/LP LVL 1.9E.pdf
Notice: pp.#2 = 3-1/2" beam requires 3" of bearing for 7875#, you have 8k# and need a 4x4 (9200-#) under each end for 3-1/2" bearing. Be sure to show this in your plans to the City/County for the permit.

Gary
 

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Getting very basic carpenter work here, in building one wall. Use a treated 2x4 for the bottom plate, cut so the seam, so its under a up-right 2x4, as you'll have to have a pair on edge,one green, one regular to start with, but have the regular lumber seam under another stud, or use a 20 foot 2x4 if you can get them. Hold together with c clamps (don't laugh pros) and use a small framing square, and start marking off for your layout. Put an X on both pieces on the end, ,come out 1 1/2 inches draw a line, 1 1/2 inch space, draw another line then x. Hook your tape on end pair of plates and make sure your exterior plywood breaks on a stud. Rough frame everything from same direction, on both sides of building.
 

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Once your walls are standing, and since you have blacktop,and have several outside wood bracing to help keep it from spreading, use a come-along in the middle inside up high ,using rope,chain or whatever. You can have perfectly plumb walls, but in the process of setting trusses,jerking to get them right ,walls tend to move, just check when your done. It pays to have a string on blocks, front to back, and keep an eye on it. When you do your outside sheeting ,have a drip aluim off-set piece between the upper and lower sheets. You might even consider nailing on a sheet of that plywood for the walls while its on the ground, or if you have enough help, put it all on, including the window. 6/12 pitch roof, so nail on a 2x4 on the sheeting for a shoe stop if your using neighbors, and nail 2feet up from edge, so you have room for first course of shingles. Elvis Presley music, and cold beer afterwards is like christening a ship.
 

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Garages are fun projects for diy'ers. However, it really helps to have at least one person on the job that is a good framing carpenter. It will eliminate a lot of mistakes and grief and the diy'ers can learn the right way at the same time and have a good time of it. I built a 24 x 36 garage for a younger cousin of mine. He had four of five of his friends show up along with himself. I did all the layout work, showed the guys how to use the nail guns and how I wanted things done. They did a good job and we got the whole thing up in one day, with the exception of shingles, siding, and overhead door. The girls had a small feast of a barbecue cooked up for us and plenty of beer at the end. And it was one of those summer days when it hit about 95 degrees and plenty of sun.
Mike Hawkins:)
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Change of Plans / Garage is now a Carport - Semi-enclosed

Well, I've procrastinated as long as I can. The primary reason for procrastination is that I have some physical limitations and I do not think that I can do the woek associated with a foundation.

The 20 x 20 garage will have to be a semi-enclosed carport. As I stated, this will take place on an asphalt drive. I plan to cut openings and "plant" posts as need to support the structure.
I still plan to have the 11 trusses built 5/12, 12" overhang. What spacing should I use for the support posts?
Help with materials list and everything will be appreciated.

Am I all wet in doing this or can I make it work.
Thank you again

Barry
 

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Everyone I know that has "settled" for a car port say the same thing: should have spent the extra for a real garage!

If you can't do the footing/concrete work, hire it out. Yeah, it adds to price (couple grand perhaps in labor), but do it once and do it right. Concrete work should always be done by experienced people because it is the foundation of any structure and you do not want it cracking, settling, etc.

Lots of people have already given you lots of advice on a garage, so take the advice and build a true garage.

Just my 2Cents.
 

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This idea may not be code approved but you could do this, since you were going to dig for post anyway. Snap chalk lines on the blacktop,make sure the x measurements (corner to corner the same) use a pick or a jack hammer and dig down at least 3 feet both corners and two holes in the middle. The idea here is to pour a concrete beam on the blacktop and in the holes all level, so you'll have a good base to work from. Just use re-bar in all the concrete. The framing lumber used here can be lumber that you'll need for the building itself. Just get some threaded rod to keep the concrete from spreading in the form work (lots of them). Bury some L bolts in the concrete to hold walls down. You must have a level base to work from or you'll fight it from the start. If you get the building out of square it'll show up in the shingles.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Everyone I know that has "settled" for a car port say the same thing: should have spent the extra for a real garage!

If you can't do the footing/concrete work, hire it out. Yeah, it adds to price (couple grand perhaps in labor), but do it once and do it right. Concrete work should always be done by experienced people because it is the foundation of any structure and you do not want it cracking, settling, etc.

Lots of people have already given you lots of advice on a garage, so take the advice and build a true garage.

Just my 2Cents.

Thanks, but not an option for me
 

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^^^
<The 20 x 20 garage will have to be a semi-enclosed carport.>

Why bother framing in the 2 end walls while the side walls are open? Or am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
^^^
<The 20 x 20 garage will have to be a semi-enclosed carport.>

Why bother framing in the 2 end walls while the side walls are open? Or am I missing something?
That is the semi-enclosed part comes in. Also, doesn't it have to be strong enough for the 11 rafters?
It will have a sturdy roof on it
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It is built

Thanks for the information and assistance gentlemen.

The cars are in it. I am applying the finishing touches to it.
 
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