[Nik333]

EURO KERA, 2 burner stove top. Probably, older version. Burner knobs are both broken. The second one broke about 2 hrs ago. Back burner turned on & off. Weird, unidentifiable chemical fumes when on so long.

After much trying, I found a twisted metal cord like I've seen from a breaker box ( Conduit? Why metal?) under the stove top in a cupboard. Then, found an electrical cord w/ outlet in another cupboard ( connected to first) & unplugged it. Burner now off.

I asked for new knobs fr. maintenance, but, nothing, yet.
Any quick fix ideas? It's hard to regulate knobs & heat, even when whole.
What are the fumes, possibly?

Unable to copy photo, but here is similar stove top.
http://www.houzz.com/photos/4575361...t-Dual-Electric-Cooktop-contemporary-cooktops

 

[de-nagorg]

An appliance repairman, or shop should be able to sell you new or replacement knobs for it,

might be better than waiting for your maintenance department to get it together enough to get you those.



P.S. I got the joke in the other topic. THANKS


ED

 

[Nik333]

I actually called Poison Control ( free here) & while talking to the guy about the fumes that gave me a sore throat, realized, that it probably got so hot that it heated the surfaces around it. Whether paint, or plastic or what, the horizontal board behind the stove top is still warm, at least an hour later.

Freaky! But, with two doors open to the outside, an exhaust fan, a HEPA-like airfilter & the A/C ( I know a no no), it should get better. My animals usually tell me if there is a danger, they hate weird smells.

You're probably right about the knobs :wink2:
Thanks! It makes up for all those bad bl jokes :biggrin2:

 

[de-nagorg]

Do you have all the broken parts to the knob, both sides of the stem and parts.

You might be able to clamp them all together with a small fuel line band clamp, from the auto repair department.

The worm drive type, not the other kinds, But there might not be room to get the screw part down inside the housing after clamping it all together.

And the fumes might have been because the entire area was getting too hot causing it to off-gas before combusting into a catastrophe.

Good call unplugging it for now.

ED

 

[Nik333]

Good call unplugging it for now. ED

Another question - I can cook if I plug it back in & use half the burner, then unplug. :wink2:
Haven't tried to buy knobs, yet.

But, the outlet is way in the back of a deep cupboard on the ground. I'd like to plug in my surge protector so I don't have to reach so far, but I'm concerned that the voltage of the outlet is different than regular outlets.

The outlet isn't labeled, nor does it look different, but I believe the specs on the stove indicated an increased voltage. 220. Makes sense to me.

Electricity is not my forte. Is this a poor idea? Anyone?

I once didn't know the voltage of an unlabeled outlet & ruined a vacuum, & fan.

 

[de-nagorg]

There should be no way to plug a 110 voltage plug into a 220 voltage outlet, in the USA , they are mandatory to be different sizes.
European things run on different voltages and sometimes will plug to usa outlets, but burn up.


Anyway if this is bad idea, the surge protector will be shorted out and destroyed.


ED

 

[Nik333]

There should be no way to plug a 110 voltage plug into a 220 voltage outlet, in the USA , they are mandatory to be different sizes.
European things run on different voltages and sometimes will plug to usa outlets, but burn up.


Anyway if this is bad idea, the surge protector will be shorted out and destroyed.


ED

Thanks! It is a regular, simple, three prong dual outlet! Everything is jury-rigged here. Owner from another country & maintenance from yet another country

 

[Nik333]

Used for 220V:

 

[de-nagorg]

I would use a voltage meter , if I was not sure of the outlets voltage.

The stovetop should have a tag on the underside stating what voltage and amperage it is designed to run on.

You might can lift it out enough to read it, or get underneath with a flashlight to read.

And it should not matter who owns, or manages the place, in the USA it is to be by the laws here. But I know that many "hacks" do stupid things here.


ED

 

[Nik333]

I would use a voltage meter , if I was not sure of the outlets voltage.

The stovetop should have a tag on the underside stating what voltage and amperage it is designed to run on.

You might can lift it out enough to read it, or get underneath with a flashlight to read.

And it should not matter who owns, or manages the place, in the USA it is to be by the laws here. But I know that many "hacks" do stupid things here.


ED

It's actually pretty common here. I will tell Code Enforcement when I leave. It's a hazard to kids. The multiple wires @ the outlet are easily accessible. The hot water straight out of the tub faucet is 160 degrees.

The stove specs are on that link above if I click on the stove photo. 220V. Different standards in India, Mexico and Iran, I guess.

Learning here on the chatroom, has increased my respect for electricians, and anyone who understands electricity, tremendously. :wink2:

 

[Nik333]

Except for the sad loss of the vacuum, it was interesting when the motor sounded more like a speeding truck! :biggrin2:

 

[de-nagorg]

It's actually pretty common here. I will tell Code Enforcement when I leave. It's a hazard to kids. The multiple wires @ the outlet are easily accessible. The hot water straight out of the tub faucet is 160 degrees.

The stove specs are on that link above if I click on the stove photo. 220V. Different standards in India, Mexico and Iran, I guess.

Learning here on the chatroom, has increased my respect for electricians, and anyone who understands electricity, tremendously. :wink2:

There was a n apartment complex here that had many rigged systems in it, extension cords from one unit feeding another unit, over hot water, fixtures hanging by the wires, and more.

The Fire safety inspector came by unannounced.

The next day there were 50 moving trucks at the place, and the community banded together and moved all the tenants to other "digs".

Then the owner "gave" the complex to the city, now it is parkland.



So that cooktop is 220, DO NOT plug your surge protector in.



ED

 

[Tizzer]

Never seen a 220v dual outlet like that. Why not wait until Tuesday as this is Memorial Day weekend(3 day holiday) and everything is probably closed.
You shouldn't have to buy the knobs anyway.

 

[Oso954]

The receptacle in the photo is a 15 amp, 120 volt receptacle. If someone wired it for 240 volt, it's a major problem.

However, I think the problem may be the link to the similar stove top. Here is a different link to another very similar looking one that is 120v.
http://www.amazon.com/Summit-Electric-Cooktop-Burners-Voltage/dp/B005IHNG5G

 

[Nik333]

The receptacle in the photo is a 15 amp, 120 volt receptacle. If someone wired it for 240 volt, it's a major problem.

However, I think the problem may be the link to the similar stove top. Here is a different link to another very similar looking one that is 120v.
http://www.amazon.com/Summit-Electric-Cooktop-Burners-Voltage/dp/B005IHNG5G

They are both the same approx. size. Would it be on the bottom? The voltage. It wouldn't surprise me if it was wrong. The electricity on both sides of the wall between the kitchen & vanity/bathroom has non-working outlets after a rain.

Sorry, de-nagorg already said to look on the bottom. :}

Edit: 120 VAC, 120 volts only, wire 2, UL listed. Label out of Whittier, CA

So, surge-protector extension is okay?

Thanks!

 

[Nik333]

Never seen a 220v dual outlet like that. Why not wait until Tuesday as this is Memorial Day weekend(3 day holiday) and everything is probably closed.
You shouldn't have to buy the knobs anyway.

I cook a lot. :wink2:

There are a lot of "closed" apts that would have a knob to spare. But, good point about the weekend.

 

[de-nagorg]

If the label states 120V , then your surge protector extension will be fine, temporarily.

But do try to get new knobs ASAP. On another thought, if those switches are that hard to operate, I think that they are on their "end of life cycle".

Meaning that they are probably close to being wore out.


ED

 

[Nik333]

Does anyone have any idea what the backsplash board may be made up of? Sorry no photo. It's a black, shiny 2" x4-5" synthetic appearing horizontal board directly behing the stovetop & sink. It doesn't appear to be painted on top, but an actual black material.

There is only about an inch between the stovetop & the board. Probably why it heated up. I'm trying to figure out what the fumes were when it heated for two hours. The fumes caused problems.

Any knowledgeable answer will help. I can't even find it an example on the Internet.

The building is from 1969 but this looks recent.

 

[de-nagorg]

Formica?

other laminate?

ED

 

[jimn]

Your apartment sounds like a place we will read about some morning where some number of people lost their home and hopefully we don't see any casualties. Personally I would move but perhaps you are stuck there. Insist the stove get fixed or better yet replaced and eat take out or take away until then. I don't understand some landlords . Yeah I know tenants trash places and in some cases like the State I live in, tenants have incredible number of rights, but that is no excuse for renting a place that is unsafe.