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Just looking to learn!
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!


I'm having a problem breaking up some concrete around the bottom 3 layers of brick in my basement just behind the wood-burning stove. It needs to come out since there seems to be some water coming into the basement where the wall and floor meet. I did purchase a hammer drill but even that seems to be very slow going.



Am I doing something wrong?
 

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Hammered Thumb
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You're trying to demo the slab with a hammer drill, or concrete breaker demo hammer? Or are you trying to demo some of the foundation wall bricks or mortar joints (or concrete block?)?

If you are trying to solve water entering at that specific point, what are your plans once the material is removed? Maybe some pics would help?
 

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Just looking to learn!
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Discussion Starter #3
There are three layers of brick on the slab floor of the basement. I am trying to break those bricks out in order to get to where the wall and floor meet. Once that is done, my plan is to spray several coats of Flex Steel in the crack. After that has dried, I will caulk the crack. Then I can start the re-build on the basement walls.
Thank you so much for your help!!
 

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Just looking to learn!
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Discussion Starter #4
And yes, I am using a hammer drill. The hammer and chisel didn't work very well.
 

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retired framer
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And yes, I am using a hammer drill. The hammer and chisel didn't work very well.
There is a huge difference between a hammer drill and a rotary Hammer drill


I do think you will be in for far more than just sealing a crack you will have to manage where that water will go or it will just find the next weak spot.
 

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Master General ReEngineer
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There are three layers of brick on the slab floor of the basement. I am trying to break those bricks out in order to get to where the wall and floor meet. Once that is done, my plan is to spray several coats of Flex Steel in the crack. After that has dried, I will caulk the crack. Then I can start the re-build on the basement walls.
Thank you so much for your help!!
Ayuh,..... That, ^^^, Rarely works,......

Water is usually stopped/ diverted outside the foundation,......
 

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horsepuckey ! interior sub-floor wtr leak management systems are the most popular due to expense of exterior waterproofing,,, we do this work every day of the week - less than 5% of the work is exterior,,, in the end, it all comes down to $$$
try a bosch brute w/1" chisel bit - not enough room ? drop down to bosch max size
 

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Hammered Thumb
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So sounds like you are removing bricks for a wood stove backdrop covering the foundation wall? I gather from your description you are using like a 5/16" masonry bit in a hammer drill (or do you have a bigger rotary hammer you can use a chisel bit?)?Just stick to drilling holes in the mortar joints until you can manually chisel the brick out (assuming you are trying to save the brick to reuse). It'll be very long work. Renting the proper tool can speed it up.

The water problem is a thread in itself, because your magic Flexseal will fail after you rebuild your stove wall. Once you get the brick out and can see what's going on, if you are willing to listen to some of us blowhards it may be worthwhile. It can sound daunting, and literally is to fix it, but everyone here likes to see a job done right.
 

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Just looking to learn!
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Discussion Starter #10
The drill I'm using is a rotary drill (that has the hammer only setting) with a chisel bit.



The wood stove is sitting on a platform of brick that is 3 bricks high. The stove itself is about 3 feet away from the basement wall.


Thanks to all of you for your input. I believe it's time to call a professional just to be on the safe side!
 

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retired framer
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The drill I'm using is a rotary drill (that has the hammer only setting) with a chisel bit.



The wood stove is sitting on a platform of brick that is 3 bricks high. The stove itself is about 3 feet away from the basement wall.


Thanks to all of you for your input. I believe it's time to call a professional just to be on the safe side!
usually when you have a leak, a water management system is needed and that is digging up the inside or the outside. So expect bad news when you get a pros opinion.
 

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MY ERROR ! think i'm confused by gender identity as most wimmins don't attempt this work,,, apologies for missing the ' flexseal ' note, too,,, that's junk in your situation,,, note they ONLY install it on the POSITIVE side ( eg, on the boats EXTERIOR,,, if INTERIOR, he'll get flooded at minimum or even drown,,,
IF you still want to diy, diamond saw the mortar joints to depth of 1 1/2",,, this will require a 5" diamond blade on a 4" grinder,,, unfortunately there'll be TONS of dust,,, so much dust you'll see it in your office :vs_mad:
after the pros have pitched their work to you, take a deep breath,,, you CAN do this yourself but its extremely tiring if not in good shape
IF you post a picture of yourself, could be more specific :wink2: pics of the fireplace would be nice too
 
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