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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I recently switched T8 bulbs on my Aquarium with new LED Tubes.
This involves removing the ballast and connecting the AC 110 current directly to the Fluorescent sockets.
I’d like to set a breaker in between the lightbulb and the power line incase there’s a short.
can anyone help me know what breaker I need?
The light pulls 10w, the current is 110v 12a
I’m not sure which one the breaker needs to be.
I’m hoping to find one that’s a ‘pop up’ style.
I know there is a breaker in the fuse box, but If that goes off, it shuts off the filter for the tank as well
Anyone know what I need?
Will this work?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07NRVVJQ2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A24JGA3DO5B17D&psc=1
 

· Usually Confused
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Not sure why your concern level has changed. Your old light hood had line voltage in it, just not directly to the bulbs.
I'd want to know if the linked re-sets are approved for use in your jurisdiction (assuming Canada since it was .ca site). Just because Amazon sells them means nothing. Even if they are, they would have to be enclosed in a device box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No way a 10 watt lamp pulls 12 amps.
I doubt it does, but the wire coming in from the wall does. I’ve just never had to size a breaker before


Not sure why your concern level has changed. Your old light hood had line voltage in it, just not directly to the bulbs.
I'd want to know if the linked re-sets are approved for use in your jurisdiction (assuming Canada since it was .ca site). Just because Amazon sells them means nothing. Even if they are, they would have to be enclosed in a device box.
The led bulb isn’t the same shape as the old fluorescent bulb, so the gasket that made the connection water proof isn’t perfect. If that shorts and trips the breaker in my fuse box, My filter and heater will also turn off.

The light has an enclosure I could add the breaker in, I just want to make sure I get the right size.

I checked my breaker box. The house has a 15amp breaker attached to that socket. So I think if I add a 10amp breaker to the light, it will make sure a short only kills the light, opposed to the main breaker.
 

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You would need to add a new circuit or rewire to get the light on a different circuit than the filter. I don't know why you are more concerned about the LED shorting than the old fluorescent.
 

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You could get an inline fuse holder. You need a low amperage fuse such as less than 5 amps. A 10 watt bulb is only .08 of 1 amp. When I replace fluorescent with direct wire type, I use double end feed bulbs. This way you do not have both hot and neutral in the same socket in such close quarters to each other.
 

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Please take this into consideration.

Any circuit breaker in the "panel" is there to protect the wiring of the building from overload, which means over heating - possibly, causing fire.

It is NOT there to "protect" anything else.

You have a light bulb drawing a relative small amount of energy via new wiring which is (presumably) in good condition.

If there is any gap into which water vapor may cause problems you should fix it but it is really unlikely to be significant in the Aquarium situation which you describe.
Of course, protection for any persons should be provided on the circuit concerned via RCDs (GFCIs), but that is another story.
 

· Usually Confused
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I doubt it does, but the wire coming in from the wall does. I’ve just never had to size a breaker before

Cables don't pull amperage, loads do. Cables allow current to flow up to their physical and protection limits.


The led bulb isn’t the same shape as the old fluorescent bulb, so the gasket that made the connection water proof isn’t perfect. If that shorts and trips the breaker in my fuse box, My filter and heater will also turn off.

The light has an enclosure I could add the breaker in, I just want to make sure I get the right size.

I checked my breaker box. The house has a 15amp breaker attached to that socket. So I think if I add a 10amp breaker to the light, it will make sure a short only kills the light, opposed to the main breaker.

Unless the enclosure you are considering is hermetically sealed it will have the same potential moisture problem as the part the lamp is in. I guess I'm still not getting the increased level of concern of the new LED vs. the original florescent.
 

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An easy out you may consider is to get one of the Christmas tree extension cords that have a self contained fuse built in to the plug. A low amperage fuse will likely blow before the circuit breaker so it should answer your needs. They come with a 5 amp fuse installed.

They are not a 3-cond. cord so there is no ground. You could get one of the GFI outlet adapters listed in the link below to provide that protection, which I strongly recommend in this case:


GFI protector
 
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