[saturn500f]

We recently replaced all of our leaky Double Hung windows with "Renewal by Andersen" Double Hung.

The installers removed the old sashes and stops and inserted the replacement unit in the hole, and

centered the window unit in the opening. I saw them plumb & shim the sides of the window directly behind

the pre-drilled screw holes in the jamb. (actually they didn't use the middle screw hole.)


The team was being very frugal with the foam insulation between the units frame and rough opening, they

only insulated the top and sides, leaving the area between the sill and the bottom of the replacement

window totally open. Once they completed the installation; the only thing blocking the air flow

underneath is the outside metal flashing and the wooden Stool on the inside.

I was very concerned by the incomplete foaming job but they assured me that they HAD to do it that way to

prevent condensation. In their own literature it mentions improper installation can occur if the

installer does not insulate fully between the window and the rough opening!

Now that it is below freezing our house is cold and drafty. Tonight its 32 degrees outside and using my

infrared thermometer the walls and frame around the middle of the window is 64 degrees... But the window

Stool measures 50 degrees. Some windows are even colder, you can feel a draft, I've even held a lit

candle close to the window seams and the flame bent at the draft.


QUESTION:
Is it ever correct to leave the entire bottom uninsulated?

 

[joecaption]

#1 There were suppost to apply a beab of caulking around the back side of the window stop trim where the window was going to be sitting againt.
I alway use spray foam under the window, other wise there's a big hole there.

When spraying the foam you have to not try and fill up the whole area or it will expand to much and bow the frame as it's expanding.
And yes there were suppost to install all the screws.

 

[epson]

They could have used this stuff which does not expand as much.

 

[Windows on Wash]

#1 There were suppost to apply a beab of caulking around the back side of the window stop trim where the window was going to be sitting againt.
I alway use spray foam under the window, other wise there's a big hole there.

When spraying the foam you have to not try and fill up the whole area or it will expand to much and bow the frame as it's expanding.
And yes there were suppost to install all the screws.

+1

There should have been a bedding bead of sealant installed if they are not going to install any foam.

They could have used this stuff which does not expand as much.

Joe was referencing window and door foam when he was talking about what he uses. The issues with this type of foam in this type of climate time of year, is that it does expand and does so more slowly. It is a controlled pressure so it should not bow the frame, however, special care needs to be taking to apply it in multiple passes so that it can grow to full volume and cure prior to capping the exterior.

 

[joecaption]

Exactly, if they filled the whole cavity, then reinstalled the trim without leaving room it open and waiting for it to finish expanding something has to give.
It would be interesting to see a picture of how they wrapped the out side.

 

[saturn500f]

Thanks for the info so far, I can post a photos of the lower sections tonight.
They did use professional low expansion foam in a cartridge gun.

I thought they were wrong leaving the entire underside wide open.
ON the outside they bent metal and inserted on side on the slot on the replacements frame and caulked down the other side that touches the cedar window wrap. There is a 1x1 trim that sits on the stool against the new window and its cold to the touch. I feel cold air blowing in under the curtains.

The inside comfort level (at the same thermostat setting) from our leaky 22-year old peachtree windows is about the same as I'm dealing with now.

I do have a photo I took while i was hanging Christmas lights. To my horror this is how I found the top section of a second floor window:

Was the guy too lazy to go back down the ladder and cut a top section that was the correct size?

 

[Windows on Wash]

Wow. That is pretty terrible workmanship.

Have you called the vendor yet? If not, that is the first person that I would engage in and open conversation.

 

[hammerlane]

Were the windows bought at a particular home improvement store and then installed by subcontractors of the same home improvement store?

 

[saturn500f]

Ordered thru "Renewal by Andersen" local office and all done by their staff. (This branch is part of Southard Corp)

 

[Windows on Wash]

Call the RBA dealer. That is not acceptable work product. The goops of caulking are a real indication of poor quality.

 

[SoCoSpartan]

Holy hell that's a worse job than my gf trying to caulk baseboards. Def a callback

 

[HomeSealed]

+1 on the callback. Sloppy caulking and trim, and while the method of insulation around the frame (foam, fiberglass, or caulk) is up to their discretion (unless specifically stated in the contract), they are still obligated to install the units to minimum acceptable standards. Noticeable drafts and that trim/caulk job would not meet that threshold IMO. While RBA has a reputation for high price, to my knowledge they typically offer good quality installation and service. I would hope and expect that they will have no problem remedying those issues for you.

 

[kwikfishron]

Wow. That is pretty terrible workmanship.

Have you called the vendor yet? If not, that is the first person that I would engage in and open conversation.

You're only as good as your worst guy...Sad but true.

 

[saturn500f]

Here are a bunch of photos so you can really see what is going on, I posted them on a website to save space here:

Views of the windows

 

[HomeSealed]

They are installed out of square. Definitely in need of some attention ASAP.
Did they tell you that they were not going to cap all the way to the brick? I'm not crazy about that either.

 

[hammerlane]

Here are a bunch of photos so you can really see what is going on, I posted them on a website to save space here:

Views of the windows

Do your windows have a sort of compression tracking along each sode that the sashes ride up and down in. I have Hurd windows and these are called "side balances"

I had one window that would never fully seal. I had the drywall removed for an inrelated reason around that window and sure enough the rough framing was not square. I will try and find photos of that.

Below are 2 photos showing the side balances. Is this similar to yours??

 

[hammerlane]

Here were the photos of my problem window. when I had the drywall off, I was able to shim between the jack stud and the window to close that gap.

 

[HomeSealed]

Please take no offense hammerlane, but to alleviate any confusion for the OP I just want to point out that the rba window that he/she has does not have the compression jambliners/balance system as shown in your pics, nor will his issue be fixed by simple shimming. The window will likely need to be reset to fix those reveals and make the unit square as designed. Even if shimming was a solution, this is an insert installation, so it would be between the original buck frame and the master frame of the new unit. Nowhere near the jack studs or anywhere else in the RO.

 

[hammerlane]

Even if shimming was a solution, this is an insert installation, so it would be between the original buck frame and the master frame of the new unit. Nowhere near the jack studs or anywhere else in the RO.

No offense taken. I agree with what you quoted.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Wowsers.

Bad set job and capping to boot.

As HomeSealed said previously, RBAs tend to run pretty good shops. Andersen doesn't set up any clown. That being the case, they should make this right and get you fixed up.

I would be willing to bet that you call them with this and you will get a call back straight away.