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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to change out 12 recessed lights to new LED bulbs.


Problem is out of 12 lights, two of them won't back out all the way. I tried turning it counterclockwise to loosen but both turned about one revolution then it got stuck, won't turn anymore. Won't turn clockwise or counterclockwise.





I don't want to put excessive force to turn it for fear I would break the bulb and shatter the glass.


This is what the trim and can looks like, the trim has a built-in inverted cone, so removing the trim will not give me more room to grab the bulb.






Any idea what else to try? Tape the entire bottom of the bulb with duct tape then try turning again?
 

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If the bulb breaks I use a real small screwdriver and collapse the threaded section of the bulb in towards the center . I can then get a pair of needle nose in there and slip it on the side of the threaded section of the broken bulb.. then twist. Move needle nose and twist again.. it will practically fall out now as no threads are engaged

Edit
Disregard doesn't look like the socket I was thinking about.
 

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The ceiling trim is spring loaded. You should be able to pull the trim material down and remove it to expose the bulb. If you can't grip the bulb then borrow that rubber thing your wife uses to open jars. If that doesn't work get a roll of double sided tape. Attach a strip to the bulb and then remove the backing. That will give you a sticky surface which you can easily grip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The ceiling trim is spring loaded. You should be able to pull the trim material down and remove it to expose the bulb.

If you look at the second picture you should see the trim itself has a shape that kind of follows the contour of the bulbs, which means there is a narrow inverted cone all around the bulb. Yes it is spring loaded but the trim does not come off unless the bulb is removed. The narrow part of the trim is only slightly bigger than the socket at the base of the can. If I cannot remove the bulb the only other way to remove the trim is to break the bulb so the wider part of the bulb will not be in the way of the trim's removal.


This is not my trim but it's very similar.


 

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One hint is that it is best to somewhat gently put pressure on the bulb while turning. Too much pressure can hinder your efforts. Also, get a suction cup or duct tape to grab the bulb so you are twisting more than pushing upwards on the bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Slide a small flat screwdriver under one edge of the ceiling trim and pull down.




Reach up inside the ceiling trim of a fixture that you have successfully remove the bulb and pull down to see how things work.

As I described that would have resulted in either breaking the glass of the bulb from the base of the bulb or breaking the bulb+socket away from the can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was finally able to remove the two bulbs. Ten of the twelve bulbs came out easy, the last two didn't. One bulb broke off, the other came loose as I twisted with all my strength.


I figured out what happened. These are very old recessed lights, and the socket is mounted on a piece of thin circular metal that slides up and down secured to the can with a wing nut. For some reason the wing nuts were loose so when I pushed up the bulb got pushed back along with the socket. When I tried to turn to loosen it got stuck, and the more I turned the more the bulb got pushed back further.


This is the trim I have. As you can see, the bulb hugs to it's shape closely with barely 1/4" of space around.






The can was made by CREST LIGHTING of Cleveland, Ohio. I don't think they exist anymore.


 

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I've got a similar problem, one of 7 bulbs went out and I can't get the bulb to budge. It feels like I'm trying to twist the entire fixture.
I intend to convert all the cans to LEDs but (cathedral ceiling) some are so high I'll hire an electrician to do the swap and change the dimmer switches at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's difficult to switch mine because these are new construction cans attached to the framing and not remodel cans. It would be a lot of rock lath destruction to take down these cans where some of them have very 10" headroom in the attic and have to be done from below.


Now that I think more about it, I am not sure the socket came loose prior to me effort to remove it. They could have come loose because I was pushing and twisting relentlessly.
 

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3 circuits, 2 have dimmers on them.
Previous owner of this house had their head on backward. Ceiling cans aren't distributed in any rational sence.
Come to think of it alot of this dwelling is catawumpus. Doors aren't hung properly, walls are not straight, etc. We bought it for the property. I'll never let wifie make _that_ choice again if I can help it!
 

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You said "switches" as in a set of 3-way switches. Only one of a set of 3-way switches can be dimmable.
True if you use a 3way dimmer.

Not true if you use a multi-location master dimmer and companion dimmer(s). (Up to 10 locations)

Master
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Maestro-C-L-Dimmer-Switch-for-Dimmable-LED-Halogen-and-Incandescent-Bulbs-Single-Pole-or-Multi-Location-White-MACL-153MH-WH/203486488
Companion dimmer(s)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Maestro-Companion-Multi-Location-Dimmer-White-MA-R-WH/100659490
 
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