Boxing in a steel pole
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Unique problem. I'd want to keep the post at it's current dimension, which already appears big relative to the banister. Therefore, I'd rap the pole in a wood pattern vinyl that works with the replacement banister's wood, then, using small headed screws, apply mouldings to the post's vertical edges and at the ceiling.
Yeah, nothing says quality like contact paper wrapped around a post next to the granite.
The post is already pretty big. If you could get away with 1/2" birch ply, you could miter the corners and eliminate the need for corner molding.
Depends on how good your skills are. You'll also need to scribe around the granite overhang.
Ron
The post is already pretty big. If you could get away with 1/2" birch ply, you could miter the corners and eliminate the need for corner molding.
Depends on how good your skills are. You'll also need to scribe around the granite overhang.
Ron
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Can you post a picture that shows a wider view of the stairway?
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now Ron.... be nice.... this site is FORummm bouncing many different ideas around! there usually is more than one way to approach a problem.
my suggestion would be to remove the metal pole and replace with wood to match your new balusters.
i agree, it'd look like crap to wrap it in vinyl, but that MAY be the best option in this case...i ended up doing it once to hide a vent pipe in our old bathroom before selling it....*yuk* ......but it still sold.
DM
my suggestion would be to remove the metal pole and replace with wood to match your new balusters.
i agree, it'd look like crap to wrap it in vinyl, but that MAY be the best option in this case...i ended up doing it once to hide a vent pipe in our old bathroom before selling it....*yuk* ......but it still sold.
DM
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Can't be certain from that picture, but that is likely a structural column, in which case replacement is a somewhat more complicated option. IMO any sort of veneer with exposed mitered corners is likely going to get beat up pretty quickly in that location.
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Home Inspection: "A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources." - Alan Carson[/FONT]
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Home Inspection: "A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources." - Alan Carson[/FONT]
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Geez, Mouse. I kind of liked Ron's idea of contact paper. :whistling2:
You've got a cabinet to mount to, right? Why not trash the whole wrought iron 50's look, (just take it all out), and install a nice wood stair railing? And if it is possible (we can't see the steps) think about mounting in front of the cabinets, rather than on the side like it is now.
Truthfully, that big post looks like a trip hazard right now. And it will only get worse if you put in a larger post there on the side of the kitchen cabinet.
You've got a cabinet to mount to, right? Why not trash the whole wrought iron 50's look, (just take it all out), and install a nice wood stair railing? And if it is possible (we can't see the steps) think about mounting in front of the cabinets, rather than on the side like it is now.
Truthfully, that big post looks like a trip hazard right now. And it will only get worse if you put in a larger post there on the side of the kitchen cabinet.
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Just a thought, how about tiling it?
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One reason I'd like to see a picture of the entire staircase: often stairs of that era with wrought iron hand rails were manufactured metal-stringer units, and are often non-compliant with current code (open risers, under-width treads).
If you start making modifications to the hand rails and guards, you could find yourself in a position where you are required to bring the entire staircase up to current code.
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Home Inspection: "A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources." - Alan Carson
If you start making modifications to the hand rails and guards, you could find yourself in a position where you are required to bring the entire staircase up to current code.
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Home Inspection: "A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources." - Alan Carson
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good points both posts Michael.
another idea could be using an oak veneer wood 'doorskin' instead of vinyl paper to wrap it, that's the thinnest wood you can get! and then follow art's advise and "apply mouldings to the post's vertical edges and at the ceiling."
just another way to skin this critter..... get it? skin? hehehe i know, i know... 300,000 comedians out of a job......
DM
another idea could be using an oak veneer wood 'doorskin' instead of vinyl paper to wrap it, that's the thinnest wood you can get! and then follow art's advise and "apply mouldings to the post's vertical edges and at the ceiling."
just another way to skin this critter..... get it? skin? hehehe i know, i know... 300,000 comedians out of a job......
DM
Thanks for all the replys. I will post some more pics later tonight.
Ponch(CHiPs???) - If we ever meet and you suggest that to my wife I will destroy you! HA HA I have no idea how she has not figured that out yet.
Artdunbar - No offense, but I am going with wood.
The post cannot move. It is footed in the concrete slab and holds up the house. So I either need to paint it, tile it, vinyl it, etc. I really want to cover it with a nice hardwood. I did have a half inch slot cut in the granite arround the pole with this intention. The carpenter who installed the cabinets recommended that so it would look like the pole was there first once I boxed it in. The wrought iron rail will be replaced with a wood rail and ballusters. Here are some more detailed questions assuming I cover it with wood.
1) I was thinking of joining the corners with 45degree miters all the way up each corner. I figure this would make it look like a single piece of wood. Is this too long of run to maintain a good mitered fit? Bets way to cut a long miter? Post is 4 feet tall.
2) Best way to connect the wood to the steel pole.....construction adhesive, screw&anchor? I am thinking construction adhesive would be good since it would leave no visible trace.
Ponch(CHiPs???) - If we ever meet and you suggest that to my wife I will destroy you! HA HA I have no idea how she has not figured that out yet.
Artdunbar - No offense, but I am going with wood.
The post cannot move. It is footed in the concrete slab and holds up the house. So I either need to paint it, tile it, vinyl it, etc. I really want to cover it with a nice hardwood. I did have a half inch slot cut in the granite arround the pole with this intention. The carpenter who installed the cabinets recommended that so it would look like the pole was there first once I boxed it in. The wrought iron rail will be replaced with a wood rail and ballusters. Here are some more detailed questions assuming I cover it with wood.
1) I was thinking of joining the corners with 45degree miters all the way up each corner. I figure this would make it look like a single piece of wood. Is this too long of run to maintain a good mitered fit? Bets way to cut a long miter? Post is 4 feet tall.
2) Best way to connect the wood to the steel pole.....construction adhesive, screw&anchor? I am thinking construction adhesive would be good since it would leave no visible trace.
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that was my thought to begin with. that's why i suggested a wood doorskin and use 'L' trim on the edges, then just PL it together with some rubber-band clamps for a day. personally, i'd create the trim pieces from walnut or other hardwood, route the edges smooth, etc. but i have it laying around too, most people don't.
DM
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L trim ripped from hardwood
DM
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yes, it's VERY thin (1/8") plywood. pretty one side for recovering doors you wish to keep. local lumberyards should carry it. ask for door skin specifically.
DM
DM
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