Hey guys ive run into a bit of a problem remodling a house i recently bought. The house is 1.5 floors balloon framed 2x4 studs with 2x4 rafters and 2x6 floor joist. the wall studs come up about three feet above the second floor floor joists and then the rafters atach to the top plate. the center of the top plate is bowing out from the weight of the rafters. there is a large window breaking up the framing right below the worst part of the bowing. there is also some water damage in the area from a leaking roof. im really confused about how this house is framed the floor joists are 3 feet below the rafters so i dont know if they are acting as rafter ties. there are also some horizontal members that used to have the second floor ceiling atachedto them in the exact center of the rafters i dont know if those are supposed to be rafter ties or collar ties. does anyone have any suggestions with how to proceed
bowing top plate
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Look at this more like a truss with squares and triangles giving it strength.
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Them remember the rule about never modifying a truss.
So where are pointing at the wall there is extra weight from above and the wall below that does not have full strength because the window allowed the wall to come in at the top of the window.
The window below could have had stronger headers above and below and more studs on both sides to keep it straight.
How far out of wack is it?
Them remember the rule about never modifying a truss.
So where are pointing at the wall there is extra weight from above and the wall below that does not have full strength because the window allowed the wall to come in at the top of the window.
The window below could have had stronger headers above and below and more studs on both sides to keep it straight.
How far out of wack is it?
about the center third of the wall is bowing out but it gets progressively worse as you move to the center. i would say at the center of the wall (which is below the window im pointing at) its about two inches out of alignment. the other side of the house is doing the same thing but its only about 3/4 of an inch out on that side.
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Do you have a dormer on both sides?
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I have a plan I think but first we have to pull it back into shape and old lumber will move but it needs pressure and time to think about it before it moves so you will have to be patient with it.
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My first guess for cause is that the rafters under under each side of the dormer walls are hacked up and inadequate. There is also something at the ridge that looks like where maybe a chimney was removed, where the rafters might be hacked up as well.
Good luck pulling that wall in. You need to check the ridge to see where it has sagged, to pull the wall in you will need to raise any part of the sagged ridge. So is the whole exterior wall pushing out, or is it just the part of the wall above the floor that has "bent" the studs out only there?
P.S. wow, you got a lot of room up there, what great potential you have to work with.
Good luck pulling that wall in. You need to check the ridge to see where it has sagged, to pull the wall in you will need to raise any part of the sagged ridge. So is the whole exterior wall pushing out, or is it just the part of the wall above the floor that has "bent" the studs out only there?
P.S. wow, you got a lot of room up there, what great potential you have to work with.
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I was thinking he may have to lift the the outer ends of the ceiling joists and maybe the peak at the same time as pulling the walls in. .
There are plates at floor level so the studs are just short from the floor to the window.
Thoughts?
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I think it may be balloon framed like he says, this pic looks like a let-in 1x ledger with a block between joists? So that's why I was asking how the studs are leaning, bent at top or the whole wall. That might help determine if the floor joist connections are doing their job. If it's bent out just at the top of a handful of studs I don't know the success in pulling old wood straight. If it's shorties for the kneewall then job got a lot easier.
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Take a closer look that is a sill with cripples above and below.
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When I look at the pics I see first floor studs that have a top plate. That plate has second floor joists and short upstairs studs resting on it. That leads me to think it is platform framed and not balloon framed. Balloon framing would have one piece studs from the bottom sill plate to the roof plate with a let in 1x4 to support the second floor joists. Am I missing something?
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Not really platform but somewhere between or they have done this just over the window, no header for that window below. ?!?
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Only have this pic to show the balloon, and only 2 studs at that. No headers in the old days, just 2x on flat.
OP should return and also show more pics of dormer framing, any evidence of nail pullout at the floor joists or ceiling joists. Best to figure out what caused it so once it's pulled back in he can fix it to prevent it again.
OP should return and also show more pics of dormer framing, any evidence of nail pullout at the floor joists or ceiling joists. Best to figure out what caused it so once it's pulled back in he can fix it to prevent it again.
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Thank you , now i see the let in 1 x.
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I think we have all got there. :biggrin2:
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That's not a problem if the rest of the framing is done right. Taking Neal's drawing, add a header for the 1st window extended to intact balloon studs. Sister your dormer rafter support. Dormer window sill between 2 intact balloon studs. Structural screw connections.
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That looks like a great plan. I just put a brand new exterior insulated foam roof on and I'm worried if I start pulling the Ridgeline back up it's going to start cracking my roof apart is it crazy to just reinforce it to hold it in place so it doesn't sag any further and then just live with the bubble.
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