This may help someone or not.
The floor in my 100 yearold house has been sanded to a good 3/16" surface loss,
leaving the spacing joints exposed more then I wanted for a maple floor.
Along with my flooring problem was areas of spongy / bounce.
I decided to remove this floor and correct the bad subfloor.
Well to my surprise the true cause was that the floor had no expansion. Tight wall to wall, creating small high spots/ humps, giving way to weight.
if I had removed one of the end boards removed about 1/2" s and reinstalled it, " I think" this may have solved the bounce problem.
But again the floors joints were quite large and filled with filler.
The sub was in fairly good shape so I just applied 15# felt paper and then 3/4" sanded plywood.
the floor came out great! So now were leaving on a two week trip so the floor can normalize while were gone. upon returning I plan on installing click and lock laminated flooring.
robert75
The floor in my 100 yearold house has been sanded to a good 3/16" surface loss,
leaving the spacing joints exposed more then I wanted for a maple floor.
Along with my flooring problem was areas of spongy / bounce.
I decided to remove this floor and correct the bad subfloor.
Well to my surprise the true cause was that the floor had no expansion. Tight wall to wall, creating small high spots/ humps, giving way to weight.
if I had removed one of the end boards removed about 1/2" s and reinstalled it, " I think" this may have solved the bounce problem.
But again the floors joints were quite large and filled with filler.
The sub was in fairly good shape so I just applied 15# felt paper and then 3/4" sanded plywood.
the floor came out great! So now were leaving on a two week trip so the floor can normalize while were gone. upon returning I plan on installing click and lock laminated flooring.
robert75
