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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I have [what might be] a dumb question....

I am working on enclosing my back porch, which is currently 3 open walls sitting on a cement slab.

I keep reading that you just cutout the needed amount from the bottom/sill plate for the door to fall into after framing the whole wall.
When I go to add my door and start adding the king/jack studs and such, the cement slab would be all that's left for the door frame to sit on.

However, the slab also has a set of three steps (that will remain), that is flush/level with the whole floor (essentially cement steps built into the cement slab). There will be an approximate 8 inch extension of that slab past the framed walls/door before you hit the first step, so I would probably need to install some sort of flashing (not sure how that would look, as people would be walking on it since it's at the entrance of the door).
Since it's an exterior door, I would also need to install a door pan.

Shouldn't I just keep the bottom plate untouched and uncut, so that the door can be installed ON TOP of it and elevate it a bit? That way I can get a pan/flashing under there and slope away? You don't HAVE to remove the plate below the door right?

If not, how else am I supposed to appropriately displace enough water with no slope right outside the door? If it was flat, wouldn't there be a risk of pooling and water drainage into the door frame?

I'm just trying to think ahead of how to best avoid water intrusion at the door, and this seems to be a possible solution.

PS, while we're on the topic, why is that so common to remove the plate? I'm assuming maybe it's because most door installations are intended to be more flush with flooring?

Thanks in advance all, one step closer to getting this project started
:vs_rocking_banana:
 

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Hammered Thumb
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Tripping hazard.
The 8" slab extension is a complication, I was picturing <2". Is there opportunity to not align the new walls with the house and bump them out the 8", and still be under the soffit? Maybe time for pics.
 

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Hammered Thumb
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You can cut a reglet in the slab, but the beam situation above (from your other thread) might dictate some things. The steps I can't picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In theory, yes. The soffit extends another 8" (ish) as well. BUT, structurally, I'd assume it's best to leave the pane directly underneath the roof beam. The two 4x4s are currently sitting directly below, and I'm trying to mimic that same approach.

This is a slightly older pic, so the flashing above has been removed and has 3-2x8s acting as the beam. I don't know what all is involved with extending out another 5-10", but I assume it wouldn't be the easiest since the roof beams are already in place and solid.

You can see what I mean be "attached stairs" via the picture, it's literally just an extension of the slab. 8" was my estimate, but definitely more than 2".

Is the tripping hazard the only real issue?
Most exterior doors or entryways have some sort of lip/lift to them right? We would just need to step up into the room instead of just passing through? Plus, the interior is going to be elevated another inch with subfloor and flooring (little more actually) ... so the 1.5" lift of the 2x6 wouldn't be as big of a tripping hazard from the inside if I were to leave it (uncut from the plate).

But I am still curious about (assuming i don't build out) the first couple inches before the first step, and how I would flash that area since it's a walking space with NO elevation change. I get that's probably what led to your ask, but... any other options/ideas?

Considering what I already have to work with, thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now that I think about it, could I just flash the extended slab, and then cover with a 2x8 or 2x10, acting almost like a deck step? That way it meets the elevation of that plate and allows me to install some kind of weatherproof to the cement?
 

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retired framer
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Build the wall and header where the beam is now and bump the door out the 8" to the edge of the concrete.
 
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