[TR69]

I have a Whirlpool Gold with a bottom freezer that is frozen solid and all food in the refrigerator is ruined!

I went online and found there is a known drainage problem with this refrigerator. It has a duckbill gourmet that gets clogged and I cleaned it not long ago when I noticed water on the floor. They recommend a P trap. I really dont understand why I need one, so after I melted all the ice I just took it off completely! It just about a 1/4" pipe going into a downspout to the pan.

So my question is do I really need the P trap? TIA!

 

[surferdude2]

The duckbill grommet kept the cold air from falling out through the drain and possibly causing it to frost up and clog. A "P" trap will be risky since the water in it may freeze and plug the drain. Get a new duckbill grommet.

Are you sure the defrost heater, limit switch and timer are working properly to keep the coil frost free?

 

[surferdude2]

If you check and clear the defrost circuit from fault, it may well have been that some gunk got on the duckbill and sealed it shut. Whirlpool uses a P-trap for some models that could possibly be adapted to yours. It's more expensive than justified and may not fit your model. You could make one from PVC fittings for next to nothing.

Model number would be helpful.

 

[TR69]

The duckbill grommet kept the cold air from falling out through the drain and possibly causing it to frost up and clog. A "P" trap will be risky since the water in it may freeze and plug the drain. Get a new duckbill grommet.

Are you sure the defrost heater, limit switch and timer are working properly to keep the coil frost free?

No I'm not sure but just hoping its just the duckbill. I wish it was an older one with a timer I'm familiar with. The part i may need is pretty pricey....if I need it. Any ideas how I can check it? I learned a long time ago that it can get expensive part changing! lol. Thanks

 

[surferdude2]

From your description and your use of the word "ice" rather than "frost" I think your problem was the drain being plugged and not a defrost timer or circuit fault.

The quick/easy fix could be making your own P-trap from vinyl tubing and fittings that can be had from Home Depot, Lowes or Menards. Get creative... keep it short yet with enough fittings to trap water so it stops the cold air from dumping out.

 

[TR69]

If you check and clear the defrost circuit from fault, it may well have been that some gunk got on the duckbill and sealed it shut. Whirlpool uses a P-trap for some models that could possibly be adapted to yours. It's more expensive than justified and may not fit your model. You could make one from PVC fittings for next to nothing.

Model number would be helpful.

Thanks surferdude2, how do I check the defrost circuit? Great idea about making a fitting. Would be great if thats all it is but I am noticing that since I thawed it out it hasnt stopped running that i know of. The model # GB2FHDXWQ02. Thanks!

 

[surferdude2]

There is drain repair line available for your model at a reasonable cost. I think it will be the solution to your problem. It gets rid of the duckbill fitting and replaces it with a P-trap version. Below is a link to a source. As an alternate you could just loop a flexible vinyl hose and accomplish the same thing... might be easier. Either way you will need to get into the back area where the drain comes out.

Forget the defrost circuit check for now, it's probably OK but if not we can check it later as needed.

P-Trap

 

[TR69]

From your description and your use of the word "ice" rather than "frost" I think your problem was the drain being plugged and not a defrost timer or circuit fault.

The quick/easy fix could be making your own P-trap from vinyl tubing and fittings that can be had from Home Depot, Lowes or Menards. Get creative... keep it short yet with enough fittings to trap water so it stops the cold air from dumping out.

Yes it was definitely ice, like 1/4" or more in bottom and evaporator coil solid ice.

 

[TR69]

There is drain repair line available for your model at a reasonable cost. I think it will be the solution to your problem. It gets rid of the duckbill fitting and replaces it with a P-trap version. Below is a link to a source. As an alternate you could just loop a flexible vinyl hose and accomplish the same thing... might be easier. Either way you will need to get into the back area where the drain comes out.

Forget the defrost circuit check for now, it's probably OK but if not we can check it later as needed.

P-Trap

Thanks my friend, I'm ordering it now. :smile: