Bostik TruColor premixed urethane grout: opinions?
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It may not be fair to reach a conclusion if your experience is based on how well these premixed grouts have done when repairing standard grout that has already failed. There could be a substrate issue that caused the original grout to fail in the first place. You could have ended up redoing the repair in less than a year had you used standard cementitious grout too.
I'm not quite following you, Bill. I thought you said you had to make repairs? Was it standard grout that needed the repairing in the first place?
Bostik TruColor unsatisfactory
The floor will have to be regrouted.
I don't know if it will live up to the claims about staining, etc but I have little expectation since their customer service is lousy!
Bottom line: expensive and not as advertised in my experience. Use at your own peril.
BTW, the blog about this product sponsored by Bostik wouldn't post my review.
I had it installed in my kitchen and it was not satisfactory. Professional, well experienced installers used Tru Color grout, which shrunk to half while drying. Installers had not used Tru Color before but had used other synthetic grouts. It's $70+ for a 9 pound can. Coverage is way less than stated on the can. Shrinkage is not discussed on the can. We contacted Bostik and they told us that the wiping after installation must be done with an almost dry sponge. It was. Bostik now will not answer my phone messages(2) or emails(2) as I have asked them to stand behind their product.
The floor will have to be regrouted.
I don't know if it will live up to the claims about staining, etc but I have little expectation since their customer service is lousy!
Bottom line: expensive and not as advertised in my experience. Use at your own peril.
BTW, the blog about this product sponsored by Bostik wouldn't post my review.
Since my original posting, I've used both the Bostik (the new formulation) with 1/8" grout joints on my walls and the Starquartz (still shipping the old formulation but will switch over to the new formulation soon) with a 1/4" grout joint on my floor.
I agree that coverage is less than advertised. Perhaps they're assuming grout channels partially filled with mortar?
No distributor stocks either company's product so it's a special order; with ground shipping and sales tax, the $56 nine-pound container can reach $70+
But I've not experienced any shrinkage with the Bostik or the Starquartz. My tentative explanations for significant shrinkage mentioned above would be:
a) drill-mixing at too high a speed which could entrain air causing the grout to sag/collapse when the air eventually escaped; or
b) not sufficiently compacting the grout into the channel, so that there was space below the grout into which it settled; you can't just smear the grout across the face of the tile; or
c) possibly using a standard grout float when a stiffer epoxy float is called for; or
d) all of the above
I will run a stain test on a test panel I created a couple of months ago and report back.
I spilled some blackberry juice, and put a squirt of mustard and ketchup on Bostik Bone and let it set for couple of minutes, and then wiped it off. Results: no staining. I don't have a test panel of the Starquartz.
I agree that coverage is less than advertised. Perhaps they're assuming grout channels partially filled with mortar?
No distributor stocks either company's product so it's a special order; with ground shipping and sales tax, the $56 nine-pound container can reach $70+
But I've not experienced any shrinkage with the Bostik or the Starquartz. My tentative explanations for significant shrinkage mentioned above would be:
a) drill-mixing at too high a speed which could entrain air causing the grout to sag/collapse when the air eventually escaped; or
b) not sufficiently compacting the grout into the channel, so that there was space below the grout into which it settled; you can't just smear the grout across the face of the tile; or
c) possibly using a standard grout float when a stiffer epoxy float is called for; or
d) all of the above
I will run a stain test on a test panel I created a couple of months ago and report back.
I spilled some blackberry juice, and put a squirt of mustard and ketchup on Bostik Bone and let it set for couple of minutes, and then wiped it off. Results: no staining. I don't have a test panel of the Starquartz.
I just recently had a chance to use TruColor grout. We laid a 352
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sq' floor with a 3/16 grout joint. First we stirred it the old fashion way (the way my father taught me) with a margin trowel...NO DRILL. WE rung the sponge dry and had no problems...NONE. Better than SpectraLock by far. Time will tell how it holds up, but it went down great. No residue.
Epoxy ~ hot water
Epoxy ~ cold water
SpectraLock ~ chemical added water
TruColor ~ Sqeeze the sponge dry
Da....let me see ....
As far as no problems with any grout....Apparently you haven't been at this long...I've got some 40 some years in the business and problems happen. Experience and product knowledge will help you get through them.
Epoxy ~ hot water
Epoxy ~ cold water
SpectraLock ~ chemical added water
TruColor ~ Sqeeze the sponge dry
Da....let me see ....
As far as no problems with any grout....Apparently you haven't been at this long...I've got some 40 some years in the business and problems happen. Experience and product knowledge will help you get through them.
I will add a couple of comments to my general praise of these urethane grouts for ease of use.
These urethane grouts might not be suitable for a shower floor, or a mosaic-tile tub, anywhere where the user might turn on the hot water and let it run and then add cold water later. In these scenarios the temps could reach 140-150F. I haven't gotten any answer about the softening/melting point of the urethane.
There's a new version for glass tile, btw, which uses glass microbeads instead of quartz sand. The quartz-sanded version can cause very faint scratches on a smooth, high-gloss glazed tile or glass.
These urethane grouts might not be suitable for a shower floor, or a mosaic-tile tub, anywhere where the user might turn on the hot water and let it run and then add cold water later. In these scenarios the temps could reach 140-150F. I haven't gotten any answer about the softening/melting point of the urethane.
There's a new version for glass tile, btw, which uses glass microbeads instead of quartz sand. The quartz-sanded version can cause very faint scratches on a smooth, high-gloss glazed tile or glass.
Love it
Awesome product, will rarely use any other grout as far as I am concerned. I set lots of stone and rectified porcelain tile and typically use 1/16th" grout joints, 1/8" max. I will agree with some of the posts that anything larger than a 1/8" you will have some shrinkage which can only be resolved by going back over the job and backfilling the "shallow spots". There is also some truth to claim about the product not giving the full coverage listed but that can also be attributed to not fully scraping the float to remove as much grout from the surface of the tile before wiping down.
I have used this product extensively and the things I have learned to make this product work the best go as follows:
-small grout joints seem to be most effective
-never use a drill to mix, only hand mix
-rotate rinse water approximately every 40sf
-make sure tiles are not overly warm(exposed to direct sun as on a sun porch),any excess heart makes the grout kick off that much faster
-mix as you go, this stuff separates pretty fast
-use only KrudKutter to remove urethane haze
The one really truly great thing about this product is it's uniformity in the dark grout colors. I have struggled with dark colored grouts for years and have always ended up with less than stellar results(shading,chalking,fading,efflorescence) htis product solves all of these problems and more. The extra work this product requires is in my book more than worth it!!
Awesome product, will rarely use any other grout as far as I am concerned. I set lots of stone and rectified porcelain tile and typically use 1/16th" grout joints, 1/8" max. I will agree with some of the posts that anything larger than a 1/8" you will have some shrinkage which can only be resolved by going back over the job and backfilling the "shallow spots". There is also some truth to claim about the product not giving the full coverage listed but that can also be attributed to not fully scraping the float to remove as much grout from the surface of the tile before wiping down.
I have used this product extensively and the things I have learned to make this product work the best go as follows:
-small grout joints seem to be most effective
-never use a drill to mix, only hand mix
-rotate rinse water approximately every 40sf
-make sure tiles are not overly warm(exposed to direct sun as on a sun porch),any excess heart makes the grout kick off that much faster
-mix as you go, this stuff separates pretty fast
-use only KrudKutter to remove urethane haze
The one really truly great thing about this product is it's uniformity in the dark grout colors. I have struggled with dark colored grouts for years and have always ended up with less than stellar results(shading,chalking,fading,efflorescence) htis product solves all of these problems and more. The extra work this product requires is in my book more than worth it!!
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2,530 Posts
I used the tru color on a scratch built shower and two floors in the same house. I thought it worked great. It's been down for about 5 months, no problems. I found it very easy to use and easy to clean up. Just follow the directions.
Mike Hawkins
Mike Hawkins
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3 Posts
I distribute and install TruColor.
It performs probably better than advertised, I can't get it to stain or cause any dis-coloration / fading and the flexibility is amazing. (we poured un-diluted muriatic acid on our test board and it had no affect on TruColor
Some installation tips:
I don't recommend using a mixer, too much air and it will sag and slump
use an epoxy float, when cleaning, wipe first with a damp / but well wrung out white scrubbie, this traps and removes all the aggregate, then use the well wrung out sponge to remove the urethane haze.
It is appropriate for showers and wet areas, if you can allow it to cure for 7 days.
It is NOT a miracle product, there are applications where you should use an epoxy grout - areas subject to frequent high pressure/harsh chemical cleaning - ala Commercial Kitchens.
For the post on the product failure, my guess is the professional, experienced installer didn't use an epoxy float, over-mixed and didn't wring as much water as humanly possible out of the sponge
It performs probably better than advertised, I can't get it to stain or cause any dis-coloration / fading and the flexibility is amazing. (we poured un-diluted muriatic acid on our test board and it had no affect on TruColor
Some installation tips:
I don't recommend using a mixer, too much air and it will sag and slump
use an epoxy float, when cleaning, wipe first with a damp / but well wrung out white scrubbie, this traps and removes all the aggregate, then use the well wrung out sponge to remove the urethane haze.
It is appropriate for showers and wet areas, if you can allow it to cure for 7 days.
It is NOT a miracle product, there are applications where you should use an epoxy grout - areas subject to frequent high pressure/harsh chemical cleaning - ala Commercial Kitchens.
For the post on the product failure, my guess is the professional, experienced installer didn't use an epoxy float, over-mixed and didn't wring as much water as humanly possible out of the sponge
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2,530 Posts
GTG,
Good point on the mixing. The sales reps at the tile warehouse I deal with are very knowledgable. He demo'd the grout for me, showed me how to mix it, install it, and clean it. I don't see why you would go through the trouble of using a drill to mix it, it doesn't take much effort at all to do it by hand. The epoxy float is a must. I think it is a great product for certain applications, and will continue to recommend it and use it.
(quote) I don't recommend using a mixer, too much air and it will sag and slump
use an epoxy float, when cleaning, wipe first with a damp / but well wrung out white scrubbie, this traps and removes all the aggregate, then use the well wrung out sponge to remove the urethane haze.
For the post on the product failure, my guess is the professional, experienced installer didn't use an epoxy float, over-mixed and didn't wring as much water as humanly possible out of the sponge[/quote]
Mike Hawkins
Good point on the mixing. The sales reps at the tile warehouse I deal with are very knowledgable. He demo'd the grout for me, showed me how to mix it, install it, and clean it. I don't see why you would go through the trouble of using a drill to mix it, it doesn't take much effort at all to do it by hand. The epoxy float is a must. I think it is a great product for certain applications, and will continue to recommend it and use it.
(quote) I don't recommend using a mixer, too much air and it will sag and slump
use an epoxy float, when cleaning, wipe first with a damp / but well wrung out white scrubbie, this traps and removes all the aggregate, then use the well wrung out sponge to remove the urethane haze.
For the post on the product failure, my guess is the professional, experienced installer didn't use an epoxy float, over-mixed and didn't wring as much water as humanly possible out of the sponge[/quote]
Mike Hawkins
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3 Posts
Mike,
I agree it is perfect for certain applications, not commercial kitchens or areas subject to harsh chemicals / high pressure wash downs. It has lower psi strengths than a traditional epoxy.
The other downside is 7 day cure, so if your client only has one shower...
AJ
I agree it is perfect for certain applications, not commercial kitchens or areas subject to harsh chemicals / high pressure wash downs. It has lower psi strengths than a traditional epoxy.
The other downside is 7 day cure, so if your client only has one shower...
AJ
Just saw this on an episode of 'This Old House". I always wondered how it worked in the 'real world' with regular folks. Once I let it cure for 7 days it will be OK for my shower ceramic tiles? I'm about to start on a Schluter Kerdi system for my ensuite bathroom and want it to work out well. What's your thoughts on the schluter Dilex for the corners of walls/floors. I also want know if I can get shelf inserts for my shower walls? You know - for the recessed shelves. Any hints/reccomendations? Also I'm nitrh of the border, eh.
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3 Posts
Lily,
After 7 days you are good to go for all tile types and wet or dry area applications.
Definitely due an internet search on "trucolor" which will lead you to the Bostik website and install video.
The video will indicate "grout 8-10 feet" then clean, I recommend about 3 feet at a time.
When cleaning, wring as much water as humanly possible out of the white scrub pad and/or good quality sponge and change your rinse water frequently.
The dilex product is a great alternative to traditional joint caulking, if you have it in your budget, go for it.
The shelf inserts or "niches" are available from different manufacturer and can be found with from on-line retailers. Another internet search of "pre-formed shower niches" will get steer you in the right direction.
hope this helps!
After 7 days you are good to go for all tile types and wet or dry area applications.
Definitely due an internet search on "trucolor" which will lead you to the Bostik website and install video.
The video will indicate "grout 8-10 feet" then clean, I recommend about 3 feet at a time.
When cleaning, wring as much water as humanly possible out of the white scrub pad and/or good quality sponge and change your rinse water frequently.
The dilex product is a great alternative to traditional joint caulking, if you have it in your budget, go for it.
The shelf inserts or "niches" are available from different manufacturer and can be found with from on-line retailers. Another internet search of "pre-formed shower niches" will get steer you in the right direction.
hope this helps!
gotthegoods
Thanks so much! We are picking out tile this afternoon, then the showerhead/system. I googled what you said and have found what I need.
I already have the Schluter shower system with the tray and drain for the bottom, and the unmodified mortar.
I am optomistic about the results and excited to get started. I'm sure I'll be back here for help at some point, but at least I know you are out there!!
Thanks again, Lily
Thanks so much! We are picking out tile this afternoon, then the showerhead/system. I googled what you said and have found what I need.
I already have the Schluter shower system with the tray and drain for the bottom, and the unmodified mortar.
I am optomistic about the results and excited to get started. I'm sure I'll be back here for help at some point, but at least I know you are out there!!
Thanks again, Lily
Gotthegoods, thanks for your posts. I have purchased a $90 bucket of bone colored TruColor urethane grout to use on a kitchen island with 18x18 tiles. The flexibility seems like a real plus, especially if the plywood substrate expands. In Florida humidity that's a real possibility. I thought all was go until I looked at the plastic chip samples and from them the grout looks like it has a very sanded appearance. Since you've used the product (or any other users if you can help) how sandy will it look when used with shiny marble tiles with 1/16 inch group lines? Thanks.
Hi everybody,
I need some advice on Trucolor by Bostic grout. I used it in around the tub and now can not get rid off the haze. I spent 2 days cleaning with KrudKutter and still have spots with haze. What to do?
Dorothy
By now you probably know that it looks like a sand. I have it with with glass tiles as well, it doesn't look bad. It covers imperfection well but does not have that "elegance" into it. I am not sure if I would use it again. I hope that it is more durable and mold resistant than other grouts so it was worth the money and effort for the sand suspension-like product.
I need some advice on Trucolor by Bostic grout. I used it in around the tub and now can not get rid off the haze. I spent 2 days cleaning with KrudKutter and still have spots with haze. What to do?
Dorothy
By now you probably know that it looks like a sand. I have it with with glass tiles as well, it doesn't look bad. It covers imperfection well but does not have that "elegance" into it. I am not sure if I would use it again. I hope that it is more durable and mold resistant than other grouts so it was worth the money and effort for the sand suspension-like product.
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2,530 Posts
Jan,
Try a white nylon scotchbrite pad. It will take it off the next day. Not sure how long your has set up. Just dip it in some water and scrub. Let me know if that does it.
Mike Hawkins
Try a white nylon scotchbrite pad. It will take it off the next day. Not sure how long your has set up. Just dip it in some water and scrub. Let me know if that does it.
Mike Hawkins
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