[njmurvin]

My Bosch SHX68T55UC/02 dishwasher powers off randomly several times during a wash cycle. It acts the same way each time.

Start the cycle normally (usually auto/sanitize)
Cycle starts normally and runs randomly for about 45-60 minutes before the first failure
Notice the red light on the floor is not on
Open the door to discover the dishwasher is powered off
Turn on the power and the timer accurately reflects the time remaining in the cycle
Press the start button and the wash cycle resumes until the next time it stops
Repeat until the cycle finishes (it took 5 iterations to complete the last cycle)

No error codes are displayed. I have tried resetting the dishwasher with the long press of the start button and I have unplugged the unit from the power outlet and waited 3 minutes before plugging back in. Neither action made a difference.

Because it takes longer before the first failure and becomes more frequent thereafter, I suspect it's heat related. Could this be a failure of the Control Module? If not, what do you recommend?

 

[jmon]

It's possible it could be the control board. Could also be a loose door latch/door latch switch, or weak/shorted out thermal fuse.

Do you have a multi-meter?

How old is the unit? any warrantee left?

 

[SPS-1]

Could this be a failure of the Control Module?

Could be.

My Bosch dishwasher (SHE89PW75N) would intermittently power off.
At varying times during the wash. (Although it sure seamed to happen immediately after the sump pump turned on. It turns on several times during the cycle)
Same as your situation where the washer would remember where it was, so just re-start it to finish the wash.
No error codes.

Fortunately, in my case the washer was new and under warranty.
Repairman came a couple of times and played with the latch (most common source of errors). Had no effect.
Checked and yanked on the cable into the Bosch J-box, if maybe it was a loose wire.
Finally, he ordered and replaced the main control module.
Glad that was under warranty - that module looked expensive.

 

[njmurvin]

It's possible it could be the control board. Could also be a loose door latch/door latch switch, or weak/shorted out thermal fuse.

Do you have a multi-meter?

How old is the unit? any warrantee left?

I can tug at the door while running and it keeps on going. Normal behavior when I open the door while running to slip in another dish is that the power stays on and it doesn’t require hitting the start button to resume. So it doesn’t seem to fit a “open door” scenario (unless it times out after X number of minutes and turns the power off).

I do have a multimeter. Where is the thermal fuse located?

No warranty.

 

[njmurvin]

Could be.

My Bosch dishwasher (SHE89PW75N) would intermittently power off.
At varying times during the wash. (Although it sure seamed to happen immediately after the sump pump turned on. It turns on several times during the cycle)
Same as your situation where the washer would remember where it was, so just re-start it to finish the wash.
No error codes.

Fortunately, in my case the washer was new and under warranty.
Repairman came a couple of times and played with the latch (most common source of errors). Had no effect.
Checked and yanked on the cable into the Bosch J-box, if maybe it was a loose wire.
Finally, he ordered and replaced the main control module.
Glad that was under warranty - that module looked expensive.

I found a new control module online for $141. Not sure it’s worth it to gamble on that being the issue as the unit is 8 years old. Plus some of the rack components have rusted out and need replacing. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a new dishwasher.

 

[jmon]

I found a new control module online for $141. Not sure it’s worth it to gamble on that being the issue as the unit is 8 years old. Plus some of the rack components have rusted out and need replacing. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a new dishwasher.

I agree, Check the local box and appliance stores, most of them are offering 10-40 percent off sale this time of year. Good time to buy a new one.

 

[jmon]

I can tug at the door while running and it keeps on going. Normal behavior when I open the door while running to slip in another dish is that the power stays on and it doesn’t require hitting the start button to resume. So it doesn’t seem to fit a “open door” scenario (unless it times out after X number of minutes and turns the power off).

I do have a multimeter. Where is the thermal fuse located?

No warranty.

It's a pia and time consuming. You have to remove/disassemble the dishwasher.

I can post a utube video you can watch to see if it's something you would like to do.

I agree, more than likely it's the control board. Of course it's the most expensive part of the dishwasher. If you can swing it, as you mentioned, biting the bullet and go new. Good sales going on right now at local box/appliance stores. Just a suggestion.

 

[Let it Snow]

There is a recall because Bosch Dishwashers catch fire.
BSH Home Appliances Expands Recall of Dishwashers Due to Fire Hazard

 

[njmurvin]

It's a pia and time consuming. You have to remove/disassemble the dishwasher.

I can post a utube video you can watch to see if it's something you would like to do.

I agree, more than likely it's the control board. Of course it's the most expensive part of the dishwasher. If you can swing it, as you mentioned, biting the bullet and go new. Good sales going on right now at local box/appliance stores. Just a suggestion.

I inspected the latch more closely and it appears to be functioning properly (at least physically). And when I open the door, it pauses operation and resumes when I close it. So, I'm back to the control module. I searched for a video showing the procedure for replacing the control module and the only one I could find has to be rented. Is that the one you're referring to? It's not exactly the same part but I have a feeling it's in the same location in the unit as mine - in the base as opposed to in the door like some other models (wouldn't that be nice!).

After doing some research on new units, I might be willing to take a shot at repairing this one - depending on the degree of difficulty of the repair. I might also consider hiring a pro to do it. Any idea what the labor charge might be (ballpark)?

 

[SPS-1]

When I tried to think back, at first I remembered it was on the RH side, near the bottom. Need to pull out the washer.
Then I remembered he had trouble getting it to start, made a phone call to I think Bosch, and concluded he had the wrong controller.
Ordered and came back 5 weeks later with the right controller. Had significant difficulty getting something plugged in, but for a guy that had done that perhaps dozens of times, it still only took him a few minutes.
I don't really recall if there was an initialization routine.

 

[jmon]

I inspected the latch more closely and it appears to be functioning properly (at least physically). And when I open the door, it pauses operation and resumes when I close it. So, I'm back to the control module. I searched for a video showing the procedure for replacing the control module and the only one I could find has to be rented. Is that the one you're referring to? It's not exactly the same part but I have a feeling it's in the same location in the unit as mine - in the base as opposed to in the door like some other models (wouldn't that be nice!).

After doing some research on new units, I might be willing to take a shot at repairing this one - depending on the degree of difficulty of the repair. I might also consider hiring a pro to do it. Any idea what the labor charge might be (ballpark)?

one video was for control module replacement which in my opinion, should be no problem for you to diy. Ezpz.

Imo, a tech is going cost you 150 dollars for coming out and doing a diagnostic, plus parts, labor (125-150 dollars @hour) and tax depending on your location. Every location is different so you'll have to check locally for current prices. So hiring a tech to come out could get expensive, even for just one hour.

The second video was thermister replacement which is the pia one. You can watch both of them and see if it's something you like to diy, hire a tech, or buy a new machine. Just do the math first and see which solution comes out better for you. Your call.

 

[njmurvin]

Thank you!!! These will be great. After I watch these I’ll decide whether to replace both (while I have it out) or just the control module.

 

[njmurvin]

After watching the first video, my model has the control module in the base of the dishwasher- not in the door like the one in the video. I believe it’s on the right side (looking from the front). The only video that I could find for a control module in that location (and even that one is a different part number) has to be rented for $7.50 for 30 days. It’s worth it but I didn’t want to spring for it until I decided to tackle this myself.

 

[ZTMAN]

I just replaced my control module on my GE a few weeks ago. New dishwasher is being delivered Thursday.

 

[jmon]

After watching the first video, my model has the control module in the base of the dishwasher- not in the door like the one in the video. I believe it’s on the right side (looking from the front). The only video that I could find for a control module in that location (and even that one is a different part number) has to be rented for $7.50 for 30 days. It’s worth it but I didn’t want to spring for it until I decided to tackle this myself.

According to the exploded view diagram, the control panel/board should be at the top of your door. Seems like it would still be pretty straight forward to replace it as a diyer.

That model bosch dishwasher and control board is no longer manufactured. But there is a substitute control board for it. Probably can find one on ebay to. Go to link and click on control panel.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/25xancm7wp-001794/bosch-shx68t55uc-02-dishwasher-parts

Hope everything works out for you @njmurvin

 

[ZTMAN]

According to the exploded view diagram, the control panel/board should be at the top of your door. Seems like it would still be pretty straight forward to replace it as a diyer.

That model bosch dishwasher and control board is no longer manufactured. But there is a substitute control board for it. Probably can find one on ebay to. Go to link and click on control panel.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/25xancm7wp-001794/bosch-shx68t55uc-02-dishwasher-parts

Hope everything works out for you @njmurvin

Look at the diagram for the base. The control board is part 510. That is the problem I ran into with GE. They have a part called control board that is under the door controls, but the control board that is the brains of the machine is in the base

 

[njmurvin]

Look at the diagram for the base. The control board is part 510. That is the problem I ran into with GE. They have a part called control board that is under the door controls, but the control board that is the brains of the machine is in the base

Exactly!! I think the functions of those two controllers are combined in the models that have mechanical buttons on the right side of the door. In those models, I think the in-door module serves both purposes (manages the button operations and the master brain). I'm assuming that, because mine has two parts (as you pointed out) called "control module", the functions are split between the two components (the one in the door manages the key press operations and sends signals to the master control module in the base).

That said, jmon's latest post got me thinking. So, I tested something. I opened the door mid-cycle, manually turned the power off and closed the door to see what happens. The unit was off just as if it had quit on its own (mimicking my problem). Then I simply opened the door, pressed the power on again to see that the balance of the cycle was on the timer and it restarted simply by closing the door - exactly the way mine is behaving when it stops on its own.

My conclusion from this is: either the keyboard module is falsely sending a power off signal (in which case the module in the door is likely the culprit) OR the master control module is falsely sensing a power off signal that isn't being sent (which suggests the control module in the base is responsible). Both parts are about $150 each.

Assuming this theory of operation holds water (no pun intended) and exactly one of these module replacements fixes the problem, a wrong guess here on which to do first will cost me an extra $150. And, there's still the possibility that NEITHER is the problem component and I could end up spending $300 to replace both modules and still have the problem.

Thoughts?

 

[Colbyt]

I wikk throw this out maybe yo save you some headache and money, We had a similar problem with a Kitcheaid. Under warranty so they threw parts at the problem and replaced the control panel and control board and called it fixed. Turned out the problem returned as soon as we ran a load.

Long story shortened: the control panel & board were calling for action and providing power but the pump motor was not pumping. Pump assembly replace and no problems since.

The test is are the pump leads still hot when the motor quits working. A very simple test when you identify the wires. Juice on the wires == bad motor (or actually the motor controller not sold separately).

 

[jmon]

Exactly!! I think the functions of those two controllers are combined in the models that have mechanical buttons on the right side of the door. In those models, I think the in-door module serves both purposes (manages the button operations and the master brain). I'm assuming that, because mine has two parts (as you pointed out) called "control module", the functions are split between the two components (the one in the door manages the key press operations and sends signals to the master control module in the base).

That said, jmon's latest post got me thinking. So, I tested something. I opened the door mid-cycle, manually turned the power off and closed the door to see what happens. The unit was off just as if it had quit on its own (mimicking my problem). Then I simply opened the door, pressed the power on again to see that the balance of the cycle was on the timer and it restarted simply by closing the door - exactly the way mine is behaving when it stops on its own.

My conclusion from this is: either the keyboard module is falsely sending a power off signal (in which case the module in the door is likely the culprit) OR the master control module is falsely sensing a power off signal that isn't being sent (which suggests the control module in the base is responsible). Both parts are about $150 each.

Assuming this theory of operation holds water (no pun intended) and exactly one of these module replacements fixes the problem, a wrong guess here on which to do first will cost me an extra $150. And, there's still the possibility that NEITHER is the problem component and I could end up spending $300 to replace both modules and still have the problem.

Thoughts?

I agree with you, it's a crap shoot. Imo, most of the wear and tear would be in the control panel on top as all those buttons get push/used the most, etc.

Yea, and that extra 300 bucks could have went towards a new dishwasher.

If you do go ahead with your plan with the parts replacement, ask the store or check out their return policy first, some will, but a lot will not do refunds on open electrical parts and some take off a whopping restocking fee, plus shipping fee back, etc.. So you still would be left holding the bag.

Hope you're able to figure something out.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Has the washer operated like this since new ?