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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone here know if it is possible to bond Formica to formica. I do not want to rebuild the top for a table and would prefer to just go right over the old. I have contact cement and also some polyurethane glue laying around.
 

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Retired Moderator
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If there is a way I would like to know it,too.

I was always taught that that was not an option----but I'm old and don't know as much as I used to.:laughing:
 

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Too Short? Cut it Again!
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I've seen products advertised and I suppose with the right contact cement and lots of pressure it could work, for a while. I am not a believer in the concept.

What does the other side of the table look like? Can you take the top off, flip it, laminate the other side and paint the edges with melamine or another paint for plastics?

For that matter, what is the table used for? If it is not all carved up would a couple coats of melamine paint work? Rough up the surface a bit and have at it.
 

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Tileguy
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Go for it!
Coarse-sand the old laminate and apply contact adhesive to both the old and the new and do it. It'll work.:)
 

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Just to add to what "packer rich" said -
Note: "no water based stuff"!!!
The non-water based cement is very flammable.
Ventilation!
No Smoking!

rossfingal
 

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Mold!! Let's kill it!
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I've done it. Make sure your original laminate is well bonded. Like said above, stay away from water based adhesive. I always use a roller too. Especially around the edges.
 

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Same methods, but slightly different order:........CLEAN the old top with paint thinner, then lacquer thinner then alcohol(ventilate well!!!), that will remove nearly everything found in a kitchen, then rough the surface, vacuum all dust and clean again with alcohol. Then contatct cement.
 

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JOATMON
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^^^^All the above....

One last point...it works as long as your existing laminate it properly attached. If part of it is trying to come up...the top layer will have the same problem.

Pay special attention to the sides......

And look into getting a laminate edging bit for your router to give you a clean edge.
 

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Lost your nerve, huh Jim?:):laughing:
Naw, I forgot he was talking about a table instead of a counter top, and for me that is really easy.:yes:
 

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Household Handyman
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Three important words I learned from an older cabinet-maker friend of mine: Scuff, scuff, scuff. The 80 grit sounds good, scuff it up, clean it well, apply the glue properly, allow to "tack-dry" and apply the new laminate. Roll, roll, and roll some more. I've seen him do many older counter-tops and leave them looking like brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
We have a winner

Thanks everybody. The reply that was a help was the idea to turn the surface over to bond a new piece to the bottom. Worked like a charm.

I installed the top first and I think this is a mistake right? Better to do edge first? I ended up cutting into the top a bit trying to flush trim it with the router because I could not find my files. I switched to a 45° chamfering bit and it worked better but it seems to me that it is better to have the top cover the edge.
 

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Tileguy
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You always apply the edges first. Then router them at 90 degrees flush with the top of the substrate. THEN install the top. Pouter that overage with a 5 degree router bit. Use bearing bits and you can't go wrong and you can't mis-cut anything.:)
 
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