Ayuh,.... What is the pressure of the boiler,..??
What's the style, 'n condition of it's pressure tank,..??
Ayuh,.... What is the pressure of the boiler,..??I had a leaking boiler relief valve. I replaced it with the same brand valve & same pressure relief rating. However the new valve is leaking too. The only different thing I see is that the old valve is rated for 510.000 BTU Hour rating- and the new valve is rated for 550.000 BTU Hour. Can this difference cause the new valve to leak. The pressure setting on both valves is the same at 30 pounds. I hope someone can help me out on this. Can't afford the service call charge for this problem.
Thank you!
Ayuh,... It's a tire blow-up fittin'....Hi- I'm not sure what a Schrader is? I assume that is the air fill valve on the tank. If so, no water came out.
Here is what I think I need to do.Shut off the water supply & open up a hot water faucet & let the hot water run out. Then bleed off the air pressure in the tank & when the air is out, if I get water out the air fill valve, I would have a bad tank? Is this how you check the tank. Thanks for you help on this. I'm not a plumber but I can help myself a little if I know I'm going the right way.
Ok,... Need a picture of yer auto-fill,... 1/4 turn ball valve ain't it,...Bondo- I just took a look at the gauge on the front of the boiler. Right now it is showing a temperature of 150 degrees and a pressure reading of 38 psi. The relief valve is a 30 psi rating.
Bondo- what does this tell you? I can't see where the gauge is actually attached because only the face of the gauge sticks out of the sheet metal. I always thought that the gauge was reading the temp & presure of the Hot water coil. Thanks
Nope, that's just an expansion chamber to knock air outa the system, 'n the auto-bleed is the brass lookin' thing on top...Im assuming that what you mean by the Auto-Fill is that large rectangular body sitting directly above the expansion tank. If so that thing is plumbed on both ends into what looks like a one inch line on both ends. It is threaded onto the tube fittings, but the male threaded ends are sweated into place.
I doubt it...Attached by 1/2 inch pipe there is another much smaller rectangular valve that is threaded into the top of the expansion tank. Could that valve be at fault.
Ayuh,.... Google it,.... I can danm near throw a rock into Canaduh...:laughing:Bondo- Where is Chaumont River, NY. Don't have a map right now. Sounds like western, NY. Im in the lower hudson river valley in Orange county, NY Bout 1/2 half hour from Bear Mountain & west point. Closest big area is Middletown, NY. Im only 10 minutes from the NJ border & about twenty to the Pa border. You can say we got it all down here including the Tapan Zee bridge which IS NOT ready to fall down, but it sounds good to say it so they can gouge more moeny out of us.
Maddog:thumbup:
There should be a regulator on the line feeding from your well pressure tank, limiting the pressure of the water going to your boiler. If your expansion tank is ok, then when you drain it down and lower the pressure to 15 psi, you can close that valve, it doesn't need to be open. If you find the pressure dropping after you close that valve, you have a leak somewhere.Bondo- The green handle valve in the third picture. We are on a well here.
That green handle valve is in the line that comes over from the well water system at the other end of the building about 40 feet away. There is of course a pressure tank that the well pumps into. The pressure tank there cycles between 30 & 40 pounds as I recall. The well pump kicks on at the 30 Lb. low & shuts off at the 40 lb. high. There is nothing else on that line as far as I know. It's been this way & working fine until this past weekend.
I did put a air gauge on the schrader valve of the expansion tank & it shows 25 pounds, which now I think is good because that tank should be at about the same operating pressure as the well pressure tank, I would think. You are probably correct that that green handle ball valve is not the proper fil valve. But it's what I have had for 25 years trouble free. This is a real head scratcher. The guy at the hardware store here also told me it sounds like a bad fill valve or expansion tank problem.
On that rust you see on the side of the large rectangular bodied valve, I believe to be from occasional release from the air release valve that is threaded into it on top. I looked at it closely & can't see a exterior signs of mal function. Just that line of green corrosion on the side the way you see it. Don't know what to do at this point. I will need to continue this tomorrow. I have to sign off for the evening as I have some other business to take care of. I will sleep on it. If you need more info, please ask me for it. I wish I had a way to check these parts. Maybe I should just buy a new expansion tank & that small valve thats attached to it & see what happens. After all it is 25 years old.
Watertown, NY. I had to go to watertown many years ago on business. Flew up, from Newark airport in NJ. It was mid. septemner. That night it snowed & all I had on was a shirt & no jacket with me. Froze my butt off. It was also the first time I saw cars with ten foot tall poles on the bumpers so you could see what was on the other side of the snow pile on the road. Your a better man than me. Too cold, too much snow. But the fishin must be great. Thanks!
P.S. If I drain down the water to bring the pressure down to around 12-15 pounds, then use the green handle valve to throttle in enougf refill water & allow the pressure to climb would that work. What Im saying is to open the valve just a crack & full open. Does that make any sense to you?