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Discussion Starter #1
Our boiler psi has been maxing out at over 30psi. The other day there was water on top of the boiler, but I am unsure where it came from. Others suggested it was the relief valve, but that is on the right side of the boiler and the down pipe drains into a drain. The expansion tank doesn't sound like it bad and is only 2 years old.

My thoughts are that the relief valve may have opened and is now stuck closed causing the high pressure. I haven't manually checked the valve for fear of it not being stuck but then getting stuck opened. We are hoping to get someone out to look at it sooner than later, but I wanted to get a sense of what may be wrong since we of course just got cold weather. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great!
 

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Fill valve may be failing or set too high.
The relief valve is a safety device that’s only used when something fails and boiler pressure becomes too high. It’s not used day to day to regulate pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response. My understanding is that the relief valve should be popping open if my pressure is over 30, which it is consistently doing. This morning I checked the temp and the gauge was showing a little over 200, where it is normally just sitting at 180.

My two questions are:
1. Could the gauge be busted or is that not likely since the high temps seems to correspond with the high pressure?
2. If the fill valve isn't set correctly, that wouldn't impact the temp the boiler is running, correct?

Thanks for the help.
 

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The relief valve will start to lift at 30.
Yes, your gauge could be inaccurate or even broken completely.
The fill valve will not have a drastic effect on boiler temperature unless you have a gushing leak somewhere and the fill valve is constantly filling the system.
 

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If the pressure rises when the burner is running it could be the expansion tank is bad. Shut the incoming water off to the boiler and see if you still get to 30

CC
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So a boiler guy came out quickly and suspected that an issue may be the fill valve as roughneck guessed. They are coming back out to take a better look to officially figure out if that is the issue. The quote is around $1000, although I see the part is not very expensive. Any thoughts about this cost?

It looks like I just isolate the valve, open the spigot to drink that section (not pictured) and remove and replace. Am I missing something with this, which would make the cost more?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It was the supervisor who came after hours to just diagnose. His guys were on a few other projects at the time. Boilers are breaking across the city because we just got snow fall.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Going back to my last question, does that seem like a reasonable price and being handy, is this an easy enough repair for me? The plan is to bleed the system due to the amount of air in it and replacing the filler if it is actually bad.
 

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$1000 to replace a fill valve sounds pretty crazy. i don't know what they usually charge.

doesn't seem like it would be too difficult.
 
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