With utmost respect for Jmayspaint's knowledge and experience, adding a mildewcide to a paint is largely a hit and miss kind of thing.
Mildewcides work by having such a high affinity for water that the mildewcide molecules will migrate through the binder film to the side of the paint film that's wet, or simply has high humidity. That migration of the mildewcide is called "leaching" and it's heavily dependant on several different factors, including the porosity of the paint, which in turn is determined by the gloss level of the paint.
You want to match the kind of binder, the mildewcide and the porosity of the paint to achieve the slowest leaching that still is 100% effective in killing mildew spores that land on the paint. Achieving that requires testing of different binders and different mildewcides at different gloss levels. If your leaching rate is too high, the mildewcide will be 100% effective for a short time, and then lose it's effectiveness so that mildew grows on the paint. If your leaching rate is too slow, the mildewcide in the paint might not be effective at all.
For all of these reasons, in my humble opinion, it's best to buy a paint where all of that testing has already been done, and you get a good 10 years of mildew resistance from your paint job. By simply adding a mildewcide to a paint, you will have some mildew resistance, but how long that resistance lasts and how effective it will be is anyone's guess.