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Discussion Starter #1
So, I will try to explain this as well as possible. I am finishing the basement of our new home built 2 years ago. One exterior wall is a half wall (cinder blocks roughly 4' up). The builder has then insulated and vapor barriered the remaining top of the wall. This wall has 2x6's running up over where the ceiling joists are which will cause me to install a 2x4 along the 2x6 studs parallel to the other joists to use for the ceiling. All of the electrical will obviously be running in the framing I did in front of the half wall. Will I still need need to install blocking between those 2x6s behind the installed 2x4? I've heard varied opinions due to the wall being insulated already. Ideas?
 

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retired framer
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So, I will try to explain this as well as possible. I am finishing the basement of our new home built 2 years ago. One exterior wall is a half wall (cinder blocks roughly 4' up). The builder has then insulated and vapor barriered the remaining top of the wall. This wall has 2x6's running up over where the ceiling joists are which will cause me to install a 2x4 along the 2x6 studs parallel to the other joists to use for the ceiling. All of the electrical will obviously be running in the framing I did in front of the half wall. Will I still need need to install blocking between those 2x6s behind the installed 2x4? I've heard varied opinions due to the wall being insulated already. Ideas?
It is about a fire in the wall being contained in the wall for 30 minutes or what what ever local code is.



3 ways we deal with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I've added a couple of pictures so hopefully that helps - although they're sideways, sorry! I'm more so curious as the fireblocking is predicated off of where the electrical is in the wall. The lower half obviously has the horizontal 2x4 above where all of the electrical will be. It would just be a huge pain in the a** to have to remove some insulation and the vapor barrier to install the 2x6s to prevent any fire movement into the ceiling void.
 

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retired framer
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I've added a couple of pictures so hopefully that helps - although they're sideways, sorry! I'm more so curious as the fireblocking is predicated off of where the electrical is in the wall. The lower half obviously has the horizontal 2x4 above where all of the electrical will be. It would just be a huge pain in the a** to have to remove some insulation and the vapor barrier to install the 2x6s to prevent any fire movement into the ceiling void.
I see blocks attached to concrete, something between them?

Your lower wall should have been 6" higher for continues insulation, then your top plate would be wide enough to reach the upper wall a piece of 6" plywood there would fire stop the two.
 

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retired framer
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I've added a couple of pictures so hopefully that helps - although they're sideways, sorry! I'm more so curious as the fireblocking is predicated off of where the electrical is in the wall. The lower half obviously has the horizontal 2x4 above where all of the electrical will be. It would just be a huge pain in the a** to have to remove some insulation and the vapor barrier to install the 2x6s to prevent any fire movement into the ceiling void.
Yes you have to get into the insulation to have the wires 1 1/2" back from the face of the wall
I would raise your wall with 2 2x6s and a piece of plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nothing between the framed wall and the concrete - very small gap. The ledge will be rocked with oak over it. What wires will need to run through through the insulation above? Right now the shelf sits at 37", raising that another 6" plus any other covering would put it above the windows.
 

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retired framer
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Nothing between the framed wall and the concrete - very small gap. The ledge will be rocked with oak over it. What wires will need to run through through the insulation above? Right now the shelf sits at 37", raising that another 6" plus any other covering would put it above the windows.
Yes you have to dip for the window but for the rest you have the top of the concrete with out insulation, so you can expect condensation on the ledge.
 

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Yes you have to dip for the window but for the rest you have the top of the concrete with out insulation, so you can expect condensation on the ledge.
This was a question I had for the inspector early on as he's dealt with several other homes in my development like this one. He informed me this wouldn't be a problem due to the concrete being sealed and some additional measures taken on the outside? This is where some of my frustration lies.
 

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This was a question I had for the inspector early on as he's dealt with several other homes in my development like this one. He informed me this wouldn't be a problem due to the concrete being sealed and some additional measures taken on the outside? This is where some of my frustration lies.
Yeah, there is always lots of advice, you have to figure out if it good or not.

When it is could out and you have high humidity in the house you can expect some condensation around the window area but you don't need to build that into the rest of the basement.
 
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