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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to block between two vaulted ceiling joists to install a header for a partition wall. In order to minimize disruption to the ceiling I'd like to cut out a strip of drywall flush with the inside edges of the two ceiling joists, install blocking by toenailing each block. Is this allowable/desirable, or do I need to nail through the ceiling joist into the ends of the blocks? That would mean that I need to expose the outside edges of the two ceiling joists causing me to do more drywalling.

Is there a beter way to do it, remembering that I want to minimize the amount of repair work I need to do to the ceiling?

Thanks in advance,

Dave
 

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I'm having a heck of a time understanding what you're doing here. You've got a vaulted ceiling and you're adding a non-load-bearing partition wall? You mentioned a header...Unless there's a significantly long opening (door, cased opening, etc) there doesn't need to be a header in a non-load-bearing wall.

Might you be talking about blocking between the ceiling joists to which the top plate of the wall attaches to?

A sketch or photograph would really help shed some light on what you're trying to accomplish. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes... I meant to say "top plate" rather then "header." I think I need to put blocks between the ceiling joists to which I'll attach the top plate. It seems to me that I only need to remove the drywall on the ceiling between the two joists in question, and toenail the block to each joist. If I have to nail through the joist into the ends of the blocks I'll have to remove more drywall, which I'm trying to avoid.

Does this make sense? I'll put a drawing together if you need better input, but that'll take time and I want to start the job tomorrow morning if possible.

Thanks, Dave
 

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"It seems to me that I only need to remove the drywall on the ceiling between the two joists in question, and toenail the block to each joist." - Correct. Two 10d toe-nails on each end, 24" on center. Replace the drywall, nailing only the end farthest from the new wall. Put temporary nails or screws in the drywall at the blocks, just enough to hold it up until the top wall sheet goes up, then remove those screws before taping. ( Floating corner) Figure 3 or 4, page 6, here: http://www.gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-07.pdf This way the taped ceiling/wall joint can flex with the cathedral's movement to the seasons, and not break the tape.

Be safe, G
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Many thanks thekctermite, PaliBob and GBR in WA -- that's what I needed to know. My apologies for not explaining the situation better -- I'm not very experienced, and I'm English!

This website is a fantastic resource especially because of people like you who respond with very knowledgeable information. It makes life much easier for amateur remodellers.

Thanks again, Dave
 
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