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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the best way to hard wire a dishwasher and garbage disposal? The previous owners ran romex through a piece of 1/2" flex conduit and secured the end of it inside the Sheetrock, basically just using it as a sleeve for the romex as it exits the wall. Is this method ok? Or can I just run the romex out the wall into the appliances like with the microwave/range hood? Or would it be better to install a metal switch box for the disposal and break out the two circuits to the dishwasher and disposal in the flex conduit stuff directly? This would of course mean more work, but I have the wall open right now.

They had practically ALL the outlets in the kitchen wired off one 20 amp circuit with the other circuit feeding the dining room outlets. Fridge was also on the same circuit as the kitchen countertop outlets. Range hood was wired off the master bedroom outlets. Now I am running 2 circuits for just the counter top outlets, one for the microwave, and one for the fridge. Then the dishwasher and disposal were already on their own circuits, and lights on another.
 

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What's the best way to hard wire a dishwasher and garbage disposal? The previous owners ran romex through a piece of 1/2" flex conduit and secured the end of it inside the Sheetrock, basically just using it as a sleeve for the romex as it exits the wall. Is this method ok? Or can I just run the romex out the wall into the appliances like with the microwave/range hood?
Normally, microwave / range hood is cord-and-plug connected to a receptacle mounted inside the cabinet above it.

Or would it be better to install a metal switch box for the disposal and break out the two circuits to the dishwasher and disposal in the flex conduit stuff directly? This would of course mean more work, but I have the wall open right now.
It's better to keep it simple as possible. The flex might have been sleeved over the NM cable just to protect it from the finishers during construction, and then the electrician never hooked up the DW or disposal for whatever reason. MAybe some appliance delivery guys did...

They had practically ALL the outlets in the kitchen wired off one 20 amp circuit with the other circuit feeding the dining room outlets. Fridge was also on the same circuit as the kitchen countertop outlets.
This was code then and it is compliant now. You get 2 20a small appliance circuits in a kitchen / diningroom/ and similar areas. (Pantry, breakfast nook...) These circuits are for countertop receptacles, wall recepttacles, and NOT for any permanent or non-cord & plug connected appliances and yes, the fridge on these circuits is OK.

Range hood was wired off the master bedroom outlets.
100% correct and to code. Range hood can NOT be on the 20a SABC's and it is usually put on the closest 15 ampere lighting and convenience outlet circuit.

Now I am running 2 circuits for just the counter top outlets, one for the microwave, and one for the fridge. Then the dishwasher and disposal were already on their own circuits, and lights on another.
I just want you to know the electrical in your kitchen was not messed up liike you thought.
 

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Are you required to hardwire the DW/Disp?

Here (AZ), we always install appliance pigtails and plug them into a 1/2 switched recep under the sink.
 

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Are you required to hardwire the DW/Disp?

Here (AZ), we always install appliance pigtails and plug them into a 1/2 switched recep under the sink.
That is absolutely never done here. They're still letting 6/4 NM just enter the range with a clamp, as well as hardwiring dw's and disp's (not many of those here, as most of Long Island has cesspools) directly to NM stubouts.

I've seen a couple of disposals with cord & plug, but never once saw a dishwasher cord and plug connected, except my own which I got the idea from Mike Holt's...
 

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.....Here (AZ), we always install appliance pigtails and plug them into a 1/2 switched recep under the sink.
Same for what I've seen in CA (for the GD anyway iI don't know about the DW because I'm not an Electrician)
One advantage of having a 1/2 switched receptacle under the sink is that you can use the non-switched outlet for an instant hot water dispenser.
 

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One advantage of having a 1/2 switched receptacle under the sink is that you can use the non-switched outlet for an instant hot water dispenser
Unless the DW is pluged into it :whistling2:

That's the way it's been done here since I started in the trade in '74. 20 amp circuit and a half switched recep under the sink. Install the pigtails on the DW/Disp before they are installed so you are not working upside down, laying on the floor.

90% of the time we use a 3 wire home run which includes a counter top recep circuit as well. Since both circuits are going to the same JB so, might as well pull one cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well just to let everyone know, I ended up replacing the switch box with a metal 4" J-Box with a 2 gang 1/2" mudring. Then I ran 2 lengths of 3/8" BX (which has a insulated ground) from the metal box through the wall and out the Sheetrock where one will be used under the sink for the disposal and the other under the counter for the dishwasher. In the event I need either one on an outlet, I can always surface mount a box in the cabinet and run the BX into the box and put in an outlet.

The dishwasher at my parents place is hardwired, where the disposal has a cord attached and plugged into an outlet under the sink. I have not seen where a dishwaser has been plugged in with a cord in a permanent installation.

The Microwave circuit I ended up feeding into a receptical box that will land in the cabinet above it. I believe what was in place prior was just a range hood, and I will be installing a range hood/microwave.
 
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