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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Plumbing Pros--

Would like to add a Hot Water line to the exterior of my house... Looking at the areas where I could "Tee" into an existing Hot Water line, it "seems" my best bet is at or near the Water Heater...

The two options my non-plumbing mind see are to (Option 1) "Tee" into Hot Water line between the water heater and wall, then run the line through the exterior of the garage... (Option 2) Cut an access panel in the drywall, just above or below where the Hot Water line enters the wall... "Tee" into the CPVC in the wall, run it up through the header and outside through the soffit...

What would you recommend??? It is probably a 40-50' run of pipe once I exit the wall by the garage???

I've thought about insulating the pipe and running through the soffit to the back of the house... I've thought about running through the attic, but do not like the idea of water pipe above our ceilings (even though this would probably be the easiest run...

Thoughts???

Thanks much and TIA

Roger V
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Either would work. I vote for option 1, seems like the quickest and easiest.

Careful routing it outside in the direct hot Florida sun. Maybe protect it with a coat of light color latex/acrylic paint.
Current plan is to route it through my soffits to keep it out of the sun... Was also going to put pipe insulation around the cpvc unless you think that is overkill...

In addition, it is 3/4" CPVC coming out of water heater... Was going to reduce that down to 1/2" CPVC unless you see a need to keep it at 3/4"...

Thanks much

vr
Roger V
 

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#1, Why do you think you need hot water ran outside?
#2, 1/2" will reduce the flow by 50%.
#3, Using Pex instead of CPVC and you could make it all one run with no joints and will not burst if it freezes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
#1, Why do you think you need hot water ran outside?
#2, 1/2" will reduce the flow by 50%.
#3, Using Pex instead of CPVC and you could make it all one run with no joints and will not burst if it freezes.
Joe--

1) building an outdoor kitchen for the wife... It is either run a new line or 2, run an outlet and get a little electric instant-on water heater... I think it is easier to run this line and probably cheaper...

2) Okay??? Cold water is being piped in with 1/2" and it seems okay???

3) Never worked with Pex... Any special tools needed??? Already have 30-40 feet of CPVC... I DO like the idea of no joints, and the no-bursting if we get a hard freeze ;-)

Thanks much

Roger V
 

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Both the hot line and the cold line going outside should have shutoff valves on the inside just before going out.

The hot pipe should have a tube of foam insulation on it except that no pipe running in an exterior wall in freezing climates should have any insulation between it and the inside wall paneling or drywall.
 

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I think your part of FL has freezing temps. I would not put it above my living space. Even if it is insulated it can freeze if the water is standing still. Also, I would make it so I could turn it off and drain it in anticipation of freezing weather.
 
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Joe--

1) building an outdoor kitchen for the wife..
Are you just looking for a sink? An instant water heater outside would work fine for just occasional use. At least you would get hot water instantly.
Even a small water heater would work, you can get 8 - 10 gallon units.
Whatever you do you will have to keep in mind that in cold / freezing weather you will have to drain "something" if the water isn't being used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the feedback... I am going to do the access panel in the drywall and run 3/4" Pex from water heater to back of house through the attic... I plan to put a shutoff valve right after the Tee from CPVC to Pex in the dry wall that can be accessed via the access panel... There will be another shutoff valve outside under the sink... I will wrap the pipe in foam... Thanks again!!! Roger V
 

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I plan to put a shutoff valve right after the Tee from CPVC to Pex in the dry wall that can be accessed via the access panel...
Shut off valves are essential.
But any piping that runs through an area that can freeze must have a way to drain that piping. A spigot at the lowest point will work but you have to have a way to allow air into the line. Any trapped water could freeze.
 

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Insulating the pipe will help the water keep its heat while passing through the pipe. If it is not running, it can freeze whether it is insulated or not. Insulation reduces heat loss, it is not freeze protection.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Insulating the pipe will help the water keep its heat while passing through the pipe. If it is not running, it can freeze whether it is insulated or not. Insulation reduces heat loss, it is not freeze protection.
Awesome to know, thanks... I would've bet good money that insulating the pipe would help prevent it from freezing (told you guys I am a plumbing noob)... Good thing I don't gamble, I am horrible at it...

vr
Roger V
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was able to find a 1/2" CPVC fitting for my cold water line to attach the faucet to... Lowes did not have ANY 3/4" fittings for the hot water side... Any sources that you guys can give me, or do I need to reduce the 3/4" Pex down to 1/2" Pex when I make this connection???

Thanks

Roger V
 

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