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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am putting up a 3500 sq ft workshop (16 ft walls) on a mono poured concrete pad (16" deep on edge .... 6" slab ... 24" rebar meshed).


We did not put any anchor bolts in it (poured a few years ago).


What is the best way to anchor the sill?


I was originally going with 1/2" threaded bar epoxied in 6" deep.


Some of framers are saying they want to use anchors.


I have used a few different types ... I have also pulled a few out way to easily!


I did some homework ....way tooooo many choices ... maybe sleeve or wedge?


Maybe sleeve or wedge with a shot of epoxy first in the hole?


Not sure which way to go ... any advice?


Thanks ... Mike
 

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Chemical anchors generally offer the best strength (NOT just epoxy in a hole, it's a dedicated concrete anchor compound). That being said they're also expensive, a PITA to use and messy if you're not good at it. Wedge and sleeve anchors should offer enough pull out and shear strength for a sill plate, but make sure you know the loads that will be applied, and size the anchor accordingly.

It needs to be said that ANY anchor will fail if it's not installed properly. A wedge anchor has very high pullout and shear strength, a 1/2" anchor from some random company is showing 3000 lbs pullout and 5500 pounds shear. If the hole isn't sized correctly and not cleaned out correctly then expect that to be lower. Also be mindful of the minimum engagement depths listed by the manufacturer, and also for placement in the concrete. Placing anchors too close to an edge or too close to each other will cause failures and/or reduced load capacity.

ETA - it's worth noting that you should consult a professional about the specifics of your arrangement. I have no idea the specifics of your installation. Your contractor will be able to safely determine the type and size of anchor required. My point is just that wedge anchors are fine when sized accordingly and installed properly. Use chemical anchors if you'll think you'll worry about it. I've seen 3/4" Chem anchors hold a 5000-ish pound robot on a 8 foot solid steel pedestal and a 10 foot reach picking up fully built transmissions all day every day. They don't pull out.
 

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

They are correct, if the dust is not cleaned out of the bore, the wedges won't hold a sneeze, much less a high wind.

Prep correct, and most all the choices will be fine.

Even PL construction adhesive, backed up by RAMSET nails.

But use whatever you prefer.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks ...


I just have not had good luck with mechanical fasteners. Not sure if it was just the ones I choose or if they all had issues.


I did anchor some equipment here with epoxy anchor "glue". Picked the correct potting compound up at Fastenal.



Drilled the correct size hole ... cleaned it with a brush and with air ... put in 1/2" rod ... worked great.


As you said, a bit messy ... and you had to work quick or it would harden in the nozzle (the caulking tube nozzle was actually the mixer with many internal bends).


With 60 or so to put in, I was not sure if there might be a better answer.


Thanks ... Mike
 

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Caveat:I AM NOT AN ENGINEER

But unless you are in a seismic or pecular high wind environment....I think either wedge/redheads or Simpson anchoring epoxy will both be very sufficient.

I'd use the less costly/more convenient for you choice.

All thred will be cheaper than redheads but that Simson two part epoxy is pricey.

Both systems require correct prep/install....(In fact, in Cali seismic areas, Cali code requires a third part epoxy inspector present when using epoxy..)
 

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The adhesive (epoxy) anchorage system are very strong ***If done correctly***. If the holes aren't properly cleaned, the pullout strength can be zero. If the two parts aren't mixed thoroughly, the epoxy may not set up, and the pullout and shear capacity are near zero.


The wedge anchors are fairly easy to get right. Just drill the right size hole, and they'll hold. For those, I suggest installing using an extra nut threaded almost flush to the end of the bolt, (and one near the bottom of the threads to drive the sleeve in) to give you something besides the end of the bolt to pound on, so you don't mangle the bolt threads.


I'm not familiar with the Rocktite, but I suspect you have to drill much larger holes for it than for the mechanical anchors or the epoxy, so that's something to look into and consider.
 

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The adhesive (epoxy) anchorage system are very strong ***If done correctly***. If the holes aren't properly cleaned, the pullout strength can be zero. If the two parts aren't mixed thoroughly, the epoxy may not set up, and the pullout and shear capacity are near zero.


The wedge anchors are fairly easy to get right. Just drill the right size hole, and they'll hold. For those, I suggest installing using an extra nut threaded almost flush to the end of the bolt, (and one near the bottom of the threads to drive the sleeve in) to give you something besides the end of the bolt to pound on, so you don't mangle the bolt threads.


I'm not familiar with the Rocktite, but I suspect you have to drill much larger holes for it than for the mechanical anchors or the epoxy, so that's something to look into and consider.
If you look on a lot of the chemical anchor installation i structions, the holes are required to be 100% dust free. This usually means washing out the hole with water and letting it dry. It's one of the reasons I dislike using them... However they are a necessity for some of our installations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks so very much again !!!


I am just finishing the pad (had to re-insulate the edge). I got three quotes in today for framing up the building.


I have a lot of little details that seem to be scratching my head.


Each builder seems to have a different idea.


I am sure they will all work but I am not sure which is "best".


I am sure I will be posting a bunch of questions over then next few months.


Thanks so much again !


Mike
 

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You have a good size structure, make sure you meet your local code as far as anchoring is concerned (# of anchors, size, washers and nuts).
I'm sure your inspector would want to see that.
Can you upload some pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Inspector ... what is that??????


Oh, I am in rural VT .... we don't have inspectors here.


I built my own house. To meet code I bought some "cheat" books and also used the internet (a lot).


I had two inspections ... one for the septic installation and one for the final just to make sure I had power, a working sink and toilet.


Even for my permit all I did was draw a square on the plot map ... no drawings needed.


Oh, we do have to meet (at least by law) the "VT energy code. I followed it ... almost being a fanatic ... they because I was my own general contractor, I "self certified" the house just by filling out a form and signing my name.


I do want this done right, it is just that every contractor I talk with says he "knows" the right way to build ... hmmmmm .. they all can't be right.


Right now am trying to figure out what to cover the building with. I hate vinyl siding. One guy says Hardie ...another says he hates Hardie. One guy says LP ... other says it is no better than OSB.


One guy is trying to get me to use Everlast board and batten (1/4" plastic) but the local distributor has never sold a single piece!



I read on the web about things like drain planes (strapping the building) but not one of the 6 builders I have had on site have ever done this.


Just FYI ... I am leaning toward board and batten LP (16" x 16 ft panels) pre-finished by Coastal ... expensive !!! ... with a drain plane. This was one of the questions I was going to ask in my next post.


I can't even get the contractors to agree on how to put up a fascia board .. I don't want to paint in 5 years ... I had PVC fail on my house ... I was going to go with pressure treat then cover with aluminum .. but I am getting a lot of push back on this.


Way too many issues ... and a week or two to work them all out.



Here is a picture of the pad and of the insulating I am doing on the edge of the slab.


Also attached are the plans. Don't mind the detail with the block below the wall. I am just taking the wall to the pad ... putting some kind of protection board on the first 6" (cement board .. boral ... pvc ... something) and starting the siding 6" off the pad.


I just got in the quote for the trusses ... $11K


I am open to all help and suggestions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Thanks .... Mike

OOOOps .... my pdf is tooooo big so I will put up the separate pages ... there are 11 so it will take a few postings since you can only attach 6 files
 

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Master General ReEngineer
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I was going to go with pressure treat then cover with aluminum .. but I am getting a lot of push back on this.
Ayuh,..... That, ^^^, is a Bad idea,.....
The P/T chemicals will corrode the aluminum away in a few years,.....

As for the anchors,.....
Tap-cons can be bought in Big sizes now a days,.....
1/2",.... 5/8"'... 3/4",..... I'd tap-con it down,.....
With a good drill, 'n impact drivers, it's quick, 'n easy,....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Last two files ... they were too big, had to shrink them.


I just put in about 500 tapcons to hold the foam and mesh onto the edge of the pad (also glued on the foam) so at least I know how to do that.


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sooo ... no PT for fascia.


How do you stop it from rotting under the aluminum?


Do you paint it then cover it or ????


I used PVC on the house. I have gaps opening up that don't close.


I want it a dark color to match the building so most PVC is out anyway.


Suggestions?
 
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