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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was thinking about this for my garage ceiling. Only need a couple gals so extra cost is not a big deal. Most people rave about the dead flat finish which covers imperfections. However, some say it dries too fast, leaves roller marks and is impossible to touch up. Also must be primed first but I was going to prime anyway. Is the 508 much better (flatter) that Muresco? Is it difficult to use because it dries too fast? I remember talking with my local BM store manager last year about 508. He steered me away from it saying it was difficult to use, especially for DIYer who has never used it before. Thanks.
 

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Thats what I normally use. All the BM paints that I use dry very quickly. It probably does make rolling the paint more challenging, but at the end of the day, it always covers well and looks fine, so I keep using it. I am just a DIYer.

I definitely don't have the eye to be able to compare how one ceiling paint looks compared to another.
 

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I'm one of those painters who hates to see customers put their money into painting ceilings, something most people never even notice, that is, unless it's a poorly painted one. I use SW's ProMar 400 or their CHB flat. Both are cheap, bright white, and dead flat. 508 is the gold standard for ceilings, but, for me, I'd rather see folks sink their money into their wall paint. Of course, if ceilings are all that needs paint, well, 508 will fit the bill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm one of those painters who hates to see customers put their money into painting ceilings, something most people never even notice, that is, unless it's a poorly painted one. I use SW's ProMar 400 or their CHB flat. Both are cheap, bright white, and dead flat. 508 is the gold standard for ceilings, but, for me, I'd rather see folks sink their money into their wall paint. Of course, if ceilings are all that needs paint, well, 508 will fit the bill.
Price is not a consideration on this job. I want flat, excellent coverage and easy to apply.

Drywall has never been painted...17 years old and yellowing. What primer would you use? Thanks.
 

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17 year old never painted drywall? A the minimum, I'd use a waterborne stain blocking primer like 123, if not an oil base. IDK if yellowing will bleed through or not.

I dont see why people think 508 is so difficult to apply... Just use a 1/2" nap, and preferably a 14" roller setup, and kick it out of first gear, and you'll be fine.
 

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Price is not a consideration on this job. I want flat, excellent coverage and easy to apply.

Drywall has never been painted...17 years old and yellowing. What primer would you use? Thanks.

BM046 and BM508 stock ceiling white. Muresco is easier to apply and slower drying. 508 is pretty much regal select but in an ultra flat. Higher solids, faster dry great coverage and touch ups. If you can't touch up 508 its because you put it on too way too thin... very common to see HO's put ceiling paint on at 2.5 mils instead of recommended 3.5-4mil. and roller lines from presing the roller into ceiling etc.
 

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BM046 and BM508 stock ceiling white. Muresco is easier to apply and slower drying. 508 is pretty much regal select but in an ultra flat. Higher solids, faster dry great coverage and touch ups. If you can't touch up 508 its because you put it on too way too thin... very common to see HO's put ceiling paint on at 2.5 mils instead of recommended 3.5-4mil. and roller lines from presing the roller into ceiling etc.
cuz homeowners always buy 3/8" rollers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
17 year old never painted drywall? A the minimum, I'd use a waterborne stain blocking primer like 123, if not an oil base. IDK if yellowing will bleed through or not.

I dont see why people think 508 is so difficult to apply... Just use a 1/2" nap, and preferably a 14" roller setup, and kick it out of first gear, and you'll be fine.
Right, I had to use Cover Stain in the basement to avoid bleed through. Mark Sr recommenced this. I was hoping to avoid that in the garage but maybe not possible. No windows and half must be painted with door down.
 

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You could hit a test wall with 123, if you have any, and see if anything pops through. If its a lot, do the rest with oil. If not so much, just spot prime... Or match your paint the the bleed through color. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You could hit a test wall with 123, if you have any, and see if anything pops through. If its a lot, do the rest with oil. If not so much, just spot prime... Or match your paint the the bleed through color. :wink2:
Right. Now that I think about it, in the basement which gets heavy sun, yellow (more like yellow brown) bled through the joint compound. In the garage, it does not bleed through joint compound. Maybe Cover Stain not required. I was planning on using Ben Moore Sure Seal. I have some and will do a test spot.
 

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Joint compound and texture is usually water soluble. Garages generally experience high humidity. This will cause the unpainted j/c to deteriorate and the moisture in latex primer can cause issues - one of the reasons I recommend an oil base primer. The primer will stabilize the old j/c and/or texture [especially texture]
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Joint compound and texture is usually water soluble. Garages generally experience high humidity. This will cause the unpainted j/c to deteriorate and the moisture in latex primer can cause issues - one of the reasons I recommend an oil base primer. The primer will stabilize the old j/c and/or texture [especially texture]
Excellent point. I can tell from repairing and removing so much old tape. J/C is soft. Biggest problem seems to be installer did not put enough compound under tape. In many spots, no j/c at all. The tape job inside the house was horrible so no surprise it is even worse in the garage.
 

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Gardz over joint compound

Excellent point. I can tell from repairing and removing so much old tape. J/C is soft. Biggest problem seems to be installer did not put enough compound under tape. In many spots, no j/c at all. The tape job inside the house was horrible so no surprise it is even worse in the garage.
If you are worried about soft joint compound, 2 good coats of Gardz should soak in and harden it and give a great surface to paint over as well.

siffleur
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, so far so good! Applied one coat Ben Moore Sure Seal and one coat Ben Moore Muresco ceiling paint. Looks damn good if I do say so. Now on to the walls. Think I will use exterior paint (over one coat of SureSeal) even though some say it is unhealthy to use indoors. Since my taping/mudding looks good, I will use some sheen, probably a step below semi-gloss such as SW low lustre or Ben Moore satin. Assuming cost is not a factor, what is the best garage wall paint in terms of application and performance? Thanks.
 

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Well, so far so good! Applied one coat Ben Moore Sure Seal and one coat Ben Moore Muresco ceiling paint. Looks damn good if I do say so. Now on to the walls. Think I will use exterior paint (over one coat of SureSeal) even though some say it is unhealthy to use indoors. Since my taping/mudding looks good, I will use some sheen, probably a step below semi-gloss such as SW low lustre or Ben Moore satin. Assuming cost is not a factor, what is the best garage wall paint in terms of application and performance? Thanks.

ultraspec500 lowsheen or ben eggshell. Maybe consider scuffx is you use it as a shop area.
 
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