beadboard wanscoat in basement to studs?

Depends how thick the bead board is determines how good it will look. It should project beyond the drywall. You also have to block between studs if it goes parallel with them. Finishing the bottom of the drywall to it could be difficult.

good points. I was wondering if Code required drywall backing as well.

If drywall is not required then I guess I could save some material costs.

Is drywall required behind the beadboard?

^ yes, tape the drywall also so that it is air tight.also, there is a backer trim that works good on top of the beadboard and finishes it out.

So if I understand correctly, using a bead board wanscoating actually will increase material costs, since there must, according to Code, be drywall there anyway.
correct?

most here will not know your codes, but having a tight seam proof and fire sealed wall is/should be standard in every home. just curious, how would you finish out the transition between bead board and drywall if there were no drywall behind the beadboard? beadboard is less than 3/8" thick and drywall is a full 1/2" thick. there are mouldings that are profiled to fit on top of the beadboard but not the other way around

Beadboard panels are 3/8" but 1 x 6 or 8 beadboard is 3/4". If you get into a stairwell you may need fire blocking and drywall. Just for info, The US Gypsum Handbook gives all drywall a fire rating around 1 hour for 1/2" to completely penetrate it.

I was thinking I would have "shims" or spacers of drywall pieces to set the correct spacing. The top would be drywalled so I will have some scrap pieces.

The bead board would overlap the drywall at the top then scraps would be used for the bottom and contact points.

Thinking of it, Paneling is still allowed like in the old basement growing up, so I guess beadboard shoukd be fine.

i stick frame basement walls in renos mainly because the old slabs are hardly ever even which means you can have a huge variation in studs lengths. if every stud works out to being within 1/8" of one another you can prebuild the wall and put it up.. the only different thing i do though is the bottom plate is already fixed. the studs arent nailed to the bottom plate only the top.. stand up the wall first then hop the studs up onto the bottom plate.. doing this allows you to get the wall standing up straight first and it doesnt destroy or pull off the vapour barrier...

most regions require drywall behind the wainscotting for fire code reasons. i know some guys that will put 1/2" plywood on the wall up to the height of the panelling mainly to provide solid nailing