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Grounds. Have the lawn guy mow it.:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:
There are 3 important grounds. Battery to engine which is the big wire from the battery. Battery to body which is around 12 gauge. Body to engine which is 12 gauge or a wire mesh strap.:vs_cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If you're looking for exhaust leaks, it's easier to just hook up your shop vac on reverse so it's blowing instead of sucking, to your exhaust pipe (seal it well with duct tape), and spray soap solution on the entire exhaust. If you see bubbles, that's where your leak is. Like finding a leak on a tire.
That is a great idea except where the heat shields are, no way to get to the manifold with it on. It is a major deal to remove that heat shield. Fans have to come out, top radiator hose so have to drain some anti-freeze. All 4 02 sensors have to come out, the alternator and alternator bracket have to be removed. I do appreciate your suggestion, it is a good idea.

BB I will check them. I did connect the battery ground to a thin bracket on the transmission, that was the only place I could see where it might go. I will do some research to see where it is supposed to actually go. That may be the problem with the lights coming on every once in a while. I still have the stumbling with a loss of some power problem after the car warms up. I had that problem before I rebuilt the engine and still have it. That is the reason for the smoke machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
If you're looking for exhaust leaks, it's easier to just hook up your shop vac on reverse so it's blowing instead of sucking, to your exhaust pipe (seal it well with duct tape), and spray soap solution on the entire exhaust. If you see bubbles, that's where your leak is. Like finding a leak on a tire.
The more I think about the smoke in the exhaust, the more I like your way to see if there is a leak. I am hoping I can loosen the heat shield just enough to see where the exhaust bolts up to the head. I don't really mind taking the alt and fans out, what bothers me is taking the top radiator hose loose. It really isn't any trouble, I just hate to do it and lose the anti-freeze.

I did get the smoke machine done today and I did smoke the intake manifold, there isn't a leak there, so the exhaust and the knock sensor is next. If it isn't that, I have no idea at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
If you're looking for exhaust leaks, it's easier to just hook up your shop vac on reverse so it's blowing instead of sucking, to your exhaust pipe (seal it well with duct tape), and spray soap solution on the entire exhaust. If you see bubbles, that's where your leak is. Like finding a leak on a tire.
Bingo, that worked like a champ and easy as pie. That is why the P2A00 code, the flange is leaking on the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter. I did get the shield loose enough without taking everything off. But now I have to take the manifold off for the unteenth time. Once I get that fixed my troubles should be over...yeah right... lol

I knew the flange was not flat when I rebuilt the engine, it was just too late to send it back. These things aren't cheap, I don't know what my next move is. Maybe a machine shop can flatten it for me. See the photos below.

I really do appreciate all the help, you guys are top notch in my book.
 

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I would replace the positive battery cable terminal.

In the old days when you just couldn't get the terminal to tighten we would temporary stick a small nail in it until a new one was purchased.
 

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An exhaust leak is not your main problem. An engine will still have power with one. Your main problem is power loss when at operating temp. Building engine just made engine durable now. Disconnecting Bank 1 sensor 1 and driving it will show if O2 is the culprit. If power problem changes, Bingo! But if not, on to other diagnosis. I wonder if the crank trigger wheel on both cars are the same?:vs_cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
An exhaust leak is not your main problem. An engine will still have power with one. Your main problem is power loss when at operating temp. Building engine just made engine durable now. Disconnecting Bank 1 sensor 1 and driving it will show if O2 is the culprit. If power problem changes, Bingo! But if not, on to other diagnosis. I wonder if the crank trigger wheel on both cars are the same?:vs_cool:
I will have to wait until the exchanged catalytic converter comes in to try driving with the #1 02 sensor unpluged. That is too cool, I didn't know you could do that. The 02 sensors are new and the #1 sensor has been replaced twice so far.

The trigger wheel in the engine now is the same one I took out of the other engine.

I have been trying to wrap my head around how the 02 sensors work. From the sound of the car losing some power when the engine is at full operating temps sure sound like the 02 sensor, as that sensor doesn't work or oscillate between high and low voltage until it hits 600 degrees. I tested the 02 sensors and my OBDII meter says they pass. Come to think about it, I haven't tested them when they are hot. I will do that once I get the new converter installed. Thanks BB, I really do appreciate your help and expert advice.

If all else fails, I can install a dummy 02 sensor but I don't want to unless I have too. I am looking to try to understand everything my tester does, most of it is foreign to me. I need to learn how to read the graft and things. I need to know when the voltage of things is out of range. I don't see how you keep up with all this stuff. You need a degree now days to work on a car and that is no joke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I found the problem of the battery light and brake light coming on then going out. The nut that connects the actual battery cable to the clamp on the positive side of the battery, that is under the plastic cover was loose. I tightened that and the light went out completely.

That sure makes me a happy camper. I did a complete test of the battery and alternator and neither one of them came up bad. My next move was to check all the grounds but found the loose nut on the positive battery cable.

Hopefully I am getting most of the bugs worked out of this car. I appreciate y'alls help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So much for working the bugs out of this car. I can't believe it, dad blame it, I went out to get the mileage so I could send the catalytic converter back and I bumped the alarm switch and broke it. Does anyone know how to shut the alarm off? I cut the wires to the switch but that didn't work.
 

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Lock and unlock car either by remote or drivers door lock or starting engine sometimes works
.:vs_cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Lock and unlock car either by remote or drivers door lock or starting engine sometimes works
.:vs_cool:
Thanks BB, I will give that a try, I have to hook the battery back up. I cut the wires to the alarm switch thinking maybe that would work but it didn't.
 

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Thanks BB, I will give that a try, I have to hook the battery back up. I cut the wires to the alarm switch thinking maybe that would work but it didn't.
If it's a factory alarm there could be a battery back up located in the dash.

Had a Dodge Daytona Shelby had the dealer take out the alarm system out.

Had to take it back do to the battery backup that now had nothing to align with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
I'm sorry, I forgot to post that BB was right on how to make the alarm shut off. I locked the door, unlocked the door then clicked the key fob. Worked like a charm. I did replace that little chintzy switch with a better one. Thanks BB.
 
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