[BigJim]

Always something, the battery and brake light came on for a second or two then went out. This happened maybe 4 times in a 30 mile trip. I thought I had checked the ground wires for the alternator but I will check it again. I did have trouble tightening the positive batter clamp. I had to bend it a little for it to stay on, there is actually no way to tighten it any other way. Any suggestions why the lights came on and went off?

 

[ukrkoz]

1. loose belt
2. remove clamp, use terminal cleaning tool, lubricate with dielectric grease, reinstall clamp, take cordless and drive small screw right above the clamp edge, at angle down, into battery terminal. Make sure clamp is all the way down to the battery top.
3. alternator is going south

 

[BigJim]

Number 3 sure doesn't look good, that is one thing that was concerning me. I guess we will see soon enough.

I drove for another 127 miles since clearing the P2A00 code, it is back. Looks like I am fixin to make a smoke machine and see where the leak is, if there is one.

 

[ukrkoz]

Just do basic voltage check, not to get stranded somewhere. And check dat belt.

 

[huesmann]

Check brake fluid level?

 

[BigJim]

Just do basic voltage check, not to get stranded somewhere. And check dat belt.

Man you would have thought I would have thought about checking the output of the alternator but I didn't, CRS ya know (can't remember stuff) lol I know it isn't the belt unless it has come loose in the past week, that thing was a booger bear to get back on it was so tight.

The engine is so close to the side wall of the engine bay it is impossible to get a wrench in there to get on the tensioner. The only way to do it is put the bottom bolt in the alternator, then pry the alternator into place with the belt on it, which will put the tension on the belt.

You would not believe how close the engine is to the fans right now, there is maybe 3/8 inch if that. If that lower mount turns loose, the bottom #1 02 sensor is shot, it will break the wires from hitting the fans. The engine can not move back as it is way too close to the firewall now. I have never see such a mess in my life. I believe I had rather rebuild a D-8 cat than fool with this car. They didn't make many of the SE R Spec V cars and I can sure see why.

 

[BigJim]

Check brake fluid level?

I did think of that, lol, it is topped out.

I appreciate both of your information, thanks a ton.

 

[ukrkoz]

Voltage check. Of course, check all connectors. Might be a ***** but worth it.

 

[BigJim]

Voltage check. Of course, check all connectors. Might be a ***** but worth it.

I did that already, didn't find any loose. At least not around the alternator.

 

[ukrkoz]

So alternator output is good then? Around 14V?

In that case, you got bad ground somewhere.....rusted....

 

[surferdude2]

A faulty ignition switch or wire connected to it can cause that problem. Wiggle the key/switch around a little while the motor is running to check.

 

[BigJim]

So alternator output is good then? Around 14V?

In that case, you got bad ground somewhere.....rusted....

UK, I haven't gone out there to check the output yet, haven't felt good the last few days. The ground may be a concern. When I put the engine back in, I couldn't figure out where the ground for the battery went so I bolted it down to a piece of metal that looked to be some type of bracket, I looked on the frame and on the transmission and couldn't find a place to bolt it too. I may need to rethink that deal.

surferdude2 I will check that out also.

I do appreciate y'alls help

 

[huesmann]

Check the e-brake switch—the one on the handle that tells the car the handle is up?

 

[BigJim]

Check the e-brake switch—the one on the handle that tells the car the handle is up?

Thanks, I will check that, I still haven't gone out there, still feel under the weather.

 

[JBoot]

Sounds like a few good possible explanations offered in the previous posts. I always checked the grounds first, and any other wires and items that I may have loosened when working on the car, e.g. sensors, switches.

Two different friends had “the battery and brake light come on at the same” problem. A simple test before taking it to the shop for repair was to test under a load, i.e., with the headlights, wipers, heater/AC blower motor all on. As suggested, the alternator should be producing 14 volts or close to it. Anything less and the alternator is probably failing.

Both times it was a bad alternator or it was “going bad.” Not feeling well…Why not stop by Autozone (or other) and have them do a test?

 

[ukrkoz]

i safely bet, that ground is the culprit.

get better, Big guy.

 

[BigJim]

Sounds like a few good possible explanations offered in the previous posts. I always checked the grounds first, and any other wires and items that I may have loosened when working on the car, e.g. sensors, switches.

Two different friends had “the battery and brake light come on at the same” problem. A simple test before taking it to the shop for repair was to test under a load, i.e., with the headlights, wipers, heater/AC blower motor all on. As suggested, the alternator should be producing 14 volts or close to it. Anything less and the alternator is probably failing.

Both times it was a bad alternator or it was “going bad.” Not feeling well…Why not stop by Autozone (or other) and have them do a test?

Thanks JB, I appreciate your help. I plan to go out in the shop in a little while even if it is getting late in the day. I will do a check with my multi meter to see what readings I get. I will also check the connections to see if there are any loose.

I just got back from Home Depot, I bought some PVC fittings so I can make a smoke machine. I am going to smoke the exhaust and the intake to see if there are any leaks there causing the P2A00 code. I will let y'all know what I find.

Here is a video of how I am making the smoke machine:

 

[BigJim]

I got out in the shop today and I did do some checking. I still haven't found any loose wires or connections yet. I did check the battery before the engine was fired up. below are the photos of the meter readings.

#1 is the battery with engine not running
#2 is Battery, Eng running at 2000 rpm
#3 Alt output, no load
#4 Alt output reading varied, no load
#5 Alt output, full load at idle

 

[BigJim]

Looks like the alternator is in good shape. I just had a thought, there is supposed to be a ground wire going from the engine to the firewall, I am not sure I ever found that wire. I may just ground the engine to the firewall with a new wire.

I still haven't turned the knock sensor around backwards to see if that is the problem. There are so many things to check it is unreal.

I let the engine run for quite a while today, the fans will not come on unless I turn the AC on, can't figure that out.

 

[huesmann]

If you're looking for exhaust leaks, it's easier to just hook up your shop vac on reverse so it's blowing instead of sucking, to your exhaust pipe (seal it well with duct tape), and spray soap solution on the entire exhaust. If you see bubbles, that's where your leak is. Like finding a leak on a tire.