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JOATMON
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Discussion Starter #1
My wife's new bathtub arrived....need to get a drain valve for it...

Of course I could slap on one of those $25 plastic ones from HD...

Or...the Kohler model for $160....



Any real difference in performance or life?
 

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I use canplas tub kits (the $25 plastic ones). Make sure its an indirect and direct kit. The only time I would go with a more expensive one is if its exposed and the customer will see the drain or wants a nicer drain/overflow trim. Just make sure to use lots of glue on all your joints, to the point where it essentially drips, quarter turn then wipe excess with a rag. Also if its a fiberglass tub, make sure not to get any glue onto it or immediately wipe it off after, as it can stain/eat into the tub/showerbase
 

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If you want a pop up drain---depot does carry Watts in brass for about $65---
Or Watts in plastic for about $35---

For a toe tap/twist and turn---consider a PVC solvent weld unit---about $25---
 

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I like the solvent weld kits.
I believe you're under UPC which doesn't allow concealed compression fittings- they must be accessible- something to consider
 
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Just on principle, I don't like things with more moving parts than necessary. I like the plain ones.

Which looks like it might trap more hair and soap scum, or break or come apart in a hard to reach place,

this one?
 

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Those are the old cylinder ones. They can be a pain to get cylinder adjusted correctly. Over time it can be a bear to get cylinder back out.

WAIT those don't have the cylinder in them. Yes go with this kind.
 

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Doing it myself
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I actually do like the kohler ones very much, except for as stated by Eplumber, not legal to be installed in a concealed location : IE 2nd floor.

The mechanism is quite simple to install and remove, unlike some of the older styles that price pfister had out.

If you want something without an internal mechanism, look for a PP (push-pull) style setup with a solvent weld drain assembly.
 

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JOATMON
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Discussion Starter #9
This is the kind of imput I'm looking for.

For the record....the drain (2nd floor) will be somewhat accessable....I'm designing the surround on the tub so I can access the drain.

In our existing downstairs (existing bathroom) I have one of those cable activated drains. I like it....if things get clogged up...it's easy to lift up the stopper and clean things out....I'm leaning that direction....seeing how you guys don't think the $$$$ ones are really any better.
 

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IMO you're just paying for the brass and brand name....
The compression style are user friendly when it comes to making adjustments to fit your tub. Also make sure you get one that will fit a deep tub if thats what you have.
 
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Doing it myself
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For the record....the drain (2nd floor) will be somewhat accessable....I'm designing the surround on the tub so I can access the drain.
I wouldn't go slip joint on 2nd floor if you can avoid it. I repaired one ONCE through a hole behind the tub, and it worked out ok, but it was a real [email protected]^[email protected] to get to the nut at the p-trap (below the subfloor) so that I could get it out of the way and cut off the adapter. Not cool.
 
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