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Bathtub drain questions???

8008 Views 62 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  tomknox
I'm a newbie in the process of replacing a tub in my 1953 house and i have a few questions, i searched for awile but couldn't come up with the answers. Maybe these are obvious to most but i'm stumped here...

1) I bought a brass drain kit, how do i connect it to the drain pipe under the house? (old lead pipe maybe??)

2) The drain pipe under the house does a U and there is a "canister" shaped object connected to the pipe that looks like its in bad condition. What is it and does it need to be replaced or axed or what?

3) There is standing water in the drain pipe (under the house) maybe four inches from the top of the pipe. Is that ok or does that mean there's probably a clog?

Thanks so much, i would greatly appreciate any advice that i can get right now, im stuck and the wife want's some progress soon.:whistling2:
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You are new to this,so I'll give you a pointer or two---That 'canister ' is a barrel trap---

They are trouble--plan on getting rid of that and using a 'P' trap---

Post a picture of what you have--there are several licensed plumbers here and a lot of home owners that have done exactly what you are facing.---Mike---
ok so the barrel trap needs to go then first step. then do a p-trap there of pvc instead? what about connecting the drain to pvc, what do i use there? any tips on removing the barrel? i will upload pics tomorrow, my battery just conveniently died when i tried to take the pics! if it aint one thing its another!!
Those barrel traps are connected in various ways---an idea if how it hooks into the drains is needed.
Here is a before and after of a drum trap I replaced. Hope it helps
I Removed all lead piping. Installed new ABS waste and overflow and P trap


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ok so this is it here, note that i have duct work all in the way just to make the job a lil more difficult!! does this barrel tie into the main drain i guess??

thanks guys!
Can i hack that sucker off a few inches before the barrel and redo in pvc from there, to the over flow drain connection?
Yes---Open the floor a bit more cut the 1 1/2" steel pipe back as far as you can---clear that duct if possible.----That way if you wish to replace more drains in the future the connection is able to be reached from below.

Boot on with a rubber Fernco type fitting and then switch to PVC.

Nice pictures---Mike---
Thanks mike!! Ok, the pipe leading to the left i assume meets to the main sewer pipe, try and take out as much as possible then Fernco fitting to pvc the rest of the way to the tub? As for the p-trap, should i buy a kit or what because im not sure what the angles should be so the trap actually functions right? Thanks again!!
I usually get a PVC trap with a union nut---this allows some fine tuning of the position without glue.

I'll see if I can Google a picture---Mike---
Hey mike after closer inspection the drain seems to run back to the toilet, would that be correct if they tied it in with the toilet drain?
Yes that's right.I'd be leery of putting a union trap connection like that if it's your second floor in between joist?
Yes that's right.I'd be leery of putting a union trap connection like that if it's your second floor in between joist?

I've never had a leak from one of those----I've used them many times.
Ya nor I.But they are not allowed to be inaccessible where I live.The theory is they could slip or work loose when snaking the drain??
That's news to me.:eek:
thanks again mike youve really helped me out here!! this is the first floor here jason. mike wouldn't it be ok if i pulled up my plywood, then a few diagonal 2x8's, then work it from there? the pipe to the toilet runs perfect with the 2x8's, dont know if they did it like that or maybe i got lucky!! let me know you're thoughts and i will take pics as i go! thanks
I agree---open up the subfloor as needed to get easy access.

This is the time to replace what needs replacing!
I love pictures. Especially cats (and plumbing)---Mike---
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