Bathroom in the garage. Is this dumb?

13341 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by grabbag, Jun 2, 2011

grabbag

Discussion Starter · Apr 26, 2011

Okay, first post. Hello everyone. I am considering tackling a project of building a bathroom in the garage. It used to be a model home and the business office was in the garage and there used to be an existing bathroom where I am thinking of putting the new one. The only thing that is left is the sink. The toilet drain is capped and the walls were removed.

The reason for wanting to add this bathroom is to have a bathroom by the pool so everyone does not have to go into the house.

The plan is to cut a hole in the brick exterior to place a door there. I also want to put a door from the bathroom to enter the garage. I am thinking about a pocket door for the interior. However, I am not sure if I should be looking at a more substantial door along the lines of an exterior door.

Next problem is that I want to have an even floor. The 1-2 inch lip falls within the room layout. I am thinking about raising the lower portion of the floor and then leveling with self-leveling concrete.

Finally, I would like to vent the bathroom, but there is a room above the garage. I was thinking about venting through a wall into the garage. I know I could cut a hole through the brick, but I would rather not.

Does anybody see any red flags or glaring problems with what I am trying to do? I look forward to the comments.
Thanks.
Doug

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1 - 17 of 17 Posts

oh'mike

· #2 · Apr 26, 2011

I think the bath will make your house and pool a better place.

Post a photo if you can---Also--vent through the brick--good vent covers are available.

Reduce the size of the file you down loaded---it's making the post hard to read.--Mike---

Gary in WA

· #3 · Apr 27, 2011

Welcome to the forum!

Check with your local Building Department. The rules are for your safety, bollards in front of the walls, fire-rated doors/drywall, egress path required (possibly not through garage), heat source, ventilation, etc....

Gary

vsheetz

· #4 · Apr 27, 2011

A bathroom that does not require going through the house is a very convenient thing to have. Pool goers don't have to traverse through the house. When dirty from yard work or putzing with the car you don't track dirt across the house. You have the bones and plumbing to do it - go for it!

Might also consider to install a 'dirty' sink. A laundry room sink to wash yourself and things when so dirty you don't want them in the house. Does not have to be inside the bathroom - can be on a wall opposite plumbing in the bathroom.

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 27, 2011

Post a photo if you can---Also--vent through the brick--good vent covers are available.

Thanks for the responses. I did look up the city building code and found that they do want a mechanical vent that vents outside.

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 27, 2011

GBR in WA said:
Welcome to the forum!

Check with your local Building Department. The rules are for your safety, bollards in front of the walls, fire-rated doors/drywall, egress path required (possibly not through garage), heat source, ventilation, etc....

Gary

In regards to the heat or ac source. Is that typically a code requirement even if it is in the garage? I guess you could argue that it is not in the garage anymore. I would like to avoid running air to the room. I am in TX and I could see it getting warm in the Summer. The good thing is that the outside door and wall never face the sun.
Thanks.
Doug

Gary in WA

· #7 · Apr 28, 2011

Check locally; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec003.htm

Gary

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 25, 2011

6

Ok, I jumped in and started the project. So far, so good. The walls are up and the wiring is done.
I am about 90% on finishing mudding of sheetrock.
The toilet drain was capped with concrete.
Luckily they put in a plug before the poured the concrete.
So I was able to remove it fairly easy. The drain was originally a 4 inch.
I had to convert it to a 3 inch.

Question
I am about to start the process of leveling the floor.
In one of the pics, you can see the exterior wall.
I want to raise the floor to the level just even with the bottom of the sill plate.
I have kicked around several ideas for raising the floor(7 ft X 3.5 ft about 2 inches)...
1. pour all self leveling concrete - 10 bags at $30 a bag (EXPENSIVE)
2. pour concrete and float it level - 10 bags at $3-4 a bag (CHEAPEST)
3. combination of 1 and 2 (I LIKE BECAUSE I DO NOT HAVE TO FLOAT THE FLOOR SMOOTH AND LEVEL)

I am going to use ceramic tile. I am concerned about cracking.
I thought about a membrane but I would have to buy way more than what I need. I also considered Red Gard.
If I use a crack resistant concrete and a fortified thinset, would that suffice for strength?
Thanks.
Doug

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bernieb

· #9 · May 26, 2011

What would be wrong with shimming the off-set floor with green treated lumber hammer drilled into the floor,fill the void with sand mix sacrete, and cover the entire floor with half inch cement wonder board? And i'm sure the original plumbing has a vent already......forget about the pocket door, just open doors to the inside.

sixeightten

· #10 · May 26, 2011

You could do the floor that way. What will you do at the threshold though? And be sure to raise that door frame up a bit as this will cause the bottom of the door to rub if not.

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #11 · May 26, 2011

bernieb said:
What would be wrong with shimming the off-set floor with green treated lumber hammer drilled into the floor,fill the void with sand mix sacrete, and cover the entire floor with half inch cement wonder board? And i'm sure the original plumbing has a vent already......forget about the pocket door, just open doors to the inside.

Thanks for the reply.
The pocket door is done. The toilet drain does have a vent. I can feel the breeze. I build up the floor that way, then i have raised the highest point another inch. If I could lay Hardiebacker right on top of concrete I would. I cound not find in their installation instructions that i could do that.

oh'mike

· #12 · May 26, 2011

Self leveling compound can be mixed with sand for thicker pours---This adds strength and stretches the mix--saving money.

I like Jiffset and Linewebbers latex---Others are just as good---I just like that one.

Read the directions--some (most) require a primer---also they don't 'self level' very well. work fast--add thin layers and help it level.

The stuff sets FAST so don't waste time --just get it on and smoothed out.---Mike----

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 26, 2011

oh'mike said:
Self leveling compound can be mixed with sand for thicker pours---This adds strength and stretches the mix--saving money.

I like Jiffset and Linewebbers latex---Others are just as good---I just like that one.

Read the directions--some (most) require a primer---also they don't 'self level' very well. work fast--add thin layers and help it level.

The stuff sets FAST so don't waste time --just get it on and smoothed out.---Mike----

Is it a bad idea to build it up with conrete, then pour slc on top? I planned to use a primer.
Thanks.
Doug

oh'mike

· #14 · May 26, 2011

I'd be a bit concerned about it bonding---If you prime I think you will be O.K,---We have freezing issues up here that
you don't----Let's see what someone else says.

The mortar shower bases are only a couple of inches thick and they work--I think you'll be fine.---Mike--

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 1, 2011

I finished the floor prep. Here is what I did.

primed floor
2 inch mud bed (4:1 sand/portland cement)
primed
self leveling concrete
primed
Noble Crack Isolation Sheet

I am now ready for tile.

Thanks for your input.
Doug

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rjniles

· #16 · Jun 1, 2011

grabbag said:
In regards to the heat or ac source. Is that typically a code requirement even if it is in the garage? I guess you could argue that it is not in the garage anymore. I would like to avoid running air to the room. I am in TX and I could see it getting warm in the Summer. The good thing is that the outside door and wall never face the sun.
Thanks.
Doug

Install a through the wall AC/heater combo. Turn on only when you need it. Smaller ones are only 120 volts.

grabbag

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jun 2, 2011

rjniles said:
Install a through the wall AC/heater combo. Turn on only when you need it. Smaller ones are only 120 volts.

I was closing up holes that i made in the drywall on Saturday and it was 90+ outside. I noticed cool air blowing from the holes. My thoughts were there is an open duct blowing into the void between the ceiling and the upstairs floor.

I cut a hole in the ceiling so that I could take a look around. It was very refreshing to stick my head up there but I could not find any ducting. I looked through the attic and found nothing conclusive. After poking around, I figured out that HVAC had been run in the garage. The house has 2 units. It used to have threee, based on the breaker box. 'AC Unit 3' was scratched out and now shows 'open'.

So for now, I am going to put a vent on the hole in the ceiling and bring the cool air into the bathroom.

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