DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New member, first question :thumbup:

I'm redoing a toilet mistake in my basement. The first time my toilet flange was too high and the toilet rocked. No problem, right? Shim it and caulk it. Wrong. Learn and live I guess. The wax ring compressed and started leaking. :furious:

Now I want to do it right, but don't want to cut the 4" stubbed out pipe too short because it's encased in concrete. So I've got one shot at this.

1) Do I tile right up to the 4" pipe, grout, insert flange and fasten through finished floor

2) Do I cut pipe off flush with basement subfloor, install flange, and tile up to it then

Note: sub floor is concrete, flange is a slip inside type (no gluing), and the flange thickness is exactly 7/16".

See attached picture if it helps
Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
25,769 Posts
You will get several different answers---I like the flange attached to the subfloor (concrete) and tile around it----

By the way--that slip in rubber gasketed flange does not meet code in many areas---solvent weld (glued) is required here--
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'll add my location right now, I agree attached to the sub floor is what i was thinking but wanted a second or third opinion. So what I am looking at then is cutting the pipe down flush with the concrete. Gluing in the flange as well as securing it to the sub floor with concrete screws. Then tile up to it. Since I'm trashing the slip in flange here's a few more questions.

1) The flanges at my local store have different thickness, should I shoot for one that winds up flush with my finished floor or slightly higher?

2) It seems the plastic flanges are thicker than the stainless steel ones. If get a stainless one it's going to be well below the finished floor height of 3/8"

Thanks for any replies
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
25,769 Posts
Avoid the plastic flanges---use the stainless steel---the PVC flanges frequently crack or otherwise fail---

Simply use a wax extender ring and bolt set----you will be fine----
 

·
Roofmaster
Joined
·
3,731 Posts
The toilet flange is suppose to sit on top of the finished floor. All toilets have a recessed well around their outlet spigot to accept the flange. I agree with Mike on the SS over all plastic. No contest. Us all non corrosive parts. I would anchor down the flange in this case with all stainless wedge anchors. Use the SSflange with PVC Bell that Glues inside your 4 inch pipe.

The weight of the toilet should NEVER rest on the flange.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies. I've scraped my PVC flange for the one in the pictures below. First picture shows that the flange height is nearly exact with finished floor, meaning if I go with Oh'****'s suggestion the 4" stub will be cut flush with concrete sub floor.

Second picture shows that the distance between outlet of toilet and toilet itself is 3/4".

So if installed on top of concrete sub floor I'd need a wax ring slightly taller than 3/4" to make a proper seal.
But if installed on top of finished floor, the 3/4" (on picture #2) minus the 3/8" in flange height (of picture #1). I'd need a wax ring slightly taller than 3/8" is this correct or am I over thinking it?

And if install over finished floor, that kinda rules out any flooring changes down the road without headaches doesn't it.

Thanks again I'm just trying to get different opinions and hopefully this will help someone else out in the process.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,695 Posts
You are over thinking this
I vote for on top- especially when using SS flange. They seem to have the lowest profile and won't interfere with the toilet.
cut the pipe off below top of tile
lay tile
glue and anchor flange set toilet using a standard ring
sit down and enjoy
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top