[jackpine]

Ok couple quick questions I need some opinions on these.

1. Is 39.3 degrees considered steep?

2. Stringers need to sit on concrete, should set on treated blocks or entire stringer treated?

3. 2x10 or 2x12? Two outside stringers can be attached to walls.

4. If 2x12, can I get by with two stringers, width is 37 inches.


I guess that is four questions but oh well, toss me some opinions.

 

[DannyT]

is this inside or outside? 39.3 degrees from horizontal or 39.3 from verticle/ 45 degrees is plenty steep. risers need to be around 7-8 inches with no more than 1/4 variance from one step to another and the treads are 10 or 11. you can't just go from point A to point B and call it good. i'm sure others will add and correct me.

 

[joecaption]

Got a picture?
You can cut into the under sides of the stringers for a pressure treated 2 X 6 or 2, 2 X 4's. That will keep the stringers in alignment and allow then to be attached to the floor.
Need 2 X 12's and really should have three of them.
If the stringer come up againt a wall you need to add a 2 X 4 to the bottom, side of the strinker to hold it out away from the wall enough to fit sheetock and the skirt board.
http://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/stairseng.aspx

 

[jackpine]

Ok, so I will just cut the bottom stringer and insert a treated base, use three 2x12 stringers instead of the 2 2x10 stringers I am replacing. I like the idea on holding the stringer away from the walls for sheetrock, but an inch and a half is way too much, I will probably tack on a small strip of a 1 inch board along the stringer.

Danny I am way beyond that stuff already.

 

[GBrackins]

an inch and a half is way too much? what is the combined width of 1/2" drywall and a 1x skirt board?

 

[jackpine]

That is just one way to do it.

 

[woodworkbykirk]

an inch and a half is way too much? what is the combined width of 1/2" drywall and a 1x skirt board?

1 1/4".. 1x stock is actually 3/4 .. 5 /4 is actually 1".. . so in fact youll have a 1/4 gap remaining between the stringer and the skirt board, this small space will allow some shimming of the skirtboard to keep it running fairly straight.. once thats done the riser board and treads get installed. its standard practice in construction

 

[joecaption]

Once the skirts in place you can add base cap moulding to cover up any gaps and make it look better.
http://www.tiloindustries.com/profiles/base_cap_profiles.html

What differance would it make in your mind if the stringer was held off by 1-1/2?

 

[jackpine]

Point taken. I will set it off that far. I probably should rock the walls then before I install the stringers. Is there any advantage to using an LVL product over 2x12? And what about riser and tread material? I was looking at pine or spruce/fir to match our other trim through out the house.

 

[joecaption]

If you plan on attaching the outside stringer to the wall do not sheetrock before installing it. It will flex.

 

[jackpine]

I shouldn't attach it through the sheet rock to the wall?

 

[jackpine]

I suppose the 2x4 should be attached to the walls first, then the stringers attached to the 2x4. Otherwise I will need some real long screws when all I will really need is a nail gun.

 

[joecaption]

I use 1/2 lag bolts, one every other stud and it's not going any place.
I attach the 2 X 4 to the stringer, set it in place and mark the studs, take it down and predrill clearace holes then put it back in place.

 

[jackpine]

Ok quick run to the lumber yard after work and picked out 3 nice 2x12 12 feet long. Treads were picked over junk so I am going to temp in some dimensional stuff I have around. No risers either yet. Picked up a dozen 5 inch x 1/2 lag bolts, Spax brand name. No pre-drilling needed they say. Made in Germany? Never heard of them. Now the layout. Total run is 9 feet. Total rise is 95 1/4 inches. I'll do the math and start the layout..

 

[woodworkbykirk]

lvls do work for stringers they have far less bounce than regular lumber but cost waayyyyy more..

as for installing the drywall first, you lose 1/2" off the lenght of the fastener grabbing anything solid plus the fastener can flex in that 1/2".

for riser stock you can very easily use good one side plywood, my stair installers do it all the time to keep costs down and match the tread material

 

[jackpine]

I have it laid out but something is slightly wrong. Haven't cut yet. I think I need to subtract the width of my riser from the very last step up onto the main floor. If I do this everything jives.

 

[GBrackins]

one thing I've found that helps to strengthen stringers is to attach a 2x4 along the bottom of the stringer, two on the center stringer. this will typically double (on ends) and triple (on center) the material that is left after cutting the stringer.

 

[funfool]

Is there any advantage to using an LVL product over 2x12?

They are great, will be guaranteed to be straight, in this case, was such a long run we used them for that purpose. They do cost more, but in many cases I feel is worth it,
I called these the step and slide stairs. :yes:

Was simply the home owner could not make up mind if they wanted a landing and turn the stairs after the post, or just straight through.

But yeah, is a pleasure working with the LVL and will use them every chance I get.

 

[funfool]

oops, was going to attach a pic to that and got tied up and forgot

 

[jackpine]

Finally getting back to the project. Should be done in an hour or so.