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Hello,

I just purchased a home and wanted to finish my basement. The issue is that the cement foundation goes up half way to the basement ceiling, making the wall uneven.

My goal is to make the wall even with studs and insulate with a vapor barrier, then drywalling on top.


Does anyone have any recommendations on how to tackle this project? Photos are attached.

Thank you

Marcus
 

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Basically, you will, just copy the same wall behind it, I dont know if it will be a 2x4 or 2x6 wall, and build it out from there. I'm sure a real pro will be along to give you more detail, but that's the down and dirty.
 

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Having a vapour barrier is fine if done right but yours has holes and poor fitting insulation, so all that should be removed and inspected for mold.

Wood should never touch concrete ans the lower wall is not sealed properly, so???

Extending the wall could be just to put the top plate up and drywall but the space at the top between the exterior wall and the interior wall needs to be fire stopped.
A few blocks tiying the two walls together will solve any hinge problem,
How wide are the stairs beside the concrete.
 

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Having a vapour barrier is fine if done right but yours has holes and poor fitting insulation, so all that should be removed and inspected for mold.

Wood should never touch concrete ans the lower wall is not sealed properly, so???

Extending the wall could be just to put the top plate up and drywall but the space at the top between the exterior wall and the interior wall needs to be fire stopped.
A few blocks tiying the two walls together will solve any hinge problem,
How wide are the stairs beside the concrete.


https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog...-You-Put-a-Plastic-Vapor-Barrier-in-Your-Wall


"" Enhancing drying vs. preventing wetness
Understanding moisture is one of the most important aspects of making buildings do their jobs properly and not fail prematurely. We know now that mid-twentieth century building science incorrectly ascribed magical properties to vapor barriers. Water vapor from indoor air wasn't the source of most moisture problems. Bulk water from deficiencies in drainage planes, flashing, and other moisture management details caused most of the problems.

Building science has progressed since then. We know that vapor barriers can cause problems, but we still have homes like the one in Charleston with poly in the walls. And we have $4 million dollar homes with poly on the walls, too. I saw the one below when Martin Holladay came to Atlanta last year. That's in the basement, but the kneewalls in the attic also were covered with poly.

Vapor barrier on a basement wall in a 4 million dollar home (with a ductopus!)

Our understanding now is that it's generally more important for wall assemblies to be able to dry than it is to block water vapor with materials like polyethylene. Here's what Bill Rose wrote in his book, Water in Buildings:

"Given the fact that a very small percentage of building problems (1 to 5% at most in the authors experience) are associated with wetting by water vapor diffusion, the argument for enhanced drying potential becomes much stonger."""


It's okay for pressure treated wood to come in contact with concrete.
You can also put a barrier between regular wood and concrete.
As for the rest of the story..........

For example: You could install an piece of PT plywood over the concrete ledge then install a decorative board over that for a shelf.
 

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https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog...-You-Put-a-Plastic-Vapor-Barrier-in-Your-Wall


"" Enhancing drying vs. preventing wetness
Understanding moisture is one of the most important aspects of making buildings do their jobs properly and not fail prematurely. We know now that mid-twentieth century building science incorrectly ascribed magical properties to vapor barriers. Water vapor from indoor air wasn't the source of most moisture problems. Bulk water from deficiencies in drainage planes, flashing, and other moisture management details caused most of the problems.

Building science has progressed since then. We know that vapor barriers can cause problems, but we still have homes like the one in Charleston with poly in the walls. And we have $4 million dollar homes with poly on the walls, too. I saw the one below when Martin Holladay came to Atlanta last year. That's in the basement, but the kneewalls in the attic also were covered with poly.

Vapor barrier on a basement wall in a 4 million dollar home (with a ductopus!)

Our understanding now is that it's generally more important for wall assemblies to be able to dry than it is to block water vapor with materials like polyethylene. Here's what Bill Rose wrote in his book, Water in Buildings:

"Given the fact that a very small percentage of building problems (1 to 5% at most in the authors experience) are associated with wetting by water vapor diffusion, the argument for enhanced drying potential becomes much stonger."""


It's okay for pressure treated wood to come in contact with concrete.
You can also put a barrier between regular wood and concrete.
As for the rest of the story..........

For example: You could install an piece of PT plywood over the concrete ledge then install a decorative board over that for a shelf.

Your link is about warm climate.



It is code acceptable to put treated wood against concrete.

The question is why is it needed? It is needed because moisture can wick from below the slab and regular wood can rot if it gets wet.

As the bottom plate is on the warm side of the insulation or is a bridge thru the insulation we can expect moisture will wick.

Then the question is, where does it go from there?

The sill gasket prevents wicking. Why would you not do both.



Before anyone finishes any thing in the basement some things should be understood.

Wicking thru the floor is a problem, wicking or leaking thru the wall is a problem.

Stopping warm moist air from getting behind the wall and comming into contact with the colder foundation will leave condensation and dirt on surfaces whether those surfaces support mold or not, mold will grow on the dirt, on poly, concrete, wood or insulation.

If you believe that moisture will dissipate thru drywall may i suggest you build a 2x4 frame say 2ft x 2 ft, drywall one side, dump a cup of water in there and drywall the other side. Wait 60 days and open it and tell us what you find. Will it be dry inside.

BTW, what % of moisture does rot need to take hold.
 

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Your link is about warm climate.



It is code acceptable to put treated wood against concrete.

The question is why is it needed? It is needed because moisture can wick from below the slab and regular wood can rot if it gets wet.

As the bottom plate is on the warm side of the insulation or is a bridge thru the insulation we can expect moisture will wick.

Then the question is, where does it go from there?

The sill gasket prevents wicking. Why would you not do both.



Before anyone finishes any thing in the basement some things should be understood.

Wicking thru the floor is a problem, wicking or leaking thru the wall is a problem.

Stopping warm moist air from getting behind the wall and comming into contact with the colder foundation will leave condensation and dirt on surfaces whether those surfaces support mold or not, mold will grow on the dirt, on poly, concrete, wood or insulation.

If you believe that moisture will dissipate thru drywall may i suggest you build a 2x4 frame say 2ft x 2 ft, drywall one side, dump a cup of water in there and drywall the other side. Wait 60 days and open it and tell us what you find. Will it be dry inside.

BTW, what % of moisture does rot need to take hold.

You didn't even read it.
Whats number 2 say.?
 

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You didn't even read it.
Whats number 2 say.?



It does not tell me why we build houses meant for people to finish basements and it works and still people say it causes problems but like you they can not tell me what problem I should be looking for.


I can explain why it works, and you send me to a link, how about you understand it and tell me what exactly is the failure and what does it cause.
 

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It does not tell me why we build houses meant for people to finish basements and it works and still people say it causes problems but like you they can not tell me what problem I should be looking for.


I can explain why it works, and you send me to a link, how about you understand it and tell me what exactly is the failure and what does it cause.
I send you to a link for several reasons.
 

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I send you to a link for several reasons.
So in your own words, can you tell me what problem is caused with VB in a basement.



Everyone that has disagreed with me has sent me links but will not talk about it themselves.

Every reason that you find in those links are not the problem, they are evidence of a problem

They are evidence such thinks like.

A leak thru the foundation wall
Excess moisture wicking up into wood in contact with the floor any colour.

Holes in walls with or without VB that allows warm air to get passed the insulation to a cold surface.

Poorly placed insulation that allows cold to migrate to the back side of the drywall .


Again I ask, what problem do you see caused by VB
 

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So in your own words, can you tell me what problem is caused with VB in a basement.



Everyone that has disagreed with me has sent me links but will not talk about it themselves.

Every reason that you find in those links are not the problem, they are evidence of a problem

They are evidence such thinks like.

A leak thru the foundation wall
Excess moisture wicking up into wood in contact with the floor any colour.

Holes in walls with or without VB that allows warm air to get passed the insulation to a cold surface.

Poorly placed insulation that allows cold to migrate to the back side of the drywall .


Again I ask, what problem do you see caused by VB
Will the plastic only sweat on one side.?
 
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