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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are in the process of remodeling our basement and I've ran into a couple things that I think could be issues...

1. Drain where we want to put the shower is rusted and VERY slow to drain - I think it runs about 11' to the green lift station
2. Concerned the toilet is too close to concrete wall How far from the concrete wall should the toilet drain be?

Thoughts on both issues?








bad pic but the shower would be in the right hand corner and lift station is under the white structure
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Demo the concrete floor and install proper drains and vents. The toilet rough should be 12" from the finished wall (you can get away with 10" with the right toilet).
 

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really see no reason to breakout concrete ..standard commode rough in is 12" from finish wall....they do have 10" rough in though...as far as shower drain go's could remove cover and snake out line ..that would solve the slow drain issue...based on what you put on the shower floor you could replace drain and cover to match floor finish.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok so I did some more work this weekend. I was able to get the cover off and can pull up rust flakes. I have a plumber called an waiting for him to snake it out. I'm trying to figure out how I will run all the plumbing in this area. I'll need hot and cold water to 4 different locations in these two rooms and drains at all of those. From what I can tell I'll need to go back to the cast iron into the floor under the sink for 3 of them.

-I would use a 2" drain line through the studs for all of these right?
- I plan to use Pex for all the water lines. Would you run them over hte top and down or around and through the walls/studs?



This is our shower drain


The toilet flange was metal and is completely disintegrated. How will I attach a flange for the toilet? I forgot to take a picture after I took the wax ring off.

 

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Ok so I did some more work this weekend. I was able to get the cover off and can pull up rust flakes. I have a plumber called an waiting for him to snake it out. I'm trying to figure out how I will run all the plumbing in this area. I'll need hot and cold water to 4 different locations in these two rooms and drains at all of those. From what I can tell I'll need to go back to the cast iron into the floor under the sink for 3 of them.

-I would use a 2" drain line through the studs for all of these right?
- I plan to use Pex for all the water lines. Would you run them over hte top and down or around and through the walls/studs?



This is our shower drain


The toilet flange was metal and is completely disintegrated. How will I attach a flange for the toilet? I forgot to take a picture after I took the wax ring off.

First the sewer ejector is not plumbed correct, it should be a Y not a TY for the discharge into the stack, you need to add vents to the fixtures, how are you going to connect a shower to that drain? there are some repair flanges you can use for re connecting the toilet..just do a search on Amazon for them..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First the sewer ejector is not plumbed correct, it should be a Y not a TY for the discharge into the stack, you need to add vents to the fixtures, how are you going to connect a shower to that drain? there are some repair flanges you can use for re connecting the toilet..just do a search on Amazon for them..

Good to know on the Y. I'll look at getting that changed out.

Is there a good source for "proper venting". Can i run them up and combine them all and then tie into the main vent? (Maybe that's not correct)

We haven't decided on what we were going to do for a shower yet. Probably a fiberglass base. Suggestions?

I'll search for those, thanks for your input!
 

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Good to know on the Y. I'll look at getting that changed out.

Is there a good source for "proper venting". Can i run them up and combine them all and then tie into the main vent? (Maybe that's not correct)

We haven't decided on what we were going to do for a shower yet. Probably a fiberglass base. Suggestions?

I'll search for those, thanks for your input!
you can use AAV on each fixture for a vent, since we cant see whats under the concrete, its hard so say how they ran the drain lines and if you vented the sink if you would then be wet venting the toilet, but any vents are better than none..as far as the shower base, you will have to chop the concrete by the drain to make sure there is a trap and to stub up with a new clean pipe for the gasket to go around when you install the new shower base..the 3 inch pipe coming out of the sewer ejector should be a vent and you can tap into that if you wanted to run hard pipe vents to the fixtures..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok so plumber came over today and opened up the clogged drain. He said he can tell there is plenty of build up and is suggesting to rip it up and replace with pvc.

Which leads me to my next question...

Should I tear up the concrete and put drain lines in for the 1 bathroom sink, toilet, laundry room sink, shower and washer dryer? The only option I currently have for the sinks and laundry is to run a pipe in the wall and come back to cast coming up out of the concrete where I plan to place a wall.

If so can I tie back into the ejector or how do I get it into there?
 

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Ok so plumber came over today and opened up the clogged drain. He said he can tell there is plenty of build up and is suggesting to rip it up and replace with pvc.

Which leads me to my next question...

Should I tear up the concrete and put drain lines in for the 1 bathroom sink, toilet, laundry room sink, shower and washer dryer? The only option I currently have for the sinks and laundry is to run a pipe in the wall and come back to cast coming up out of the concrete where I plan to place a wall.

If so can I tie back into the ejector or how do I get it into there?
NO, the only chopping would be to install a new shower line and vent, you can chop back to the larger toilet pipe and put a y on that line, the above ground fixtures you pipe in the walls, unless you want to chop the whole floor up..
 
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