In the pic below you'll see that in the corner of my basement I have my breaker box and gas meter. The alcove has the washer and dryer and I plan on building a wall a few feet off the wall (basically where the window starts) and coming straight across so that there is a separate laundry room and "utility corner." How would I insulate this corner area?? Would I just put the rigid foam boards along the foundation walls in the corner and then put the batts in the studs on the new wall that would be a few feet off of the foundation walls? I would put drywall around the laundry area (where the blue panels are) but can I leave the foam boards in the utility corner "exposed" within the laundry room/utility closet?
Basement insulation help
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Just use fiberglass batts? I was told to do foam boards on the foundation walls and batts between the studs to avoid moisture issues/mold.
Any other suggestions?
Should I just skip the foam insulation boards in this area and only use batts in the studs? Will skipping an area like this make a big difference and undermine the effectiveness of using the foam insulation boards around the rest of the basement?
Furthermore, since there will be an door leading into this laundry area, I don't want cold air seeping into the basement through/under this door.
Should I just skip the foam insulation boards in this area and only use batts in the studs? Will skipping an area like this make a big difference and undermine the effectiveness of using the foam insulation boards around the rest of the basement?
Furthermore, since there will be an door leading into this laundry area, I don't want cold air seeping into the basement through/under this door.
I still have no clue what to do. Not sure if I should put rigid foam on the wall and leave it exposed, and then insulate the new wall with batts and cover both ends with drywall. Or just leave it alone. I don't know how much of a difference insulating these walls will make.
I don't want to make a mistake of leaving this entire section without insulation and thereby making the entire basement cold.
The pic below shows what I'm dealing with. Just like you, I'm pulling my hair out. The fact that all the is in a corner makes it that much more difficult. I think I'm going to glue the XPS foam to the wall around and behind the gas meter. There is no way to go behind the electrical panel or the electronics for my Verizon Fios box. Next, I'll build a small closet with sliding doors to give electricians access to the panel. I can't glue another layer of XPS to the back of the sliding doors because that will interfere with their operation.
But before I do any of this, I have a moisture/downspout runoff issue I have to take care of before I seal up the corner. I have a feeling if you enclose your corner in its own small room/closet, the lack of insulation will not greatly impact the warmth of the rest of the basement.
With that being said, I am not sure about any of this and I'm still searching for answers myself. If I find anything, I'll post it here.
But before I do any of this, I have a moisture/downspout runoff issue I have to take care of before I seal up the corner. I have a feeling if you enclose your corner in its own small room/closet, the lack of insulation will not greatly impact the warmth of the rest of the basement.
With that being said, I am not sure about any of this and I'm still searching for answers myself. If I find anything, I'll post it here.
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Please keep me posted. Thanks.
Hi Harp,
I've been hoping someone would offer a nice solution, but you are still waiting. So, here are some thoughts.
You want to build a wall or two to enclose that utility area but you are concerned about how to insulate that area and or isolate it from the basement so it doesn't make the basement cold. Correct me if I don't have the correct objective.
The difference I see is what will happen with that space is you omit the insulation and isolate it from the heat in the basement. it will become almost as cold as the outside temps and that is not good. Basement wall are always a source of moisture, mostly vapor that can be easily managed inside the conditioned basement.
Here's one approach. Picture frame everything mounted to the wall area where you cannot get rigid insulation and drywall behind it. Use pressure treated wood against the concrete and match the thickness of the rigid insulation. Then cover all exposed concrete within those frames, cut as needed and seal all seams, caulk, can foam, or foil tape. With the framing in place you will then be able to install a covering layer of 1/2" drywall as a thermal barrier.
You would still want to address the rim joist, but with the bulk of the area insulated you could then add some heat to that space to eliminate all moisture issues and omit the need to insulate the new walls. A louvered door might also be a good option.
The areas that are not insulated will remain warm enough to not be a condensation problem and the cost of the heat loss would be minimal, think $10 per year at most.
Bud
I've been hoping someone would offer a nice solution, but you are still waiting. So, here are some thoughts.
You want to build a wall or two to enclose that utility area but you are concerned about how to insulate that area and or isolate it from the basement so it doesn't make the basement cold. Correct me if I don't have the correct objective.
The difference I see is what will happen with that space is you omit the insulation and isolate it from the heat in the basement. it will become almost as cold as the outside temps and that is not good. Basement wall are always a source of moisture, mostly vapor that can be easily managed inside the conditioned basement.
Here's one approach. Picture frame everything mounted to the wall area where you cannot get rigid insulation and drywall behind it. Use pressure treated wood against the concrete and match the thickness of the rigid insulation. Then cover all exposed concrete within those frames, cut as needed and seal all seams, caulk, can foam, or foil tape. With the framing in place you will then be able to install a covering layer of 1/2" drywall as a thermal barrier.
You would still want to address the rim joist, but with the bulk of the area insulated you could then add some heat to that space to eliminate all moisture issues and omit the need to insulate the new walls. A louvered door might also be a good option.
The areas that are not insulated will remain warm enough to not be a condensation problem and the cost of the heat loss would be minimal, think $10 per year at most.
Bud
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431 Posts
It is likely possible (and I did it) to remove the fasteners from the boxes (elec service panel included), remove the OSB backers, slide in insulation and reinstall the boxes. You only need a small amount of slack to bump it out 2".
XPS needs a thermal barrier (usually drywall), but in this application, a product like Thermax makes a lot of sense. Another option is to slide 3/4" plywood between the XPS and the boxes (screwed to the block), and mount your boxes to that.
I just spoke with my electrician and we're going to try unscrewing the panel to lift it out enough for 1" XPS and a layer of 1/2" sheet rock. It will be great if we can get 2", but the 1" will be better than nothing for the boxed in area. Then I'll just have to build a double-hinged door for the corner. A piano hinge should come in handy for that.
Thermax is supposedly approved for basement and attic spaces without covering, but it's a special order item in my area. You have to order by the pallet. The quote I got was well over $1,000. I'm still thinking of getting it, though.
Damn! You have to buy Thermax by the pallet! Unless you don't plan on sheet rocking, I don't see the value in that. Although, now that I think about it, 2" XPS would cost me about that much.
My electrician is concerned that nailing or screwing through 3/4" plywood, 1/2" sheet rock, and 1" XPS may not provide a stable enough surface to mount the electrical panel. I think I'm going to grab some Tapcons and try it out on another part of the basement before we go through the hassle of removing the panel.
My electrician is concerned that nailing or screwing through 3/4" plywood, 1/2" sheet rock, and 1" XPS may not provide a stable enough surface to mount the electrical panel. I think I'm going to grab some Tapcons and try it out on another part of the basement before we go through the hassle of removing the panel.
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431 Posts
I had no problems popping a 4" tapcon through 2" of polyiso to mount my box firmly. Tapcons require 1" of grab, I believe.
I just got back from my buddy's house who had his basement finished 2 years ago. His panel is located in the laundry room which is a conditioned space. The panel is attached to 1" plywood that is attached to 2x6s perpendicular to the poured foundation. The contractor who finished his basement built a closet about 8 feet wide around the panel which also includes plumbing for the washer and drier. Other than the rim joist, there is no insulation anywhere. From what I can tell, there have never been any moisture problems and there is no mold.
I am not saying this setup is right or wrong, I'm just making an observation.
I am not saying this setup is right or wrong, I'm just making an observation.
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