BASement HELP!

3336 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by stadry, Jan 12, 2013

ItsaDucati2012

Discussion Starter · Jan 6, 2013

Hey guys I need all the help I can get

So I had to replace the the water heater yesterday.... i did it so that incase it pours outr water it goes into the pan and drains into the french drains.

I have the whole basement ripped apart, I took down all the ugly wall panels. I removed the 30yr old carpet
And what I saw was white powdery lime Which from what I know are the minerals which are coming up from the concrete floor and/or wall.

They had used 1x6 to hold up the panel walls against the concrete block wall.

well I was thinking I would get another set of 1x6 and put them over the existing 1x6 which then would be better for me to insert some insulation behind the drywall. ??

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=202389995&R=202389995

this way I can also purchase new wall sockets for the electric they had 1in sockets which i never seen before..

another issue "french drains" the edge of the slabs in some areas were cracked and broken off so i decided to clean them up and get ready to fix up those areas what do you guys recomend for the type cement ??

I just posted some pics take a look see what you guys would do I know alot of your are builders out there.
Also what can I use to to put on that hot water baseboard piping for insulation?
let me know guys thank you !!

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joecaption

· #2 · Jan 6, 2013

You have unpressure treated wood in direct contact with the concrete which is a big no no.
It would be far better to get rid of all of that and build a real 2 X 4 wall away from the foundation and fire block the top of the wall,
Then you would have room for the wiring, more insulation.

Reactions: 1

ItsaDucati2012

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 6, 2013

what I dont like is that i dont want to drill into the concrete blocks to hold up those 2x4s its the worst thing to do since it will cause cracks. so basically i need to first put the 2x 4s up against the ceiling and then in the slab then put in the 2x4s against the wall.

but heres my main question.... the pipe which you see is for the baseboard hot water. now this means i need to bring out that piping for the new added wall.... it runs allong the side of the basement left hand side of the wall

also the edge of slabs are broken off what type of cement do I use to fix those edges

ItsaDucati2012

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 7, 2013

Anyone ??? Care to help out on this

12penny

· #5 · Jan 7, 2013

ItsaDucati2012 said:
what I dont like is that i dont want to drill into the concrete blocks to hold up those 2x4s its the worst thing to do since it will cause cracks. so basically i need to first put the 2x 4s up against the ceiling and then in the slab then put in the 2x4s against the wall.

What Joe was suggesting was to build a new 2x4 wall 2 1/2" or so from the block. That will allow for up to 2" of xps against the block. Be sure to use pressure trated lumber for the bottom plate. Top plate gets nailed to the ceiling joists.

but heres my main question.... the pipe which you see is for the baseboard hot water. now this means i need to bring out that piping for the new added wall.... it runs allong the side of the basement left hand side of the wall

Yep, probably need to move it. Can be done diy or hire a local plumber.

also the edge of slabs are broken off what type of cement do I use to fix those edges

You dont. You use concrete. Whatever brand the homecenter sells is fine. I'd put some crushed stone over the drain first.

Trucon01

· #6 · Jan 7, 2013

If its any consolation, I've been doing the same thing for about a year. Feel free to browse my thread, the link is in the signature. I had 1x firring strips with panel, electrical boxes in the concrete block, adding a french drain, the works. Good luck.

ItsaDucati2012

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 11, 2013

I removed the 1x6 strips on off the walls
Now I framed out the edges of the slab which were broken/cracked behind/under carpet & panel.
Im going to use Rapid Set Concrete Mix . ( is that okay to use??? ) I dont want the floor to crack again on those edges where the french drains are when im drilling and nailing in the 2x4s into the ground. (im going to reconstruct the edges which broke off ). so that french drains passage ways are clean and open.
2 coats of AMES BLUE MAX on concrete block walls.
1 primer AMES with COAT of AMES BLUE MAX on slab floor

Also going to Use PL500 landscape for the 2x4s on the ground slab concrete when im nailing them in.
how did you use the XPS FOAM boards??? did you cut them can you get them in bulk ???this stuff is expensive.

12penny

· #8 · Jan 11, 2013

Good...furring strips gone.
Rapid set isn't necessary. Might want to use a concrete primer
to achieve a good bond. Honestly though I don't think I'd try to fix
that. I think I'd just move my wall out to get good bearing.
Never used Ames Blue Max so I have no comment on that.
I buy xps in sheets 2'x 8' with t&g edges. Glue to the wall with and
approved adhesive, then tape seams with Tyvek tape. Home center
should have it all. I usually use Dow be because I get a good
price on it.

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stadry

· #9 · Jan 11, 2013

ames makes a decent product but, like most materials, it will fail if used incorrectly,,, ANY moisture is coming thru the bsmt wall's blocks,,, a wtrproof coating traps that moisture unless it reaches a dew point & drops down into the trench under the floor,,, didn't see any sign ( Miradrain 5" above final floor elevation ) blocks' cells/webs had been drilled for drainage,,, what'll happen is the moisture's acid-content ( picked up from soil salts ) eventually' eats 'the blocks

more damage where its often more wet

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12penny

· #10 · Jan 11, 2013

Never done any work on a wet basement. Damp yes, wet
no. Never made sense to me to stop the water on the inside.

ItsaDucati2012

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 11, 2013

12penny said:
Never done any work on a wet basement. Damp yes, wet
no. Never made sense to me to stop the water on the inside.

I c yes, Never had a floor either. but im just doing the most i can do Im not trying to spend $$$$ but I want what should be done right. I have seen many people online use AMES blue max is supposed to be amazing. better than anything you can get at lowes or home depot.

anyways last night i got the Rapid Set Concrete Mix I will do it tonight its the best and strongest mix you can get from what Ive seen contractors use.

Also I was told that the foam stuff is not good for insulation I heard that they will rot away from the wall after the layers have been used on concrete block wall.???

Reactions: 1

12penny

· #12 · Jan 11, 2013 (Edited)

deleted

ItsaDucati2012

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 11, 2013

itsreallyconc said:
ames makes a decent product but, like most materials, it will fail if used incorrectly,,, ANY moisture is coming thru the bsmt wall's blocks,,, a wtrproof coating traps that moisture unless it reaches a dew point & drops down into the trench under the floor,,, didn't see any sign ( Miradrain 5" above final floor elevation ) blocks' cells/webs had been drilled for drainage,,, what'll happen is the moisture's acid-content ( picked up from soil salts ) eventually' eats 'the blocksmore damage where its often more wet

Dont understand what you mean if used incorrectly
you wait for the 1st coat to dry then apply the second coat after 10 days.
i dont have any holes drilled for drainage just the old screws which were stuck in the wall from the 1x6. its just the small gap for the french drains.

what I want to know is why dont I just fill in the gap from the slab to the concrete block wall.. i dont get floods in the area where I am anyway..//
this way i dont have to worry about any moister coming in from anywhere...

12penny

· #14 · Jan 11, 2013 (Edited)

Perhaps if you filled out your profile, complete with location, someone would be able to help with specific questions.

oops...sorry...north jersey.

stadry

· #15 · Jan 12, 2013

the ' strongest ' may not be the correct mtl,,, in this situation, we'd pick a more flexible conc - strong = brittle ( less flexural strength )

agree ames' stuff IS better than what you can buy from the apron/vest stores,,, but that's like saying they sell used rope & you want to be hang'd w/NEW rope :laughing: IF you're trying to stop wtr from the inside of a bsmt, you're ****ing up a rope,,, all you'll do is hide the damage for a while

' not trying to spend $$$$ but I want what should be done right ' ? pardon ? ? ?

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