[tylem4815]

Hello, I am in the process of finishing my basement and have some questions about spacing for the floor drain and furnace closet. I have attached some pictures below for reference if that helps.

The back of the wall on the current layout would be 5" from the front of the floor drain. I would like to keep the wall as close to the drain as possible to allow more space coming down the stairs.

To the left of the water softener I will have the wall come off there and need to have room for 2 doors (one for the storage area and one for the bathroom door) The bathroom is where the treadmill is now. The further the wall is out from the drain the less space for the 2 doors on the left adjoining wall for the storage area and bathroom.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[tylem4815]

see updated pictures. would this layout work okay? There would be enough room for 2 30" doors (one for storage area and another for the bathroom) Also is this enough room for the sub panel where it is at? Roughly 3ft x 3ft of unobstructed area in front of it. (centered) about a 1 1/2 on either side of panel)

 

[Nealtw]

I would go right up to the drain, you will be putting a double door to the furnace for access straight out the front.



BTW if you are not building exterior walls in the furnace room solid block the walls on each side. Warm air from that room is bad news behind the other exterior walls.

 

[Nealtw]

If this wall is not exterior you could just strap it with 2x4s and bump out for the furnace.

 

[tylem4815]

I would go right up to the drain, you will be putting a double door to the furnace for access straight out the front.



BTW if you are not building exterior walls in the furnace room solid block the walls on each side. Warm air from that room is bad news behind the other exterior walls.

Thanks I guess im not following you on this though. The wall behind the furnace is an exterior wall (although it doesn't extend up past the basement as the garage floor is on the other side level with the first floor of the house) The wall where I will put my doors will be wood (pressure treated on the floor and regular wood studs for the framing. Your saying to put a block wall behind the wood framed wall or where exactly?

Not saying its done right but all the homes that have been finished in our area (new homes) have just a regular wood framed wall in front of the furnace. I plan to add a return above the double doors and also one on the end of the wall (where the concrete wall extends to allow airflow through there. We will also be adding a couple more air vents in the basement as well.

I like the idea of going off the bump out on the wall only problem is we have a very low area where plumbing is base the concrete wall. I know we will lose some hallway space but I think this will allow a higher ceiling and easier to make the bulkhead in the ceiling.

What about the shower drain. How far does that need to be from a wood framed wall? Does it look like it would be far enough away in the pictures?

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks I guess im not following you on this though. The wall behind the furnace is an exterior wall (although it doesn't extend up past the basement as the garage floor is on the other side level with the first floor of the house) The wall where I will put my doors will be wood (pressure treated on the floor and regular wood studs for the framing. Your saying to put a block wall behind the wood framed wall or where exactly?

Not saying its done right but all the homes that have been finished in our area (new homes) have just a regular wood framed wall in front of the furnace. I plan to add a return above the double doors and also one on the end of the wall (where the concrete wall extends to allow airflow through there. We will also be adding a couple more air vents in the basement as well.

I like the idea of going off the bump out on the wall only problem is we have a very low area where plumbing is base the concrete wall. I know we will lose some hallway space but I think this will allow a higher ceiling and easier to make the bulkhead in the ceiling.

What about the shower drain. How far does that need to be from a wood framed wall? Does it look like it would be far enough away in the pictures?

I will try this again. :wink2: You have built some outside walls with a space between the wall and the foundation. If that wall stops like at the furnace room, the end of that wall wants to be sealed to the foundation so you have no air leak from any room into the space behind the wall.



I don't see a shower drain. I see a vent near the wall?

 

[tylem4815]

I will try this again. :wink2: You have built some outside walls with a space between the wall and the foundation. If that wall stops like at the furnace room, the end of that wall wants to be sealed to the foundation so you have no air leak from any room into the space behind the wall.



I don't see a shower drain. I see a vent near the wall?

All of the walls I have built will be interior walls (there is concrete foundation all along the outside of the room. (I can take more pics if that helps) that concrete wall that extends off the furnace is not an exterior wall. I can take some more pictures if that helps.

The shower drain is to the left of the treadmill (black cover on the floor). Does that help?

 

[Nealtw]

All of the walls I have built will be interior walls (there is concrete foundation all along the outside of the room. (I can take more pics if that helps) that concrete wall that extends off the furnace is not an exterior wall. I can take some more pictures if that helps.

The shower drain is to the left of the treadmill (black cover on the floor). Does that help?

I know the wall you are building around the foundation, that wall stops somewhere? It has to be sealed so basement air can not get behind the wall.


If you are building you own show base you could likely make anything work.
Tap the concrete around that pipe. Here they put a foam block around it so it is easy to chip a thin layer away and remove the foam if you need to move it a bit.

 

[tylem4815]

See attached pictures. Does that help?

 

[Nealtw]

See attached pictures. Does that help?

Yes, If air will be able to circulate from the furnace room all the way around to that out side wall, your drill is pointing at the spot where the mold will start.

The end of the your wall needs to be sealed where it runs into that interior concrete wall.

Add another 2x4 tight to the concrete with a weather strip between the wood and concrete and block the sill areas top and bottom too.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...-Auto-and-Marine-Weatherstrip-01033/100175299

 

[Nealtw]

See attached pictures. Does that help?

You might try an angled door to give you more room.

For a 30 inch door each wall would like to be 38" long,a 32" hole and 2 studs on each side. That 3" of 2 studs gives you the needed room for trim around the door.



We have put in 24" bathroom doors, they come in 24,26,28 if you have to.

 

[tylem4815]

You might try an angled door to give you more room.

For a 30 inch door each wall would like to be 38" long,a 32" hole and 2 studs on each side. That 3" of 2 studs gives you the needed room for trim around the door.



We have put in 24" bathroom doors, they come in 24,26,28 if you have to.

Thanks I am just worried about the door for the storage area not passing code on the sub panel access. Theres roughly 33" on both areas either side of the 2x4 so i think 30" openings would be okay and they would just open into that same wall? Im i missing something

 

[tylem4815]

Yes, If air will be able to circulate from the furnace room all the way around to that out side wall, your drill is pointing at the spot where the mold will start.

The end of the your wall needs to be sealed where it runs into that interior concrete wall.

Add another 2x4 tight to the concrete with a weather strip between the wood and concrete and block the sill areas top and bottom too.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Bui...-Auto-and-Marine-Weatherstrip-01033/100175299

okay thank you. I will seal this area off and then above it as well.

 

[Nealtw]

okay thank you. I will seal this area off and then above it as well.

The whole Idea is to have no air getting back there anywhere that you can block it.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks I am just worried about the door for the storage area not passing code on the sub panel access. Theres roughly 33" on both areas either side of the 2x4 so i think 30" openings would be okay and they would just open into that same wall? Im i missing something

I think you need 30" total and I would be surprised if being behind the door was a problem.
Maybe a question in the electrical forum would confirm that.
I would like to see the door at 90* to the panel.

 

[huesmann]

I sure hope you're gonna have a wide-ass door or doors in front of the MEP equipment.

It looks like the breaker box needs 36" of clearance in front, 30" across the face of the panel, and I think 78" clear above the floor.

 

[tylem4815]

I sure hope you're gonna have a wide-ass door or doors in front of the MEP equipment.

It looks like the breaker box needs 36" of clearance in front, 30" across the face of the panel, and I think 78" clear above the floor.

Thank you. There will be 2 36” double doors in front of the hvac, water heater, etc.

There is more than 36” In front of the panel and the panel is centered between 3ft of space. It’s on a stairwell wall so it’s 9ft high. So hopefully good there.

 

[huesmann]

Do you have enough space in front of the doors for them to swing open?

 

[tylem4815]

Do you have enough space in front of the doors for them to swing open?

Yes there’s about 87 inches from the stairwell to the doors when they are closed. Each door is 36” so plenty of room.